Dynojet vs dyno dynamics
Its a sub 400 CIDIf you had a 408 making 525 rwhp 500 rwtq at least I would know that we are in the ball park for dynojet numbers.
Maybe someone else can help. I am not familiar with dyno dynamic.
Let me go look it up.
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Its a sub 400 CIDWhy dont you tell us about your setup, im guessing stock shortblock, cam with a ATI procharger? either way its nothing so special you need to be that secretive about it, if its only 500 rwhp.
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Should be a law against that.
Why dont you tell us about your setup, im guessing stock shortblock, cam with a ATI procharger? either way its nothing so special you need to be that secretive about it, if its only 500 rwhp.
He is simply asking what the difference is between the two different brands of dynos, what does set-up have to do with it?
This is the dyno I'm referring to http://www.land-and-sea.com/
393 CID 3.905 bore 4.1 stroke
243/249 .613/.619 110.5 LSA
Stage II Absolute Speed 5.3 heads
12.5:1 SCR
36lb injectors
MSD coil packs
Granatelli wires
UD crank pulley
Fast 90/NW 90
SLP 85mm maf
Kooks 1 7/8 lts w/3in true duals "x" pipe
Yella Terra RR
Aluminum flywheel
The 500rwhp and 480 rwtq was with stage I livernois ls6 heads 11:1 SRC and a steel flywheel
Thanks Nick
No wonder there is so much confusion about dyno numbers. It is pretty well understood that the DJs are inflated compared to other brands, then this happens. I know guys that are talking Mustang numbers and marking them up to DJ's numbers when the dyno operator has already done it, and then some. Why would anyone pay so much more for a high quality load control dyno, then mis-calibrate it? Makes one wonder what else these shops, umm, better stop there.
No wonder there is so much confusion about dyno numbers. It is pretty well understood that the DJs are inflated compared to other brands, then this happens. I know guys that are talking Mustang numbers and marking them up to DJ's numbers when the dyno operator has already done it, and then some. Why would anyone pay so much more for a high quality load control dyno, then mis-calibrate it? Makes one wonder what else these shops, umm, better stop there.
I don't know about being inflated, the numbers always seem to match up with the ET and mph cars run, no other dyno really seems to work for that, but who really cares regardless, its about relativity, when tuning or making changes to a car.
HP vs MPH calculators never used to read like that, until a few of them got "recalibrated" for DJs. Keep in mind, we were using chassis dynos for RPM sweep testing long before DJ came along. I cut my teeth on Sun and Clayton brands. But getting back to our main subject, the difference between two bands of dynos. Now that most of us know what to expect from DJs vs other brands, it sure screws things up even worse when someone decides to miscalibrate their non DJ.
Last edited by dynocar; Dec 16, 2006 at 11:10 PM.
We have dyno'ed a ton of bone stock cars which we all know have a "range" of rear wheel readings that we have been able to "offset" with the 12-14 % and lock the dyno at that reading. We haven't touched it since we bought the dyno. A bone stock C6 will make 345-355 RWHP and we see them in that range at the 12.5%. Again what's important is that it leaves with more!

