Question on corrected/uncorected numbers????
I have put a ported T.B on it now to so im guessing that is about 10whp and will be getting a underdrive pulley on it soon to for another 10whp
The file shows 88F, 35% humidity, and 4500ft elevation(!). It also gives absolute pressure as 30.0in-hg and vapor pressure as 0.5 in-hg. Actual readings per the weatherunderground website were: 30.02 in-hg, 60% humidity, 81F, and actual elevation is <50ft above sea level.
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I get more change in HP numbers from going to different dynos. It depends on how the dyno is calabraded with elevation, weather, etc. The only real comparisons that can be made is by using the same dyno and looking at the same correction factors, whether SAE or STD. But comparing your dyno numbers with someone elses from a different dyno isn't a good comparison. The biggest difference I have seen was on 2 cars that had dynos done from out of town. One was about an 1 1/2hr away the other 4hrs away. With nothing else changed on these cars one had 20 less HP and the other one had 35 less HP numbers on the dynos in our area. Only after tuning did they get their numbers back and then some. But, I am sure it they went back to the other dynos their numbers would have been even higher.
You said that so much better than I did. Right to the point.
If I dyno in 65 degree weather, slap on an air intake and then dyno on a 95 degree day and expect amazing numbers then I am oblvious to reality. My whole point was to not get caught up in the numbers themselves. Correction factors have people freaking out all the time and honestly the LS1 guys are more bitchy about it than when I was back with the import crowd.
If I dyno in 65 degree weather, slap on an air intake and then dyno on a 95 degree day and expect amazing numbers then I am oblvious to reality. My whole point was to not get caught up in the numbers themselves. Correction factors have people freaking out all the time and honestly the LS1 guys are more bitchy about it than when I was back with the import crowd.
Using your numbers, if you dyno at 65 degree, then dyno on a 95 degree day, with no other atmospheric changes (humidity or baro pres), you will loose around 20 HP on a 300 HP with no engine changes. Now consider some baro pr drop and more humidity, and your HP drop will be much more. How can anyone make any intelligent tuning decisions with such potential measurement spreads? It makes no sense to me why anyone would operate a dyno and not use an accepted standard of measurement that helps to negate such questionable dyno info.
As I stated before, you do a baseline run to see where you are at. THEN you tune. Regardless of correction factor you ALWAYS run off of a baseline. If you hit 365 on your baseline, and after tuning you hit 375 then you gained power, that will show REGARDLESS of correction factor. THe point is that you GAINED, who gives a **** if the correction factor makes it 10-15rwhp, let the Supra boys argue peak power.



