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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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Default 100% Humidity

Does humidity affect dyno numbers ?
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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Yes! Go look at what goes into the DA or Density Altitude calculations all the racers use to compare conditions.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 08:35 AM
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Yes, H2O displaces pure Oxygen per a given quantity of intake air thus robbing power, unless it prevents a power loss due to detonation, then you will gain power, like using water injection.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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Im saying this bc I went to the dyno and my numbers seemed kinda low only thing i could see wrong was the day of the dyno it was 100% humidity....?
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nastyta
Im saying this bc I went to the dyno and my numbers seemed kinda low only thing i could see wrong was the day of the dyno it was 100% humidity....?

If they were operating the dyno properly, they would have compensated for that in your dyno #s because they should be using an SAE atmospheric correction factor. If they were not, you got ripped.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 03:39 PM
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I was kinds thinking the same thing, I have a 408 10.1 comp. I thought it would dyno higher than what it did I'll take it back to them..and see if we caint solve this problem thanks for ur help !
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 09:16 AM
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Example, 77deg F, 29.235 Bar Pr, 0% hum equals a times 1.00 correction factor. The same temp and Bar Pr with 100% hum equals a times 1.039 corr factor.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dynocar
If they were operating the dyno properly, they would have compensated for that in your dyno #s because they should be using an SAE atmospheric correction factor. If they were not, you got ripped.
Even with the correction, the numbers are still lower. Less oxegyn in a givin space will make for less power, corrected or not. Go back and dyno on the same dyno on a 50* day with 10% humidity and your numbers will go up a good bit.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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Yeah... Corrections " TRY " to compensate the best they can but cannot overcome major weather conditions all the time. It is still best to try and dyno as close as you can to the same baseline conditions as much as possible.

BTW.. I try to not do and dyno runs at 100% humitity if at all possible. I realize a very dyno busy shop cannot do this but around here we can work around it alot of times.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Even with the correction, the numbers are still lower. Less oxegyn in a givin space will make for less power, corrected or not. Go back and dyno on the same dyno on a 50* day with 10% humidity and your numbers will go up a good bit.
You seem to be missing the whole point of the correction factor. When it is used correctly ( and I am willing to bet that is not often enough), it CORRECTS the power numbers to compensate for the loss of oxygen in the cylinder. That way you can run the same car on two different days and get the same 'corrected' results (all other things being the same) even though the uncorrected numbers will differ.

Brian
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by DynoDR
Yeah... Corrections " TRY " to compensate the best they can but cannot overcome major weather conditions all the time. It is still best to try and dyno as close as you can to the same baseline conditions as much as possible.

BTW.. I try to not do and dyno runs at 100% humitity if at all possible. I realize a very dyno busy shop cannot do this but around here we can work around it alot of times.

With NA cars I have found the correction factors to be very accurate from one weather extreme to the other. On FI cars this is not the case because such cars make their own atmosphere with the outside atmospheric changes not having as much of an affect. If I wanted high numbers on an FI car I would choose a day with the largest correction factor.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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I guess I should have been clear on those "extreme" days, the ones that show a 9%-10% correction or more. They still may get close but wasnt there a max of around a 7% correction that SAE allowed for.

Still, always better to try to be consistent with as many conditions as possible. Good point of bringing up the FI example dynocar.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by dynocar
With NA cars I have found the correction factors to be very accurate from one weather extreme to the other. On FI cars this is not the case because such cars make their own atmosphere with the outside atmospheric changes not having as much of an affect.
Actually......no. On a supercharged vehicle, without changing the drive ratio on the blower, less atmospheric pressure means less air forced into the blower so there is less air forced into the engine. That's why the top fuelers have to change the drive ratio on their blowers when they go to a track at high altitude. Turbo cars come closest to your example IF they use an electronic boost controller measuring ABSOLUTE manifold pressure and adjusting the wastegate accordingly......however, this still makes the turbo work harder in bad air meaning a little more back pressure on the exhaust side so it DOES have some effect anyway. Technically, the correction factor used on most dynos is for N/A engines only..... there are different correction factors for use with forded induction but they are seldom used.

Brian
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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DynoDR, no there is not an SAE limit of 7%, we have seen 12+% correction here at 1000 ft on certain hot/humid summer days and at higher elevations such as CO, I'm sure they see much higher.

HTMtrSpt, my post was stating what I've observed on the dyno using a given SAE correction standard. We used the J607 for our first approx 5 years and the J1349 for the past approx 10 yrs. Interesting, I did not realize that there are different corr factors for forced induction, can you give me more info, such as an example.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by HTMtrSprt
You seem to be missing the whole point of the correction factor.
No, I know what it's for. Wether or not it works to the full extent is another question. We have extreme humidity here in the south, and cars always seem to dyno lower in those conditions. Now operator error is a diffrent story. There's no one person sitting at the desk monitoring atmospheric conditions, so I can only assume that they are using a "standard" correction factor. I was unaware that you could actually go in and change the %.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
No, I know what it's for. Wether or not it works to the full extent is another question. We have extreme humidity here in the south, and cars always seem to dyno lower in those conditions. Now operator error is a diffrent story. There's no one person sitting at the desk monitoring atmospheric conditions, so I can only assume that they are using a "standard" correction factor. I was unaware that you could actually go in and change the %.

Like I stated previously, it seems to work extremely well for NA applications for us anyway. We live in a part of the country that has very extreme swings -20 to 105 deg F, very low to very high humity, etc, yet we can usually directly overlay a vehicles power curves whether it was dynoed in the middle of winter or summer. Some dynos have an automatic weather station build in monitoring the conditions that automatically set the factors in the dynos computer. We have a manual, independent system which I personnally prefer because we can easily move it to the proximity of the engine's induction, whether it's a front or rear engine car and also keep it away from the radiant heater in the winter months. It also forces the dyno operator to monitor each weather condition for decisions as to how ragged edged we want to go on the tune. If a dyno operator does not constantly monitor a manual system during a dyno session, it will deffinately skew the readings. The shop's atmospheric conditions can change dramatically after a few pulls.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Hey guys thanks for your input if somebody would like to pm me, I would like to explain my problem in detail if ...ne body has the time to talk..thanks again guys !
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 10:19 PM
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I realize that you may come up with a correction of 10-12% or more but what I am saying is if you are testing to SAE standards then any correction factor over a certain amount, and by memory I think it is 6, maybe 7% , cannot or should not be used. I know it usually is pretty much dead on, but you are leaving ALOT of to a correction multiplier when you get up to 10% or more.

Just saying again, the less varibles between different test the better.

Originally Posted by dynocar
DynoDR, no there is not an SAE limit of 7%, we have seen 12+% correction here at 1000 ft on certain hot/humid summer days and at higher elevations such as CO, I'm sure they see much higher.

HTMtrSpt, my post was stating what I've observed on the dyno using a given SAE correction standard. We used the J607 for our first approx 5 years and the J1349 for the past approx 10 yrs. Interesting, I did not realize that there are different corr factors for forced induction, can you give me more info, such as an example.
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by DynoDR
I realize that you may come up with a correction of 10-12% or more but what I am saying is if you are testing to SAE standards then any correction factor over a certain amount, and by memory I think it is 6, maybe 7% , cannot or should not be used. I know it usually is pretty much dead on, but you are leaving ALOT of to a correction multiplier when you get up to 10% or more.

Just saying again, the less varibles between different test the better.
I agree, unless such correction standards help eliminate the variables. A dyno shop at a 1 mi elevation already has an SAE 1.26 corr factor just for elevation alone that seems to work pretty well. A baro pr of 29.235 at sea level becomes a 23.906 at 5280 ft above sea level for these dynos.
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 10:25 AM
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thanks agian...!
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