G-tech?!?!?
11-15-2005, 08:30 PM
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Isn't net hp the same as power to the ground (aka rwhp)? For example, if you make $100 but you are taxed $10, your net income is $90. Shouldn't it be the same situation here?
11-16-2005, 09:11 AM
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well, I have a gtech and i initailly and still get low reading....well, it all depends on what day I use it! 
THe best way is to absoluely input your CORRECT wieght into the setup. Try this. Input mm.....3600lbs. Run it...than 3400 run it again..your net power will go up!! Pretty simple and not very indepth rocket science, but my point is that one, your weight calibrations have to be on par.
Secondly, i believe the net power the gtech shows is including ALL the factors when doing your run.
For example, on dyno, your running on a smooth roller which doesnt vary in surface area, texture, and pitch (meaning an angle gradiant....on a flat surface!! God, it took forever to spit that phrase out!) Also, you have no wind resistance, and are getting a power reading from a machine that is more accurate but not so much that; it reads the power AT the wheels. It measures the amount of time it took to spin a weighted drum, calculates...and Wula!!! Thats you torque. Than, it derives you HP number by analysing the amount of time it took to develop that torque figure. Shabang-baby!! Horsepower!!
On the gtech, you are doing these runs on "SAFE", "non-public" roads which vary in road surface area, texture, slope, material..etc. Also, you have a varying factor of wind resistance. Temperature i may or may not use for this because it also varies on a dyno since they are not climate controlled..though that would be awesome!!!
Anyways, your gtech measures power, inlcuding ALL of the mentioned variables AND not as accurately as a dynometer. BAsically, it reads the distance covered, your speed or rate of acceleration and figures out the amount of power used to accelerate the weight you have inputed earlier in your setup. Thats you gtech NET power reading. Its not derived from a spinning drum directly "contected" (lack of a better word) to your drive wheels but from a set of sensors, which are respectfully accurate I might add, which only requires basic physics to do the calculations. Which of course will all vary if you change you constant factors (your weight) just a bit, you reading will be off.
wow...long huh? (oh, thats wat she said!! ) Im not and expert but maybe this should help out getting you started...
THe best way is to absoluely input your CORRECT wieght into the setup. Try this. Input mm.....3600lbs. Run it...than 3400 run it again..your net power will go up!! Pretty simple and not very indepth rocket science, but my point is that one, your weight calibrations have to be on par.
Secondly, i believe the net power the gtech shows is including ALL the factors when doing your run.
For example, on dyno, your running on a smooth roller which doesnt vary in surface area, texture, and pitch (meaning an angle gradiant....on a flat surface!! God, it took forever to spit that phrase out!
) Also, you have no wind resistance, and are getting a power reading from a machine that is more accurate but not so much that; it reads the power AT the wheels. It measures the amount of time it took to spin a weighted drum, calculates...and Wula!!! Thats you torque. Than, it derives you HP number by analysing the amount of time it took to develop that torque figure. Shabang-baby!! Horsepower!!On the gtech, you are doing these runs on "SAFE", "non-public" roads which vary in road surface area, texture, slope, material..etc. Also, you have a varying factor of wind resistance. Temperature i may or may not use for this because it also varies on a dyno since they are not climate controlled..though that would be awesome!!!
Anyways, your gtech measures power, inlcuding ALL of the mentioned variables AND not as accurately as a dynometer. BAsically, it reads the distance covered, your speed or rate of acceleration and figures out the amount of power used to accelerate the weight you have inputed earlier in your setup. Thats you gtech NET power reading. Its not derived from a spinning drum directly "contected" (lack of a better word) to your drive wheels but from a set of sensors, which are respectfully accurate I might add, which only requires basic physics to do the calculations. Which of course will all vary if you change you constant factors (your weight) just a bit, you reading will be off.
wow...long huh? (oh, thats wat she said!!
) Im not and expert but maybe this should help out getting you started... Last edited by obZidian; 11-16-2005 at 09:20 AM.
11-16-2005, 09:42 AM
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is it a stock car?
if so, on a gtech, it may be accurate, yes.....
But i really dont use the get for the numbers it produces. I like the graph and mph acceleratin numbers. Also, the staging and quarter mile features are really cool and VERY accurate.
you see, you gotta understand that you shouldnt rely so much, though it can be upsetting whe you pay so much money on a product thta is advertised HP/TRQ numbers and you get 265hp..... I know, I KNOW...i went through that as well. That the numbers on a gtech wont EVER compare to the number your gonna get on a dynometer. THey may come close or be DEAD on, but a dynometer will and is more consistant at producing hp/tqr figures.
You just gotta find the other available uses in the gtech to really find its values. (NOW...you can use that 265hp, do some mods, and run it again to see how much you gain. ITs best if you did three or four runs and averaged it out. Also, do ALL the runs on the SAME surface AKA street with a close watch on wind and temperature...that will ensure a more accurate reading. I know that its kinda sucks waiting for the temperature and wind...blah blah blah....you dont have to, but you can!!
good luck...IMO, the drag tree is awesome and will help you on your launch if your into drag. ALso, the g-meter will help you tune your suspension in the corners...seeing the amount of g's you have increased while under load is important if you want to go fast and corner at th same time....
BE safe and good luck...
if so, on a gtech, it may be accurate, yes.....
But i really dont use the get for the numbers it produces. I like the graph and mph acceleratin numbers. Also, the staging and quarter mile features are really cool and VERY accurate.
you see, you gotta understand that you shouldnt rely so much, though it can be upsetting whe you pay so much money on a product thta is advertised HP/TRQ numbers and you get 265hp.....
I know, I KNOW...i went through that as well. That the numbers on a gtech wont EVER compare to the number your gonna get on a dynometer. THey may come close or be DEAD on, but a dynometer will and is more consistant at producing hp/tqr figures. You just gotta find the other available uses in the gtech to really find its values. (NOW...you can use that 265hp, do some mods, and run it again to see how much you gain. ITs best if you did three or four runs and averaged it out. Also, do ALL the runs on the SAME surface AKA street with a close watch on wind and temperature...that will ensure a more accurate reading. I know that its kinda sucks waiting for the temperature and wind...blah blah blah....you dont have to, but you can!!
good luck...IMO, the drag tree is awesome and will help you on your launch if your into drag. ALso, the g-meter will help you tune your suspension in the corners...seeing the amount of g's you have increased while under load is important if you want to go fast and corner at th same time....
BE safe and good luck...
Last edited by obZidian; 11-16-2005 at 09:48 AM.
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11-16-2005, 10:44 AM
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The G-tech should only be used to see if certain parts hurt or help your car's performance and nothing more. You cant compair two different cars with it in my opinion. I had a simular setup in my Stealth TT and never cared what it said my HP was but I liked to see the gains all the mods added. I was able to see my HP go from stock to around 450hp so I felt my money was well spent. Now did my car put out 450hp? Well it may have been close but I know it put out 148 more hp than it did stock. The other problem is that I would have to go about 120mph in third gear to get a full pull. That is crazy!!
