WTF! 5 hp gain after Kooks, 160 thermo, Ported TB, and more
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WTF! 5 hp gain after Kooks, 160 thermo, Ported TB, (posted graphs)
Ok, so I need some advice or comments on my situation. Dyno’d the car with just a lid and Holly Powershot filter just over a year ago and put down 308 rwhp 331 rwtq on a DynoJet. Over the winter made the following Mods:
Kooks 1-3/4 headers
Kooks ORY (no cats)
Jantzer Ported TB
160 degree thermostat
NGK tr-55
MSD wires
Free Ram Air Mod (cut lower Air Box)
Paper Air Filter (pulled the Holly Powershot)
Tune (remove Cags, Cats, Fan Temp to 160 degrees, and “98 octane tune”
So Saturday I go to another shop and get it dyno’d also on a DynoJet. First run was “dangerously lean” put down 307 rwhp and 319 rwtq. The guy dynoing it used HP Tuners to adjust my A/F to about 13.6 across RPM range and my numbers were 313 rwhp and 333 rwtq. He did this by just adjusting the fuel tables.
My thoughts, WTF $1000 plus and almost no gain! I guess I could have got major heat manifold heat soak from the FRA. Maybe a filter does make a huge difference. Could TPS on TB be jacked up? Do I need a professional Dyno tune? WTF
Kooks 1-3/4 headers
Kooks ORY (no cats)
Jantzer Ported TB
160 degree thermostat
NGK tr-55
MSD wires
Free Ram Air Mod (cut lower Air Box)
Paper Air Filter (pulled the Holly Powershot)
Tune (remove Cags, Cats, Fan Temp to 160 degrees, and “98 octane tune”
So Saturday I go to another shop and get it dyno’d also on a DynoJet. First run was “dangerously lean” put down 307 rwhp and 319 rwtq. The guy dynoing it used HP Tuners to adjust my A/F to about 13.6 across RPM range and my numbers were 313 rwhp and 333 rwtq. He did this by just adjusting the fuel tables.
My thoughts, WTF $1000 plus and almost no gain! I guess I could have got major heat manifold heat soak from the FRA. Maybe a filter does make a huge difference. Could TPS on TB be jacked up? Do I need a professional Dyno tune? WTF
Last edited by solocus; 06-05-2006 at 08:06 PM. Reason: posted graphs
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different dyno's different results...going "dangerously lean" on the stock tune sounds more like a mechanical issue then anything since the stock tune commands ~11.5:1 at wot in most calibrations...also 13.6:1 on a dyno will generally run slightly leaner on the street so its a possibility the tune is still off.
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Originally Posted by foff667
different dyno's different results...going "dangerously lean" on the stock tune sounds more like a mechanical issue then anything since the stock tune commands ~11.5:1 at wot in most calibrations...also 13.6:1 on a dyno will generally run slightly leaner on the street so its a possibility the tune is still off.
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Originally Posted by solocus
Ok, so I need some advice or comments on my situation. Dyno’d the car with just a lid and Holly Powershot filter just over a year ago and put down 308 rwhp 331 rwtq on a DynoJet. Over the winter made the following Mods:
Kooks 1-3/4 headers
Kooks ORY (no cats)
Jantzer Ported TB
160 degree thermostat
NGK tr-55
MSD wires
Free Ram Air Mod (cut lower Air Box)
Paper Air Filter (pulled the Holly Powershot)
Tune (remove Cags, Cats, Fan Temp to 160 degrees, and “98 octane tune”
So Saturday I go to another shop and get it dyno’d also on a DynoJet. First run was “dangerously lean” put down 307 rwhp and 319 rwtq. The guy dynoing it used HP Tuners to adjust my A/F to about 13.6 across RPM range and my numbers were 313 rwhp and 333 rwtq. He did this by just adjusting the fuel tables.
My thoughts, WTF $1000 plus and almost no gain! I guess I could have got major heat manifold heat soak from the FRA. Maybe a filter does make a huge difference. Could TPS on TB be jacked up? Do I need a professional Dyno tune? WTF
Kooks 1-3/4 headers
Kooks ORY (no cats)
Jantzer Ported TB
160 degree thermostat
NGK tr-55
MSD wires
Free Ram Air Mod (cut lower Air Box)
Paper Air Filter (pulled the Holly Powershot)
Tune (remove Cags, Cats, Fan Temp to 160 degrees, and “98 octane tune”
So Saturday I go to another shop and get it dyno’d also on a DynoJet. First run was “dangerously lean” put down 307 rwhp and 319 rwtq. The guy dynoing it used HP Tuners to adjust my A/F to about 13.6 across RPM range and my numbers were 313 rwhp and 333 rwtq. He did this by just adjusting the fuel tables.
My thoughts, WTF $1000 plus and almost no gain! I guess I could have got major heat manifold heat soak from the FRA. Maybe a filter does make a huge difference. Could TPS on TB be jacked up? Do I need a professional Dyno tune? WTF
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I would look at false knock possibly. If the y-pipe pieces were not installed correctly it could be banging the floorboard. Bad gas... lots of things it could be. That combination I usually get at least 340+ out of even on a "non-dyno queen" car.
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Like they said 13.6 is still too lean.
What's funny is that at the dyno day I went to this weekend, the shop guys kept telling the LS1 cars that they should shoot for 13.5 to 1.
WRONG!!
They should shoot for 12.5 to 12.8 to 1 on a dyno wideband for a relatively safe tune with good power.
What's funny is that at the dyno day I went to this weekend, the shop guys kept telling the LS1 cars that they should shoot for 13.5 to 1.
WRONG!!
They should shoot for 12.5 to 12.8 to 1 on a dyno wideband for a relatively safe tune with good power.
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Originally Posted by you2slo
You run 98 octane in your bolt on car? You don't have a catback? You may have some constriction there.
You'll lose power.
The higher the octane the LESS combustible the fuel is. Unless you're running seriously high compression or tons of boost...... stick to 93 octane.
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Originally Posted by silverTA2002
Yeah, 98 octane is a big no no for a stock internally car.
stick to 93 octane.
stick to 93 octane.
I'm ditching the FRA and going back to the Holly air filter. There does seem to be some argument for manifold heat soak out there. Well the consensus seems to be add more fuel. so that will definately be on my list!
Mike
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Here are both graphs.
Could the temp 102 degrees almost be killing me?
First one with Lid and Holly filter
Second with kooks headers and ORY, ported TB, 160 thermo, FRA, Tr55 MSD Wires, paper filter
Could the temp 102 degrees almost be killing me?
First one with Lid and Holly filter
Second with kooks headers and ORY, ported TB, 160 thermo, FRA, Tr55 MSD Wires, paper filter
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Originally Posted by silverTA2002
What's interesting is on your first dyno, you cut off right when the HP is about to peak. I'd bet you'd even make slightly more power if you'd kept in it.
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You definatly need to be a little more rich 13.6 to 1 isnt a good afr 13.0 would be better. Check the usual things over too if you can compression, fuel pressure (under load not at idel), plug gap just to make sure things are still in order.
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Originally Posted by SVT THIS
Dyno numbers mean jack ****. What were your track times before and after? Did you improve? That's all I would worry about. You don't race people on the dyno...