I'll take that as a good thing...I think. 
New Dyno numbers, bolt on 99 LS1
New Dyno numbers, bolt on 99 LS1 We had a dyno day here in Memphis yesterday. The correction factors that the shop used were a little bit off, but I'll post what the corrected SAE numbers are.
My second run was actually the best. Here are the corrected weather info plus corrected dyno numbers.
temp - 101.27, barameter - 29.93, Humidity 34%, altitude - 300'
I used this calculator http://www.csgnetwork.com/relhumhpcalc.html and got a correction factor of 1.039.
So I divided the 368.58hp and 369.44tq by 1.07 then multiplied that number by 1.039 and I got 357.9hp and 358.7tq.
I'm very happy with my numbers here are my mods (Btw, this was all NA, no nitrous numbers)
1999 M6
LS6 intake
28.8lb injectors (car still has stock tune...but as you can see from the graph it's just a little fat.)
Pacesetter headers with 18" extensions...no exhaust (long story it fell off)
3.73 gears
Clear lid, descreened maf
Spec stage 4 unsprung clutch
Spec aluminum flywheel.
As far as power goes that's all I've got...I hope to get back to the track soon on the nitto's to get some new all motor numbers. Then the cam goes in
Here is a dyno with just lid and cutout.
My second run was actually the best. Here are the corrected weather info plus corrected dyno numbers.
temp - 101.27, barameter - 29.93, Humidity 34%, altitude - 300'
I used this calculator http://www.csgnetwork.com/relhumhpcalc.html and got a correction factor of 1.039.
So I divided the 368.58hp and 369.44tq by 1.07 then multiplied that number by 1.039 and I got 357.9hp and 358.7tq.
I'm very happy with my numbers here are my mods (Btw, this was all NA, no nitrous numbers)
1999 M6
LS6 intake
28.8lb injectors (car still has stock tune...but as you can see from the graph it's just a little fat.)
Pacesetter headers with 18" extensions...no exhaust (long story it fell off)
3.73 gears
Clear lid, descreened maf
Spec stage 4 unsprung clutch
Spec aluminum flywheel.
As far as power goes that's all I've got...I hope to get back to the track soon on the nitto's to get some new all motor numbers. Then the cam goes in
Here is a dyno with just lid and cutout.
Wow, I hope your kidding badsz28, because thats WRONG. Anyone will tell you that an aluminum fly wheel IS GREAT for racing but on the street is a pain in the *** because of chatter issues
I understand on the inertia thing, I was warned about that before I ever bought the flywheel...but what do you mean by this Where will I see this mystery hp then?
I've cut 1.85 60' times NA and 1.75 60' times on nitrous. Around here that's pretty good on my bald nitto's.
giving you HP you will not really see at the track.
I've cut 1.85 60' times NA and 1.75 60' times on nitrous. Around here that's pretty good on my bald nitto's.
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Not really. With that power you should be more like 1.75 N/A 1.65 spray. Search if you like. Check the ET data base. You may just need more practice to get better numbers like most of us including myself, but a steel flywheel will get you out of the whole better, easier. You will be able to slip less and fully engage the clutch faster.
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Originally Posted by BADSZ28
Not really. With that power you should be more like 1.75 N/A 1.65 spray. Search if you like. Check the ET data base. You may just need more practice to get better numbers like most of us including myself, but a steel flywheel will get you out of the whole better, easier. You will be able to slip less and fully engage the clutch faster.
On the NA run I side-stepped the clutch at 4500rpms and had no bogging and just a tad bit of wheel spin.
On the nitrous run it side-stepped the clutch at 3500 and sprayed it as the clutch hit the top...there was no slipping of the clutch in either launch.
Also, my only suspension mods are a Spohn non-adjustable LCA's and spohn non-adjustable PHB. What kind of tires are you using to cut 1.75 NA launches on? I bought my nitto's used and have put many passes on them. They are far from being new or great.
OK. You are the all knowing one of Aluminum Flywheels. I am sorry I made a comment to try and help your times. You obviously are having better experiance with the Aluminum than others.
Unfortunately due to TM issues, I have never pulled that great of 60s. Now that that is taken care of, I hope to change that. I will post my times after I go in the next week or two. Nittos last forever man. Guys cut 1.60-1.70 all the time on 16" and 17" Nittos. I have over 30 passes with over 10K miles on mine and still no belts showing. They do not have much of a bite anymore without smoking them but you get the idea. I have some M/T DRs going on soon. I am glad you are having a good experiance with the flywheel.
Unfortunately due to TM issues, I have never pulled that great of 60s. Now that that is taken care of, I hope to change that. I will post my times after I go in the next week or two. Nittos last forever man. Guys cut 1.60-1.70 all the time on 16" and 17" Nittos. I have over 30 passes with over 10K miles on mine and still no belts showing. They do not have much of a bite anymore without smoking them but you get the idea. I have some M/T DRs going on soon. I am glad you are having a good experiance with the flywheel.
Don't be like that man...I'm not trying to know everything...I'm just stating what my expierence has been. And I'm still confused by what you meant when you said it gives me hp I won't see at the track. I wouldn't think it's given me much hp other than up top if anything...and that's where I'm at when I'm at the track is in the upper RPMS.
OK. Cool. As long as you are being open to other opinions. It just seems that you need to fight to back up your opinions arround here or you are a dummy you know. I do not have an aluminum one, but looked into them deeply and concluded that it would hinder more than help. You have had a good experiance thus far.
What I was saying is that typically does not come out of the hole as well as a steel flywheel so your times will not show the increase in power at the track. Maybe a better trap, but if your ET is lower, then what is the point. Do you see what I am saying? SO you pulled an 11.78@119, now typically if you go steel you would see like 11.70@117 or something. Less trap but better ET. ET is what wins in drag racing. But if you can get this aluminum wheel to work, more power to you.
My ultimate point is that majority says Steel for drag and Aluminum for road.
What I was saying is that typically does not come out of the hole as well as a steel flywheel so your times will not show the increase in power at the track. Maybe a better trap, but if your ET is lower, then what is the point. Do you see what I am saying? SO you pulled an 11.78@119, now typically if you go steel you would see like 11.70@117 or something. Less trap but better ET. ET is what wins in drag racing. But if you can get this aluminum wheel to work, more power to you.
My ultimate point is that majority says Steel for drag and Aluminum for road.
