What's with all the low Dyno Numbers Lately?!?!
#41
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Its the forum that does it to you. THink about it this way. Those with 400whp cars probably wont see many other cars that fast anywhere else but an internet forum where EVERYONE DROPS thousands on their cars. My 400whp cam car scares people that arent "forum" people. You guys would be amazed how many h/c cars i run into on the streets that dont sound fast, get 13's, and are HAPPY ABOUT IT... WHen you surround yourself with 450+whp cars all day (Freaks imo) its easy to let anything realistic seem dissapointing.
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Originally Posted by SSactionLs1
Its the forum that does it to you. THink about it this way. Those with 400whp cars probably wont see many other cars that fast anywhere else but an internet forum where EVERYONE DROPS thousands on their cars. My 400whp cam car scares people that arent "forum" people. You guys would be amazed how many h/c cars i run into on the streets that dont sound fast, get 13's, and are HAPPY ABOUT IT... WHen you surround yourself with 450+whp cars all day (Freaks imo) its easy to let anything realistic seem dissapointing.
#45
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"and your convertor would actually hurt you in a race on the street from a roll vs a viper because they rob top end power"
You obviously haven't driven many 4000+ stalled LS1s. A PT4200 makes for one helluva mean "from a roll" machine, for example. The stock converter absolutely BLOWS for highway races.
You obviously haven't driven many 4000+ stalled LS1s. A PT4200 makes for one helluva mean "from a roll" machine, for example. The stock converter absolutely BLOWS for highway races.
#46
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I'm happy with my #'s. I'm in the ballpark with everyone else. TSP just redid my horrible tune from a shop that will go nameless. I'm sure my #'s might even improve. But to me I could care less about another 2 rwhp or so, as long as it has a safe tune is what matters to me.
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Originally Posted by Linear Velocity
But to go fast at the track you don't necessarily need high HP numbers. Like said before good track times are more indicative of a complete setup. Suspension, gearing, weight, track prep, DA are all thing other than HP that will help you run fast at the track. "take it to the track" also doesn't apply to everyone because not everyone here is a drag racer; and your convertor would actually hurt you in a race on the street from a roll vs a viper because they rob top end power
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I think we need a "Where are all the high dyno cars" thread. It will be a much shorter thread. Has anybody reproduced any of the numbers from these shop cars? I would love another shop to turn around a say if you get the same parts as this person that we just setup you will make within a %5 margin the same power or your money back.
That would be fun.
That would be fun.
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Originally Posted by Mike98WS6
I'm happy with my #'s. I'm in the ballpark with everyone else. TSP just redid my horrible tune from a shop that will go nameless. I'm sure my #'s might even improve. But to me I could care less about another 2 rwhp or so, as long as it has a safe tune is what matters to me.
Uh, going by your sig. are you saying vette docs. did a crappy tune on your car? Im not taking sides here, im just curious. Did you do a dyno before and after the tune or are you complaining about drivability issues.
#50
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Originally Posted by 9T9BlueTA
I think we need a "Where are all the high dyno cars" thread. It will be a much shorter thread. Has anybody reproduced any of the numbers from these shop cars? I would love another shop to turn around a say if you get the same parts as this person that we just setup you will make within a %5 margin the same power or your money back.
That would be fun.
That would be fun.
#52
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All the low numbers are because JPR isnt on here clouding everyones mind by posting 490 rwhp stock shortblock pump gas numbers. Look where he's at now...up and vanished like a fart in the wind.
Also, regardless of SAE correction, temps do play a part (small in some cases, larger in others) in dyno numbers. The motors heat soak faster and the intake temps are warmer due to that. With hotter air, you cant run as much timing without KR and you subsequently get lower numbers. Summer fuels are also blended differently.
Also, regardless of SAE correction, temps do play a part (small in some cases, larger in others) in dyno numbers. The motors heat soak faster and the intake temps are warmer due to that. With hotter air, you cant run as much timing without KR and you subsequently get lower numbers. Summer fuels are also blended differently.
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Originally Posted by mike m
Uh, going by your sig. are you saying vette docs. did a crappy tune on your car? Im not taking sides here, im just curious. Did you do a dyno before and after the tune or are you complaining about drivability issues.
#54
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Originally Posted by Mike98WS6
TSP redid my tune. Everything was WAY off. The car runs MUCH better now. I hav not redyno'ed it yet. Thanks to the guys at TSP. You guys know ur stuff!
#55
I have one of those low dynoing, underperforming heads/cam cars. I believe it is the quality of parts has actually gotten worse on the mid priced parts, the lower priced stuff isn't worth it, and the better performing parts have gotten even more expensive. I also think that some of it is that the Internet masses are more aware od "dyno tricks", and less subject to the wow factor, therefore less people are doing them. Just my opinion.
#56
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Originally Posted by 98_1LE
I have one of those low dynoing, underperforming heads/cam cars. I believe it is the quality of parts has actually gotten worse on the mid priced parts, the lower priced stuff isn't worth it, and the better performing parts have gotten even more expensive. I also think that some of it is that the Internet masses are more aware od "dyno tricks", and less subject to the wow factor, therefore less people are doing them. Just my opinion.
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Originally Posted by dug
You gotta compare everything to your baseline. Its the improvements that count. When you start comparing your numbers to everyone else on the internet it will drive you nuts.
We own a very small dyno shop with a mustang md250 dyno. My A4 Z28 dynoed 422 with a 224/224 581/581 cam and stage 1.5 heads. BUT this number is for reference purposes only!! What is important (for example) is that when I went from Mac midlengths to Dynatech LT's I picked up 14 hp. Aftermarket parts are designed to make YOUR car faster, not to make your car run like someone elses.
Shop cars are not representative of what the average car can do. They are the test mules, models or prototypes of what can be done. The numbers are big on them because the set up is tested over and over again to make sure it is at its optimum.
There are always going to be cars out there that are way out on the high side of the curve. I dont think that there are fewer high dyno cars, I just think that the big numbers are still coming from the same few shops or individuals that have the time, money, experience and equipment to build thier cars out to the ragged edge of what a ls1 can do.
I say give those guys some props for testing the parts, risking their motors and pushing the envelope so that the rest of us can follow along.
#59
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jebus..when the hell did 400 rwhp become a "disappointment". ****, if i got heads and a cam, if i got 400 with a tune id be happy. i'd shoot for 410rwhp, but id be happy with 400. Maybe im just simple. Or maybe its the nitrous getting to my head..i dunno
But seriously...im sure there are many factors, particularly weather and I think a part of it is finally some reputable shops are dynoing our cars and they aren't inflating the numbers to get more sales...besides, if 400 rwhp isn't enough for ya, spray it and quit your bitchin'
But seriously...im sure there are many factors, particularly weather and I think a part of it is finally some reputable shops are dynoing our cars and they aren't inflating the numbers to get more sales...besides, if 400 rwhp isn't enough for ya, spray it and quit your bitchin'
#60
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You can probably tell if your setup is working ok as long as it is peaking correctly, i.e has no valvetrain issues, is not sputtering, has good a/f, etc. I think it is possible to get the shop car #s but you have to pull out all the stops and get every damn mod imaginable and get a super aggresive tune w race gas.
**** my JPR setup put down 437 hp down here in Fl and those heads are freaking horrible (270 cfm at .700 if I remember correctly), my cam was huge though and my tune was aggressive as hell. Running like this my car lasted a whole 2k miles.
Moral to the story is
Be happy with a little less hp and a reliable setup and don't waste the cash trying to duplicate the shop #'s.
Now if only I could take my own advice
**** my JPR setup put down 437 hp down here in Fl and those heads are freaking horrible (270 cfm at .700 if I remember correctly), my cam was huge though and my tune was aggressive as hell. Running like this my car lasted a whole 2k miles.
Moral to the story is
Be happy with a little less hp and a reliable setup and don't waste the cash trying to duplicate the shop #'s.
Now if only I could take my own advice