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most economic way to 400rwhp??

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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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Default most economic way to 400rwhp??

just wanted to know what everyone thinks...
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 09:02 PM
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100 dry shot... and a good tune...
400rw is easy
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Armageddon
100 dry shot... and a good tune...
400rw is easy
o i forgot no nitrous
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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full boltons and a medium sized cam with a tune. OR maybe an sts with a tune.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 11:48 PM
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small cam/heads would drive like stock and have great milage as long as the right foot stayed pretty tame
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 01:02 PM
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you said economic that pretty much just leaves nitrous! heads cams headers none of it is really economic
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 02:03 PM
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Buy u a TR224 cam, full exhaust, D/R's and 4.10's. thatll feel nice.

--Buster
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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a tr224 and a set of patriot heads would get you around 415rwhp and be about $2000 + the added cost of bolt-ons...
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 03:44 PM
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If you want economic then its going to be lid, pacesetters, pulley, ORY, cutout on stock exhaust, cam, springs, labor done by you, and a tune.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 06:43 PM
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LS6 intake, LT's, Exhaust, big cam, tune
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 01:32 PM
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Simple. There are only two possible answers to this.
1) Nitrous
2) Bolt-ons, cam, tune.

This is assuming you have an M6. With an A4 the power will be there, and it will be quicker, but it probably wouldn't dyno that high.
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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headers cam.. dont worry about the dyno numbers that much id worry about et's they are alot more meaningful
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 03:24 PM
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If your in winter springs, fl you might want to give Norris Motorsports a call since they're local.
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 03:37 PM
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them or the guys at Revxtreme
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 06:39 PM
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are they both in orlando?
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Hennytime
are they both in orlando?
See banner for revxtreme in post above yours.
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 07:24 PM
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Here is/will be my approach to a stricly N/A modification:

All upgraded suspension components first: reinforced RCA's, panhard, adj.torque arm, SFC's, etc

CAI (cold air induction), and a bigger MAF, plus tuning, LT headers

Phase II:

12 bolt 4.11 gears to handle the torque/HP

Phase III:

AFI pulley setup, double rolling timing chain, baby cam w/required upgraded components, H/D oil pump, DR's or Nittos and finally, TUNING
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk526
Here is/will be my approach to a strictly N/A modification:

All upgraded suspension components first: reinforced RCA's, panhard, adj.torque arm, SFC's, etc

CAI (cold air induction), and a bigger MAF, plus tuning, LT headers

Phase II:

12 bolt 4.11 gears to handle the torque/HP

Phase III:

AFI pulley setup, double rolling timing chain, baby cam w/required upgraded components, H/D oil pump, DR's or Nittos and finally, TUNING
Forn one, you don't even need to consider touching the MAF. What about the other bolt-ons? Why a baby cam?
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 07:41 PM
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Less tuning issues, better gas mileage, less likely emissions issue, etc.etc.

...and depending on exhaust system, LOUD!

Just suggested 85mm MAF or larger b/c of intake. More air in/more air out = better performance. If you want to push 400HP at the wheels, it could help, but maybe not more than 5-10 HP. I would say that a bigger TB is not required under these circumstances.

This is the setup that many run here locally, and have much success. I only recommended a baby cam for streetability reasons. Seems like I have read where 230+ cams can create more problems than they solve w/stock lower end. I seldom here problems involving 224 or 228's. Another approach is a custom cam (grind) to spec's. I have a torqy cam just waiting in the wings for when my car gets paid-off. (currently on extended warranty)

These mods should put me at around 390 - 400 rwhlhp

Agree/disagree? Please add value where required!

Last edited by Firehawk526; Apr 13, 2005 at 08:34 PM.
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