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Dyno with spray and locked converter.

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Old 12-10-2006, 11:17 AM
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Default Dyno with spray and locked converter.

Is it okay on a mustang dyno to spray a 150 wet kit with a lock conerter? Will it damage the converter?
Old 12-12-2006, 01:09 PM
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anyone????
Old 12-12-2006, 02:16 PM
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what kind of converter is in the car?
Old 12-13-2006, 02:55 PM
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My first thought would be yeah, you could very well make toast out of a TCC with nitrous on an eddy-current load dyno. JMO
Old 12-13-2006, 03:14 PM
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Not any worse then on the street and a lot safer. If the dyno is set up correctly, it will simulate the street's load, best way to test. Or if you really want to play it safe, have the dyno operator turn off the "simulated inertia" for the first few pulls, then if everything is going well, turn the load back on for very close to real world testing, best of both worlds.
Old 12-13-2006, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dynocar
Not any worse then on the street and a lot safer. If the dyno is set up correctly, it will simulate the street's load, best way to test. Or if you really want to play it safe, have the dyno operator turn off the "simulated inertia" for the first few pulls, then if everything is going well, turn the load back on for very close to real world testing, best of both worlds.
Really need to know what type of converter, the rest of the combo, and what size shot.

Its one thing if the converter manufacturer says "yeah sure lock it up on the bottle," but if it is like a stock converter or something I wouldn't do it. Very few companies make a converter with tough enough TCC's for that type of thing. They do exist though.
Old 12-14-2006, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by SSP Racing
Really need to know what type of converter, the rest of the combo, and what size shot.

Its one thing if the converter manufacturer says "yeah sure lock it up on the bottle," but if it is like a stock converter or something I wouldn't do it. Very few companies make a converter with tough enough TCC's for that type of thing. They do exist though.

Yes, I agree 100%, great thing to add. I was just trying to defend one of many dyno myths, that they are hard on cars. Again, they usually are not as hard on the car as doing the same thing on the street or track and I'll add that good dyno shops have helped the performance world by having more cars running strong and reliably now then would have been running without them.

Wish I could count how many times a customer set a dyno appointment to test or tune his new engine and combo but we could not get him right away. Then right before the day of the appointment he had to cancel because he just blew up his engine. All I can say is, I wish we could have got him in sooner or possibly, I'm glad it happened then, not on the dyno.
Old 12-14-2006, 09:19 AM
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Its a Yank 4000 SS, i dont think running a car on the street with nitrous is the same as locking it on the dyno. The converter is never locked at full throttle on the street or at the track.
Old 12-14-2006, 02:43 PM
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OK, I see what you're saying, however, some do intentionally lock the converter at the right time on the street or track, if they have a good locking clutch along the lines of what SSP Racing stated. It can be set up a so that after the RPM goes past the peak HP point and starts dropping, a converter lock pulls the RPM back so it crosses the HP peak again,like a like another gear. It's usually good for a little more MPH and ET because the more we can keep the engine at its peak HP the quicker we go. We set up a guys bracket car that was starting to run out of RPM at the end of the quarter, so we locked his converter right before the finish line. If he was running a close bumper to bumper race, the car usually pulled ahead at that time.
Old 12-15-2006, 09:59 AM
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Any one else on this topic?
Old 12-17-2006, 12:44 AM
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I don't recommend it, TC clutches are meant for cruising... the only reason to do it on the dyno is to artificially inflate your HP numbers.

But what do I know, I only make 650+ rwhp and 700+ft-lbs of tq through a 4L60e.

Ryan K.




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