HioCrew LBO LS1 hits the rollers: 371rwhp stock cam and heads
#63
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
It would be dirt simple if you had the maual tracks mm
Hell they can go into the 31xx range with stock k, control arms, hood, full interior, full hvac system ect.
Just gotta pay attention to what your doin, choose parts wisely and don't weigh it down with sub frame connectors, iron blocks, engine covers, strut tower braces, heavier than stock wheels and strut tower braces.
Hell they can go into the 31xx range with stock k, control arms, hood, full interior, full hvac system ect.
Just gotta pay attention to what your doin, choose parts wisely and don't weigh it down with sub frame connectors, iron blocks, engine covers, strut tower braces, heavier than stock wheels and strut tower braces.
More curious if you have ever done any testing on LS6 intake vs FAST. Not relevant to most people but very much so for me. Really the only things I have left to do would be that, 241 heads, and the superseded L92 valve springs that are legal. At the point where 5-10 whp matters and is worth doing as long as it won't sacrifice anything down at 2500-3000rpm.
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; 10-27-2017 at 12:06 PM.
#65
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iTrader: (57)
I've paid attention over the years to "some of these guys". There is a lot of weight to be found (and taken out)! I have removed 451# in my heavy *** T/A. She now sits at 3152 with new 8pt CM cage, S60, and iron 6.0... I know where #40 more is to remove, so should be ~3112 before any wallet reduction mods!
#67
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I've paid attention over the years to "some of these guys". There is a lot of weight to be found (and taken out)! I have removed 451# in my heavy *** T/A. She now sits at 3152 with new 8pt CM cage, S60, and iron 6.0... I know where #40 more is to remove, so should be ~3112 before any wallet reduction mods!
Weight with all accessories and a full tank of gas is just a hair over 2600 lbs.
#68
TECH Veteran
If HIo wrote a book on how to "put your F body on a diet" I'll make sure I'll get 3 copies.
#69
11 Second Club
12.19 at 114.2 mph is my best so far on a 1.82 60', had a helluva head wind at the track(20-30mph) that probably costed me 2mph. Ive been faster in the 1/4 at 115.6 MPH and have had a better 60' with a 1.76...still working on my foot work and had a brand new set of ET street bias that where sticking quite well. Will see what next year brings.
https://youtu.be/a456Fx90oEU
https://youtu.be/a456Fx90oEU
#70
TECH Senior Member
#71
TECH Veteran
#72
Haven't weighed since then and that trucking scale I weighed at last is torn down now. I double checked it for accuracy before and it displayed my body weight accurately. My 91 ef hatchback cx civic weighed 1960 lbs there so I believe it's accurate enough.
#74
TECH Veteran
Do you plan on going heads and cam next year ?
#75
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
nope, next major modification will be a 9", i have a few small things planned for next year aswell as some minor upgrades to the T56. I have a mild cam i got from a member but no imediate plans to use. Wanna see how far we can get into the 11s stock cam and heads. Also building a house next year so that will be tying up my time and money.
#76
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nope, next major modification will be a 9", i have a few small things planned for next year aswell as some minor upgrades to the T56. I have a mild cam i got from a member but no imediate plans to use. Wanna see how far we can get into the 11s stock cam and heads. Also building a house next year so that will be tying up my time and money.
#78
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
I bet you get there. You're already killing it considering the mods.
I had a 2000 SS full weight hard top. ZERO weight reduction besides the spare tire and jack being out of it. It also had an amp in it but the sub box was out of it at the time
Lid, LS6 intake, Hooker headers, Lanes true duals, Yank SS 3800, 3.73 rear gears 10 bolt. 1.68 60ft 12.303 PB
The PB came on 28" slicks, every other time I was out on 315/35r17 drag radials, I figured the extra height would hurt the 60 a tad, but it picked up everywhere. It also had grand sport replica wheels on the front. I was never a hard core strip guy so I don't remember the exact temp, mph, DA etc.
Congrats on the bad *** numbers, dyno and track.
Just watched your video and it looks good. I'm not sure how you're launching it/slipping the clutch but I have an idea that may help you launch hard and not pop the rear, if you haven't tried this yet. So preloading the rear is most important... maybe hold the clutch right to where it starts to engage and wants to barely push the car, engage the park brake one or two clicks to hold the car then rev it hard and snap off the clutch from that point. Doing that will keep the driveline from slamming together from no preload to hammer, and you could hold your hand on the e brake and as you drop the clutch drop the brake and reach over and grab second. I always figured that's the way I would do it if I had a 6 speed and a 10 bolt. I've thought of this a lot lol. Plus coming from lower down in the clutch throw up into the slip without full engagement would seem much harder than trying to let it just go an inch or so.
I had a 2000 SS full weight hard top. ZERO weight reduction besides the spare tire and jack being out of it. It also had an amp in it but the sub box was out of it at the time
Lid, LS6 intake, Hooker headers, Lanes true duals, Yank SS 3800, 3.73 rear gears 10 bolt. 1.68 60ft 12.303 PB
The PB came on 28" slicks, every other time I was out on 315/35r17 drag radials, I figured the extra height would hurt the 60 a tad, but it picked up everywhere. It also had grand sport replica wheels on the front. I was never a hard core strip guy so I don't remember the exact temp, mph, DA etc.
Congrats on the bad *** numbers, dyno and track.
Just watched your video and it looks good. I'm not sure how you're launching it/slipping the clutch but I have an idea that may help you launch hard and not pop the rear, if you haven't tried this yet. So preloading the rear is most important... maybe hold the clutch right to where it starts to engage and wants to barely push the car, engage the park brake one or two clicks to hold the car then rev it hard and snap off the clutch from that point. Doing that will keep the driveline from slamming together from no preload to hammer, and you could hold your hand on the e brake and as you drop the clutch drop the brake and reach over and grab second. I always figured that's the way I would do it if I had a 6 speed and a 10 bolt. I've thought of this a lot lol. Plus coming from lower down in the clutch throw up into the slip without full engagement would seem much harder than trying to let it just go an inch or so.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 11-03-2017 at 02:29 PM.
#79
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Just watched your video and it looks good. I'm not sure how you're launching it/slipping the clutch but I have an idea that may help you launch hard and not pop the rear, if you haven't tried this yet. So preloading the rear is most important... maybe hold the clutch right to where it starts to engage and wants to barely push the car, engage the park brake one or two clicks to hold the car then rev it hard and snap off the clutch from that point. Doing that will keep the driveline from slamming together from no preload to hammer, and you could hold your hand on the e brake and as you drop the clutch drop the brake and reach over and grab second. I always figured that's the way I would do it if I had a 6 speed and a 10 bolt. I've thought of this a lot lol. Plus coming from lower down in the clutch throw up into the slip without full engagement would seem much harder than trying to let it just go an inch or so.
#80
7 Second Club