My TSP Magic Stick Dyno Results!
09-02-2005, 05:00 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by 1MEANGTO
So does my 04 thats why I'm putting the magic stick in that. I think the heat was affecting that as well. I'm hoping to get close to 400 with the cam change. And I'm spraying 100 on that car so i should be running a lot faster but the goats are pigs.
The only thing about the magic stick in the GTO that concerns me is the weight. You'll need that convertor to flash fairly high to leave the line in the powerband.
Of course, nitrous helps with that too.
09-02-2005, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by hugger1975
Its corrected.
Clutch was bad. Prolly saved my *** though.
Had to granny shift, launch light, etc.
3 days after textrellia clutch break in, broke my rear.
I planned on high 12's @ 110 at 6000 feet with the new clutch.........
(or 11.9 @ 118 give or take corrected)
My race weight 3450 was without me so + 170
Clutch was bad. Prolly saved my *** though.
Had to granny shift, launch light, etc.
3 days after textrellia clutch break in, broke my rear.
I planned on high 12's @ 110 at 6000 feet with the new clutch.........
(or 11.9 @ 118 give or take corrected)
My race weight 3450 was without me so + 170
Yank the back seats, sway bar, borrow a friend's pro-stars up front, and with a better clutch you'll be much closer to 119 corrected....
09-02-2005, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenny H
This could be completely wrong, I'm no tuner but it always seemed like the LS1 cars with slightly less timing maintained more of their performance in the heat. The car that were tuned closer to the edge at 30-31 degrees had more issues running in the warmer weather, they were down more power etc....
No that statement is correct, but there are measures you can take to reduce the likelihood of producing bad spark. 160 stat + water wetter is a good thing to run in this kind of heat. It also has alot to do with how the motor "decides" to break-in over time, I know others that have zero problems running 30 degrees, where as other cars run 30 pulling 4 degrees KR (lol) mod for mod. It doesnt necessarily mean that running 30 degrees = more absolute power either, every motor has its tolerances. This is just what my car likes!
But running 28-30 degrees isn't terribly uncommon, it just makes you sound like a hardass- "Yeh, I'm runnin 30 degrees of WOT timing....."
09-02-2005, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenny H
115.XX MPH seems low for a true 380+ RWHP at that weight. Is that corrected or an uncorrected ET and trap?
I guess the clutch was slipping very badly?
I guess the clutch was slipping very badly?
09-04-2005, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenny H
Hell yes! I am totally convinced this '04 GTO loses A LOT more power in the heat then my LS1 Formy ever did. I'm just too lazy and cheap to get it tuned....
The only thing about the magic stick in the GTO that concerns me is the weight. You'll need that convertor to flash fairly high to leave the line in the powerband.
Of course, nitrous helps with that too.
The only thing about the magic stick in the GTO that concerns me is the weight. You'll need that convertor to flash fairly high to leave the line in the powerband.
Of course, nitrous helps with that too.
BTW: I love the fact that you raced your hyandai at the track!!!!!!!!! Thats awesome. Locally we have a Tiburon that's way fast it runs low 10's it's just nuts.
09-04-2005, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by txhorns281
100 degree weather in Houston ain't got **** on me!
No that statement is correct, but there are measures you can take to reduce the likelihood of producing bad spark. 160 stat + water wetter is a good thing to run in this kind of heat. It also has alot to do with how the motor "decides" to break-in over time, I know others that have zero problems running 30 degrees, where as other cars run 30 pulling 4 degrees KR (lol) mod for mod. It doesnt necessarily mean that running 30 degrees = more absolute power either, every motor has its tolerances. This is just what my car likes! But running 28-30 degrees isn't terribly uncommon, it just makes you sound like a hardass- "Yeh, I'm runnin 30 degrees of WOT timing....."
No that statement is correct, but there are measures you can take to reduce the likelihood of producing bad spark. 160 stat + water wetter is a good thing to run in this kind of heat. It also has alot to do with how the motor "decides" to break-in over time, I know others that have zero problems running 30 degrees, where as other cars run 30 pulling 4 degrees KR (lol) mod for mod. It doesnt necessarily mean that running 30 degrees = more absolute power either, every motor has its tolerances. This is just what my car likes!
But running 28-30 degrees isn't terribly uncommon, it just makes you sound like a hardass- "Yeh, I'm runnin 30 degrees of WOT timing....." Joey,
How much timing are you running anyways?
Am I correct in thinking guys the '98s generally run a little more timing then '01+ cars?
09-04-2005, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RaNsOm
I was making exactly 380rwhp with my B1 (221/221 .558/.558 114) and I was only trapping 115, but that was during June-Sept months. Never ran it in optimal conditions
09-04-2005, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 1MEANGTO
I have a very loose converter...... It's stalling at 3600 with a 230/224 cam in it I think it is going to be even looser. I'm putting my cam in in the morning so I'll start a thread tommorrow and some new tuning to kill my mind(like that hasn't happened yet). I know it's a heavy pig and it's a big cam for it but the NX will love it alot.
BTW: I love the fact that you raced your hyandai at the track!!!!!!!!! Thats awesome. Locally we have a Tiburon that's way fast it runs low 10's it's just nuts.
BTW: I love the fact that you raced your hyandai at the track!!!!!!!!! Thats awesome. Locally we have a Tiburon that's way fast it runs low 10's it's just nuts.
PM me with your thoughts on the fuddle, I don't want to hijack this thread....
09-05-2005, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenny H
Makes sense...Your in MD, hit Cecil in the fall and you'll be stoked....
09-05-2005, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RaNsOm
bah, I tore that small baby cam out 7 months later and put this 230/236 in, now Im close to 120 (and that was with the stock rear and 3.42s)
09-07-2005, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenny H
I had a T1 in the Formy....IF I get around to doing anything to this GTO or if I pick up an FBod again I would go bigger. How does this cam compare to your old B1?
However, I put the 230/236 in and drove around with the same tune (if you can even call it that) I had with the B1 and it drove just fine. I had my buddy do a full tune on it, driving around and getting rid of the small surges and bucking, and now it drives just like a stocker. You may think I'm exagerating, but Im dead serious. No bucking, no surging, nothing.
I havent had it dynoed again yet, but I wouldnt be surprised if I gained a boatload of mid-range power and at least 20+rwhp. +5mph traps too.
I <3 big cams
09-07-2005, 01:50 PM
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I have a simular cam as you, mine is one step smaller.
here is my before and after comparision of the ls6 intake. http://www.n2s1.net/images/havocdyno..._ls6intake.jpg
here is my before and after comparision of the ls6 intake. http://www.n2s1.net/images/havocdyno..._ls6intake.jpg
09-07-2005, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by _HAVOC_
I have a simular cam as you, mine is one step smaller.
here is my before and after comparision of the ls6 intake. http://www.n2s1.net/images/havocdyno..._ls6intake.jpg
here is my before and after comparision of the ls6 intake. http://www.n2s1.net/images/havocdyno..._ls6intake.jpg
09-07-2005, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeyAnderson
SWEET! Those are the kind of numbers I'm hoping for. Thank you for the informative post!
09-07-2005, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RaNsOm
Honestly, if I had to do it all over again, I would have went big the first time around. With the B1, it was only tuned in 1 hr on a dyno, for peak power. No driveability tuning really, but it was a good street cam.
However, I put the 230/236 in and drove around with the same tune (if you can even call it that) I had with the B1 and it drove just fine. I had my buddy do a full tune on it, driving around and getting rid of the small surges and bucking, and now it drives just like a stocker. You may think I'm exagerating, but Im dead serious. No bucking, no surging, nothing.
I havent had it dynoed again yet, but I wouldnt be surprised if I gained a boatload of mid-range power and at least 20+rwhp. +5mph traps too.
I <3 big cams
However, I put the 230/236 in and drove around with the same tune (if you can even call it that) I had with the B1 and it drove just fine. I had my buddy do a full tune on it, driving around and getting rid of the small surges and bucking, and now it drives just like a stocker. You may think I'm exagerating, but Im dead serious. No bucking, no surging, nothing.
I havent had it dynoed again yet, but I wouldnt be surprised if I gained a boatload of mid-range power and at least 20+rwhp. +5mph traps too.
I <3 big cams
09-07-2005, 03:39 PM
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Mine drives like stock as well, just minor surging at very low RPMs. I couldn't be happier on the way home after the tune!
Ordering the next round of bolt-ons very soon, Ls6 intake, ported TB and UD pulley included. 400whp, here I come!
Then heads...
Ordering the next round of bolt-ons very soon, Ls6 intake, ported TB and UD pulley included. 400whp, here I come!
Then heads...