Forged 347, Trex, and Heads = 402rwhp??????
#22
I have a very similar setup to what you have and my car put down 453rwhp with only 500 - 600 miles on it. Mine didnt smoke any from initial startup to present, even while the rings seated. I used non-synthetic Castrol 5w30 motor oil for the first 1,000 miles. My car also throws a TPS code, and this is gonna be normal for the setup. It has to do with the amount of vaccuum your car is making at idle, and at low rpm cruising. My car at idle only pulls 78 to 80 kpa of vaccuum, whereas a stock car pulls, i think, around 50 kpa. HP Tuners, if you have this, makes a Speed Density Enhanced upgrade for our cars that lets the fueling be read off of the TPS sensor instead of the vaccuum which will help some of your issues. Getting ready to upgrade mine in the next couple of days.
#23
Originally Posted by moeZ28
I have a very similar setup to what you have and my car put down 453rwhp with only 500 - 600 miles on it. Mine didnt smoke any from initial startup to present, even while the rings seated. I used non-synthetic Castrol 5w30 motor oil for the first 1,000 miles. My car also throws a TPS code, and this is gonna be normal for the setup. It has to do with the amount of vaccuum your car is making at idle, and at low rpm cruising. My car at idle only pulls 78 to 80 kpa of vaccuum, whereas a stock car pulls, i think, around 50 kpa. HP Tuners, if you have this, makes a Speed Density Enhanced upgrade for our cars that lets the fueling be read off of the TPS sensor instead of the vaccuum which will help some of your issues. Getting ready to upgrade mine in the next couple of days.
#24
i cant believe not one person has told you this! FIX the ******* problem with the O2s etc and get the car tuned FIRST and FOREMOST before tearing into the engine! A bad O2 sensor or really FUBARd tune could easily cost you 50rwhp... Get those items fixed first and the A/F ratio right BEFORE tearing into the engine and chasing around ring problems. This could easily solve your entire problem, the rings may still seat fine once they are not being washed down with the rich A/F mixture.
#26
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
From the brief decription it sounds like a problem with the driver side.The TPS should not be throwing a code either.The gas in the oil is not normal.I would hate to say it but I would think the engine is gas washed.
Yup!
#27
Well I deleted my pcv system and it stopped smoking all together. But now my o2 sensors are all out of whack I guess because of the smoking oil going through the exhaust. It's throwing p0135 and p0155 heater circit malfunction. It seems quicker now, but I guess I wont find out till i replace the o2s and get it redynoed...
#29
Who ever is tuning it should be able to tell you the AFR @ idle with the wideband. And you will also be able to pull your dipstick and smell it. There should be no fuel smell in the oil. If there is then you fuel washed the motor. Like everyone has said. Do the comp test. Better be to be safe than sorry!
#30
I think your rings are probably fine.
The tune and codes may be causing your engine to flood.
What pistons do you have in shortblock??
a valve relief piston w/ stock head is gonna hurt your compression/power output
12bolt w/ 4.10s may also hurt you dyno #s.
The tune and codes may be causing your engine to flood.
What pistons do you have in shortblock??
a valve relief piston w/ stock head is gonna hurt your compression/power output
12bolt w/ 4.10s may also hurt you dyno #s.
#33
Originally Posted by ws.6kid
Well I deleted my pcv system and it stopped smoking all together. But now my o2 sensors are all out of whack I guess because of the smoking oil going through the exhaust. It's throwing p0135 and p0155 heater circit malfunction. It seems quicker now, but I guess I wont find out till i replace the o2s and get it redynoed...
#34
Originally Posted by ws.6kid
This does not make any sense, I have done a TON of research before starting my motor up and 50% of the people say to run the car easy for 500 miles, don't go past 4500 rpm, then after 500 miles let it rip,with oil changes periodically.
The other 50% say it is necessary to run the motor hard with in the first 20 mins as there is a small window of opportunity to get the rings to sit.
So if there is a chance my rings could seal which should I do to by all means to make this happen? Would it be a good idea to try lucas oil stabilizer or some other kind of "stop smoke" oil additive, which cause bad rings to supposedly seal????
The other 50% say it is necessary to run the motor hard with in the first 20 mins as there is a small window of opportunity to get the rings to sit.
So if there is a chance my rings could seal which should I do to by all means to make this happen? Would it be a good idea to try lucas oil stabilizer or some other kind of "stop smoke" oil additive, which cause bad rings to supposedly seal????