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We made some changes to one of the Z06’s we run at the Texas Mile when we had a tire failure on the dyno at 200mph. We weren’t doing full pulls so we didn’t have the dyno video camera on. This is why we make everyone clear out the dyno room when we dyno high Hp or higher mph vehicles. The tire blew out on the second run of the day after the run was over and the car was slowing down already. It threw parts 20+ft out the shop in both directions. When the tire blew the car did not move any on the dyno. Taking the time to strap a car correctly pays off especially in an emergency. We race in 3 weeks if we can get the parts to fix it. It needs passenger rear fender, rocker panel, rear bumper, passenger wheel well, some re-wiring and intercooler lines.
There is another Vette on a dyno I seen a video of about a week ago that exploded as well. It was a white one. Not sure what shop this was, but what is causing the tire to disintegrate like that?
Anything that makes 1k+ should be on a hub dyno anyway. Even if the tires dont blow out, they're trash after one dyno pull.
Thats not exactly accurate. We dyno a lot of of 1,000+hp cars and if they are strapped correctly and they dont spin there is very little tire wear. If the car spins or is trying to spin the dyno can wear out some tires quick. Alot of it technique on how you dyno and making sure you have enough drum speed before going full power.
A hub dyno is a better choice for higher hp cars (1500+) or race cars with big slicks, I agree with that. We actually started getting quotes for hub dyno a couple weeks ago.
Thats not exactly accurate. We dyno a lot of of 1,000+hp cars and if they are strapped correctly and they dont spin there is very little tire wear. If the car spins or is trying to spin the dyno can wear out some tires quick. Alot of it technique on how you dyno and making sure you have enough drum speed before going full power.
A hub dyno is a better choice for higher hp cars (1500+) or race cars with big slicks, I agree with that. We actually started getting quotes for hub dyno a couple weeks ago.
Very little tire wear? I encourage you to put your hand on the sidewall of any car with 1k+ horsepower after a dyno run and after you burn your hand, get back to me on "tire wear". It degrades the sidewalls, not the tread. There's a reason EVERY manufacturer tells you not to do it, and this is it.
Doing a burnout or going down the track gets tires hot also. On the higher hp stuff we usually swap tires very often and dyno on a set that we arent going to race on.
This is why most shops won't dyno cars in a gear that spins higher then 160. When a car is strapped down to a dyno it makes the tires hotter because of no air flow around the tires to aid in cooling. Use a heat gun and compare the difference if you get the time.
Just like racing you increase power til you start breaking stuff, figure out why, solve it and carry on. The end results of failure scale up on the scary factor right along with the increases in HP. Stay safe all
We have ran the same car to 230 mph multiple times and the other mile Z06 to 225 multiple times. We monitor temps closely and let the cars and tires cool down between runs. We were going to put new tires on after we got done on the dyno before the mile, looks like we should have done it before. Hopefully today or tomorrow its going back on the dyno and then to the paint shop so we can make the mile in 3 weeks.
These things happen if you do it enough. Glad there were no injuries to people or pets!
I agree. Been almost twenty years of dyno'ing cars and my first blow out.
Had car back on dyno Friday and everything went smooth. I ran the car to 165mph at 1300rwhp and could hold my hand on the rear tires. I didnt even bother to shoot them with temp gun being that cool. I'll turn it up some more at the mile. Car is at the body shop now and we will be running it at the Texas Mile in a couple weeks.
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Blow Out On Dyno at 200mph 
