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Got my new results in for a street strip 402 I put together in a small garage. Built it with a small shot in mind, pump gas and easy to cruise around. Hopefully runs 5.70s. and drives home.
402 ci LS2
12:1 compression
Tfs ls3 heads 62cc
Crower stainless rockers w/ bearings
Comp cams solid roller w/ bearings
Manton PRs
Pac 1237x springs
Tick 246/266 111+3 .680 .650
Fast ls3 intake with mid runners ported by ws6store
Nw 102 cable tb
98 PCM
Built 4l60e and a 9" rear
Fti 3800 converter (~4500 flash on Dyno)
Dynod with Hoosier drag radials
Converter unlocked
Dyno comparison is my new setup vs my old setup which was the same shortblock but had a 236/245 112+4 cam, hyd roller, short travels and a Texas speed as cast 225 and 11:1 compression and a msd intake ported by vengeance racing. Everything else mostly the same.
527 @ 140mph vs 474 @ 122mph. New combo unlocked. Old combo was locked. Same Dyno, tire, rear and trans.
What'd you run previously at the strip? Unlocked converter, 9" rear and your tires are sapping a lot of power on the dyno I imagine, but you got all the right stuff to run hard. This a 4th gen?
What'd you run previously at the strip? Unlocked converter, 9" rear and your tires are sapping a lot of power on the dyno I imagine, but you got all the right stuff to run hard. This a 4th gen?
4th gen, I would run usually 11.20s @ 122. 95 degrees outside DA over 3500. Another track is about 6000 DA and I ran an 11.3 @119 once there. Car would go mid to low 6s in the 1/8 on the bottle.
New combo is also about 300lbs lighter vs the last time I ran it as well.
Did you get a chart as well plotting against rpm by chance? Definitely making good power considering the drivetrain and unlocked converter. By my calculcations, I am guessing this thing would be right around 680 or so flywheel assuming about 23% between losses.
Did you get a chart as well plotting against rpm by chance? Definitely making good power considering the drivetrain and unlocked converter. By my calculcations, I am guessing this thing would be right around 680 or so flywheel assuming about 23% between losses.
I did not. The converter is unlocked making torque numbers useless and transmission is setup to shift by mph instead of rpm. Unlocked converter takes about 20 or 30 from Dyno numbers, tires and rear also suck up some power as does the heavy 3" steel driveshaft and 5 pinion planetary trans. Also, air density out here is pretty low so at sea level on an engine Dyno I would guess it makes 680, maybe 700 if I'm lucky. Currently it's set to shift at around 7500ish rpms. (Don't remember the mph I'll check later) and converter flashes to around 4500.
I did not. The converter is unlocked making torque numbers useless and transmission is setup to shift by mph instead of rpm. Unlocked converter takes about 20 or 30 from Dyno numbers, tires and rear also suck up some power as does the heavy 3" steel driveshaft and 5 pinion planetary trans. Also, air density out here is pretty low so at sea level on an engine Dyno I would guess it makes 680, maybe 700 if I'm lucky. Currently it's set to shift at around 7500ish rpms. (Don't remember the mph I'll check later) and converter flashes to around 4500.
Can't wait to see you get it out to the track and get some passes!
Can't wait to see you get it out to the track and get some passes!
Hopefully soon. I have to drill the TB more to get iac counts in spec and I converted the brakes to manual strange fronts but they were really bad. I believe I plumbed the lines backwards and plumbed them for street style instead of race and proportioned the rears. I went ahead and replumbed everything rear to rear front to front at the master and proportioned the fronts and added a line lock and bought strange rear brakes too. I was going to put them in this week but my axle offset was 2.75 (stock) and the strange brakes require 2.832. The axle company is machining some spacers for me now so hopefully it will be ready to go in 2 weeks.
Driver size brake offset is 2.83 with the spacer inside the housing. Passenger side is 2.75 with the spacer. Spacers were .14 in thickness. Something is up with that passenger side so I'm just waiting on a spacer to be machined to press between the bearing and axle flange. Dunno why it's off so much, must've been off by a quarter inch with factory brakes. Guess factory brakes had more clearance?
I wonder if a cathedral would have been better on this. Your new combo is making power, but you changed so much-more compression/solid roller/etc, it's hard to pin point what is working vs what may have been better. I think your old combo was pretty good for what it was. I think it would have been interesting to see the solid roller on a set of a TEA TFS 225's with the ported MSD. I do think the LS3 port is better, but the results show about 99% of the time on the 4.000 bore stuff it's a fight to make it work all the way. Look at Johnny Stock's SBE LS3 build. 600whp, less cubes, less compression, less cam but had a manual trans/light flywheel. I'm just guessing, but I think if it was apples/apples on the two builds, I would guess there is 50whp or so difference in the drivetrain. Dynos are different too, so that's always a factor. What headers/exhaust are on yours? I keep seeing the bigger 2in headers w/3.5 collectors becoming the crossover point on the wow builds, especially on strokers.
I wonder if a cathedral would have been better on this. Your new combo is making power, but you changed so much-more compression/solid roller/etc, it's hard to pin point what is working vs what may have been better. I think your old combo was pretty good for what it was. I think it would have been interesting to see the solid roller on a set of a TEA TFS 225's with the ported MSD. I do think the LS3 port is better, but the results show about 99% of the time on the 4.000 bore stuff it's a fight to make it work all the way. Look at Johnny Stock's SBE LS3 build. 600whp, less cubes, less compression, less cam but had a manual trans/light flywheel. I'm just guessing, but I think if it was apples/apples on the two builds, I would guess there is 50whp or so difference in the drivetrain. Dynos are different too, so that's always a factor. What headers/exhaust are on yours? I keep seeing the bigger 2in headers w/3.5 collectors becoming the crossover point on the wow builds, especially on strokers.
Link to his build? I'm curious to see more details on it. I think me and b4c's builds are pretty equal all things considered. I have a good bit more compression, realistically the same cam aside from lift and his being solid vs my hydraulic. But with my worked over 220s.
Link to his build? I'm curious to see more details on it. I think me and b4c's builds are pretty equal all things considered. I have a good bit more compression, realistically the same cam aside from lift and his being solid vs my hydraulic. But with my worked over 220s.
This Hammer's, Speedtigger and Helicoil's 416 build are my favorite LS3 builds. Speedtiggers was the only one putting up 700fwhp with a 4.000 bore and his was solid roller/Dart heads/single plane. You gotta have a lot of lift (.700+) to make LS3 heads work the way they should and I think that is why Johnny's worked so well. Hammer's and B4C's here are the only time I have seen a Fast LS3 intake make power. I keep wanting to buy a small bore LS3 head and tweak it to make it perfection a 4.000 bore, but I keep running the numbers and a small bore LS7 Higgins 4.000 head makes more sense. I would love to try the Edelbrock small bore LS3 heads too, but would have to be at the right price point. For an otb box head, for the $$$ the TEA TFS 225 is real tough to beat. I think there is power left in the intake manifold on most cathedral apps, too. Those heads have so much air speed, I don't think you can feed them enough. I think that is why most stroker cathedral motors don't make all the power, not enough intake/cam to support the extra cubes.
Last edited by DualQuadDave; 01-01-2024 at 04:56 PM.
This Hammer's, Speedtigger and Helicoil's 416 build are my favorite LS3 builds. Speedtiggers was the only one putting up 700fwhp with a 4.000 bore and his was solid roller/Dart heads/single plane. You gotta have a lot of lift to make LS3 heads work the way they should and I think that is why Johnny's worked so well. Hammer's B4C's here are the only time I have seen a Fast LS3 intake make power. I keep wanting to buy a s.all bore LS3 head and tweak it to make it perfection a 4.000 bore, but I keep running the numbers and a small bore LS7 Higgins 4.000 head makes more sense. I would love to try the Edelbrock small bore LS3 heads too, but would have to be at the right price point. For an otb box head, for the $$$ the TEA TFS 225 is real tough to beat. I think there is power left in the intake manifold on most cathedral apps, too. Those heads have so much air speed, I don't think you can feed them enough. I think that is why most stroker cathedral motors don't make all the power, not enough intake/can to support the extra cubes.
I'm going to roll with the "220's" on the car for awhile.. But Brian is really pushing me into his new ls3 head. My head/manifold guy is who Brian hired to push these heads into what they are and him and I spoke the other night about them. They're going to be sick. I can't wait to see what my current setup is going to do though.
I'm going to roll with the "220's" on the car for awhile.. But Brian is really pushing me into his new ls3 head. My head/manifold guy is who Brian hired to push these heads into what they are and him and I spoke the other night about them. They're going to be sick. I can't wait to see what my current setup is going to do though.
Canted is the next step, for sure. It changes the whole operation having the valve move away from the wall. I got a deal on a new LSX block on Black Fri so I am building a big bore/L8T crank/LS9 rod build. I am leaning towards tweaked Vic Jr canted valve head for it. Going in the76 Blazer I bought, pro touring/roll/drag/everything build. I am waiting to get the pistons/crank and then I am going to do a build story.
12-18-2023, 03:01 PM
402 ls2 Solid Roller Dyno Results 
