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It would be dirt simple if you had the maual tracks mm
Hell they can go into the 31xx range with stock k, control arms, hood, full interior, full hvac system ect.
Just gotta pay attention to what your doin, choose parts wisely and don't weigh it down with sub frame connectors, iron blocks, engine covers, strut tower braces, heavier than stock wheels and strut tower braces.
Easy peasy to hit. Mine is 3180 with a full tank of fuel and square 18x12s, and MWC subframe connectors (biggest piece of **** on the car though). AC and radio are gone but other than that it's a full interior car. All the bumper supports etc intact...
More curious if you have ever done any testing on LS6 intake vs FAST. Not relevant to most people but very much so for me. Really the only things I have left to do would be that, 241 heads, and the superseded L92 valve springs that are legal. At the point where 5-10 whp matters and is worth doing as long as it won't sacrifice anything down at 2500-3000rpm.
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; 10-27-2017 at 12:06 PM.
I've paid attention over the years to "some of these guys". There is a lot of weight to be found (and taken out)! I have removed 451# in my heavy *** T/A. She now sits at 3152 with new 8pt CM cage, S60, and iron 6.0... I know where #40 more is to remove, so should be ~3112 before any wallet reduction mods!
I've paid attention over the years to "some of these guys". There is a lot of weight to be found (and taken out)! I have removed 451# in my heavy *** T/A. She now sits at 3152 with new 8pt CM cage, S60, and iron 6.0... I know where #40 more is to remove, so should be ~3112 before any wallet reduction mods!
I took the extreme weight loss path and swapped the engine & transmission from a 2000 Z28 into a Miata.
Weight with all accessories and a full tank of gas is just a hair over 2600 lbs.
12.19 at 114.2 mph is my best so far on a 1.82 60', had a helluva head wind at the track(20-30mph) that probably costed me 2mph. Ive been faster in the 1/4 at 115.6 MPH and have had a better 60' with a 1.76...still working on my foot work and had a brand new set of ET street bias that where sticking quite well. Will see what next year brings.
Nathans lq9/th350 swapped one was 3070. Full interior with heat no ac on a drag pack.
I was 3064 lbs (1990 notchback mustang): th400, lq4, full interior, cd player and 4 speakers, power seats, dual x piped mild steel exhaust with flowmaster super 40 mufflers and tips to the bumper, exhaust manifolds, aje kmember, stock coil springs and a-arms, 16" pony wheels with 235s up front and 245s rear, stock heater still functional as well as the wipers. No AC. Stock 5.0 rad. Subframe connectors. Only weight removal was spare tire and jack.
Haven't weighed since then and that trucking scale I weighed at last is torn down now. I double checked it for accuracy before and it displayed my body weight accurately. My 91 ef hatchback cx civic weighed 1960 lbs there so I believe it's accurate enough.
nope, next major modification will be a 9", i have a few small things planned for next year aswell as some minor upgrades to the T56. I have a mild cam i got from a member but no imediate plans to use. Wanna see how far we can get into the 11s stock cam and heads. Also building a house next year so that will be tying up my time and money.
nope, next major modification will be a 9", i have a few small things planned for next year aswell as some minor upgrades to the T56. I have a mild cam i got from a member but no imediate plans to use. Wanna see how far we can get into the 11s stock cam and heads. Also building a house next year so that will be tying up my time and money.
good mod. Gives you lots of gearing flexibility and no worries about the glass jaw breaking at launch
I bet you get there. You're already killing it considering the mods.
I had a 2000 SS full weight hard top. ZERO weight reduction besides the spare tire and jack being out of it. It also had an amp in it but the sub box was out of it at the time
The PB came on 28" slicks, every other time I was out on 315/35r17 drag radials, I figured the extra height would hurt the 60 a tad, but it picked up everywhere. It also had grand sport replica wheels on the front. I was never a hard core strip guy so I don't remember the exact temp, mph, DA etc.
Congrats on the bad *** numbers, dyno and track.
Just watched your video and it looks good. I'm not sure how you're launching it/slipping the clutch but I have an idea that may help you launch hard and not pop the rear, if you haven't tried this yet. So preloading the rear is most important... maybe hold the clutch right to where it starts to engage and wants to barely push the car, engage the park brake one or two clicks to hold the car then rev it hard and snap off the clutch from that point. Doing that will keep the driveline from slamming together from no preload to hammer, and you could hold your hand on the e brake and as you drop the clutch drop the brake and reach over and grab second. I always figured that's the way I would do it if I had a 6 speed and a 10 bolt. I've thought of this a lot lol. Plus coming from lower down in the clutch throw up into the slip without full engagement would seem much harder than trying to let it just go an inch or so.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 11-03-2017 at 02:29 PM.
Just watched your video and it looks good. I'm not sure how you're launching it/slipping the clutch but I have an idea that may help you launch hard and not pop the rear, if you haven't tried this yet. So preloading the rear is most important... maybe hold the clutch right to where it starts to engage and wants to barely push the car, engage the park brake one or two clicks to hold the car then rev it hard and snap off the clutch from that point. Doing that will keep the driveline from slamming together from no preload to hammer, and you could hold your hand on the e brake and as you drop the clutch drop the brake and reach over and grab second. I always figured that's the way I would do it if I had a 6 speed and a 10 bolt. I've thought of this a lot lol. Plus coming from lower down in the clutch throw up into the slip without full engagement would seem much harder than trying to let it just go an inch or so.
I do some of the things you mention, but use a line lock and a 2step i set up on HPT out of the hole. I ease up on the clutch just till I fell it start to feel it load up the drive line, the hard part is taming your excitment and left foot and try to roll off the clutch to prevent a bog but slip it fast enough to make a decent 60', looking into a clutch tamer for next year.
10-27-2017, 12:00 PM
