Unusual T/A

You can up the gap on the tr6 up to .042 and run perfect. Maybe most of these guys haven't tried using all the plugs on the street and at the track. The dyno is really under controllable conditions unlike outside weather. I know what worked on my car and over 50 others in our area. Do what you want.

LSs1Power

iTrader: (5)

I have TR6's in my car, but also Im gonna be running 8-9psi of boost

SNAXS

Do you have to be such a dic$?

And no, you dont want to race my car...

Unusual T/A

You're going to need more than 750rwhp. I would be amazed if you could hang with me.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

I dont understand . I look in this section and serched for graphs and everytime someone could give some information ont he graph, yet all I get is some guys fussing about what plugs to use. I mean pluggs dont make you lose 30+ hp, i know that much.

At least one of u could see the numbers are low, several people have said those are ok numbers. The place where i got it dynoed several people even thought those where fairly good numbers for an a4, im like what?


So is there anyone out there you can look at a dyno graph and see a little bit of information about whats going on.

Unusual T/A

YOu still haven't answered the questions. Why haven't you told us if you have knock? What have you done with your maf? Have you checked the pressure on your valve springs? Have you checked your plug wires etc...

LSs1Power

iTrader: (5)

I asked u if u logged the run? It could be false knock retarding timing hence the lose of power. Also the use of stock MAF will help u.

transam02

he has the stock maf!!!!

What would be causing false knock??

We shave his K-mem down.

SNAXS

Another_User

It was knock. Look at where is a/f went lean right before his 50 ft-lb torque dip on that one run. The question is, why did it go that lean that fast. Might be the MAF. Something got jarred. I would be looking for broken conenctors, something knocked loose, DTCs, anything that looked out of the ordinary, because something told the computer to either pull fuel, or caused some disturbance in fuel flow.

While I am thinking about it...when you hit whatever it is, did you bottom out your car, and/or run something over? That might be where you should start looking first if you did. O2 sensors, wiring, fuel connections, anything that might have gotten damaged.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

Thanks you, thats what i was looking for. Everyone kept saying try this try this. I just wanted to know why the graph looked like that.

Oh, and yes it bottomed out right after i got finished flying threw the air into the ditch. It must have jared very hard because my lid was off and the fans behind the radiator are kinda sitting back some now and the fuse boxes come completely disconnected from the car.

Another_User

I figured. You definitely need to look for loose or damaged connections, and possibly sensors, particularly on the underside of the car.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

I missed this part. I dont know if i have knock;how do i know? What do you mean what have i done w/ my maf? I cleaned it w/ alcohol like i was told is all. Dont know how to check the pressure on the vavle springs . I did check my plug wires tho and they are ok.

Im buying hp tuners this week, will this help me find out whats wrong?
My problem is i live in MS which means no one in this state or a bordering state except the coast here and la know anything about perfromance cars. I dynoed at luckys which is like the closest shop and no one had a clue why my graph looked like that.

LSs1Power

iTrader: (5)

Just buy a AutoTap or EFI Live 5 and it will monitor your Knock. Check the wires on the MAF and see if there anything on them. Sometimes a little bit oil from the filter will mess up your MAF. Good luck.

Unusual T/A

There is a tool you can buy from thunder to check for spring pressure. I was asking if you swapped the maf out with your friends for the weekend.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

I didnt get a chance to swap it out but after searching and searching i found out that it was the eng sen fuse.

Thanks for all the help guys, hopefully it will dyno a lot more next time. I just wanted to post what it was because i found that when i was searching nobody ever told what the actual problem was so i kept reading and reading and wrote down all the possiblities and then started w/ the least expensive/ easiest and that happend to be it.

Another_User

Sorry we couldn't help more. Glad you found it though!

bad2000ss

iTrader: (6)

Why would anyone want to run colder plugs unless it was needed? Unless you have jacked the timing up to 30+ degrees (with decent fuel would not be neccessary), having really bad detonation problems, high compression motor, a F/I or N2O application there is no reason to go with a colder plug. There would be zero performance gain with a stock naturally aspirated motor. Especially at a 12:1 A/F ratio.

Unusual T/A, perhaps if you gave a more logical explaination for using colder plugs other than, "All fast cars use cold plugs," more people would be apt to listen to you. You might as well shake your fist and yell at a brick wall.

Unusual T/A

Have you even tried them? I'm guessing no. We've tested them and they have made our cars run the best. We get No detonation and have smoother curves. Then again its a lot hotter in texas than most other plays. I don't have your scientific evidence that your looking to find. I know what works for my car and others. I always had detonation with tr55's and also with ac delco rapidfire number #8's. There is no reason for any type of platinum plug in the ls1. Oh not many n/a cars are run at an afr of 12:1, this isn't a FI application. Most normally aspirated cars will run better with an afr of 12:5-12:8.

bad2000ss

iTrader: (6)

Of course i've tried them. I use plugs in my car one step colder the stock. Number one reason being I do run 31 degrees of timing and an A/F ratio a little over 13:1. Number two reason being the lack of any decent fuel in California. (91 Octain at best and in the summer time, it gets worse) I run 91 octain on the street and I run a mix of 103 and 91 at the track.

No body needs scientific evidence as to why you believe a colder plug works better. For your particular set up, colder than stock plugs are neccessary, as well as my set up. For the person who started this thread, they are not needed for his particular set up. If he were in fact to get his car dyno tuned and have the timing increased and the air/fuel leaned out a bit, then yes, he would want to use colder plugs, or better fuel. I prefer to run colder plugs because I don't want to mix fuel to run on the street.

I guess the point that needs to be made is, colder plugs DO NOT make a car faster. In fact a plug that is too cold for naturally aspirated motor could actually hurt performance because not enough fuel is burnt in the combustion process. This is the same reason why he would not want to run C16 fuel over pump gas with his set up.