Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

You can just replace the cam top sprocket and advance the cam 4-6 degrees. The LSA of your cam is ground-in and cannot change. The overlap does not change by advancing or retarding the cam. Dynamic compression will increase quite a bit when you advance the cam which will make your throttle much snappier and your low and mid-range power much more robust. Driveability will improve noticably!

If it were my car, I'd elect for +4 (109 intake centerline) for a manual tranmission with 4.10 gears. For an automatic, I'd recommend +6 (107 intake centerline) or a manual trans vehicle that is primarily a street car. You'll be amazed how much torque you'll pick up by advancing your cam to where it needs to be.

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

Quick question, how are you getting those #'s? Is there a formula that you canplug in the #'s from your cam card to get the results? The reason I ask... now I'm very curious as to what my IVC is on my cam.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Awesome Patrick. As always, thanks for the info. Hopefully I can get this done within the month. Could you tell me where to call to get the top cam sprocket or will I have to buy a whole new adjustable timing chain set and just use the cam sprocket?

LOL> The real magic will be when I see better HP, much better torque and "noticeably" better driveability. That would be freakin sweet!!!! That's the trifecta of vehicle mods. I haven't seen that since I changed the airlid

eLTwerker

I have a question for Patrick G. It says in the cam guide sticky' " reducing overlap on a long duration cam with improve mid range torque at the expense of peak power" If you can't change overlap by advancing or retarding, then how do you do it?

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

You have to change the cam. The overlap of a hydraulic cam is already ground in. It cannot change.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

So where can I buy just the cam sprocket?

lilbuddy1587

iTrader: (1)

so is this good for my cam specs? cam is a 110+2 108 icl
IVO 11 IVC 47
EVO 56 EVO 12

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Not to condone the jacking of my thread but I think that it depends on the cubes and compression also. I don't think that the IVC @ 50 is ideal for all LSX motors. Could be wrong though. Any ideas on someone that would sell me just the cam sprocket? If not, what set should I buy for a single roller stock LS2 crank sprocket and chain?

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

An IVC of 50* ABDC is too late for a 346, but it works nicely for a 408.

Buy your adjustable top sprocket from any dealer who carries Cloyes Hexajust or the Comp private labled version. I got mine from Thunder Racing.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

LOL. I did a search on yahoo for ls1 adjustable cam sprocket and here is the #1 result from my search.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...99#post6123999

How ironic. Anyways, how did you do it? I thought that the Cloyes and the Comp ones were double roller. Could I put a single chain on a double roller top sprocket? If so, Do you put it on the back teeth or the front teeth? Also, I have heard or clearance issues with a double roller. Is this a problem on the LS2 blocks as well? Will I need to do some grindage on the face of the block behind the sprocket.

eLTwerker

Yeah I'm guilty of thread jacking a few times. Sorry man, didn't stop to think about it before I did it.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I was just messing with ya. I do it all the time.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Well I called Thunder and they are working on it for me. Apparantely it isn't real cut and dry because I am running an LS2 and therefore the cam sensor uses the LS2 Cam sprocket to pick up the cam position. I may end up having to swap the whole chain. I hope that isn't the case because that would mean having to remove the oil pump which means having to drop the pan which means I have to either drop the k-member or lift the motor . This goes from an afternoon job to a full blown all day project.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Well the Cloyes timing chain kit is sitting by m front gate. I will be getting started on this here in the next few minutes. As always I will post pics.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I looked at both cam sprockets and they were identical in terms of dimensions.



I ended up going to 5 degrees advance that yields IVC at 50 and best DCR at about 8.25 or so before going too low on the IVC and lossing the top end that PAtrickg spoke of in a previous post. It took me about 4 hrs as I didn't end up using the adjustable crank sprocket. Didn't have to drop the pan. Also, completely loosened up the valves but I didn't remove them. I left the radiator but removed the fans and the TB forward of the intake tract. It wasn't too bad at all really. I fired it up and took for a test drive. I immediately noticed the improved idle. I could drop my idle from 950 to 900 but I kind of like the real-steady-almost-no-lope feel. I got a full cold start scan w/ hptuners and it threw of the RAF a little bit but not much. I let it warm up and filled the radiator. Once I got it up to 210 (with the fans off), I took her out for a drive (with the fans on). I got on it right a way and it feels like thereis noticabily more torque at all rpms. I cant wait to get it on the dyno again after I get my spark and VE table all dialed in. Hope to have results by next week.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Good report and photos. Time to change your signature and hopefully elevate your torque numbers.

camarokid94

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I Want Results Cause I Just Ordered A 244-248 113+4 For My 11.66 Cr 402 Thats A 8.5 Dcr

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I haven't had a chance to get a dyno run in yet. I did take it to the track and it was very sad. I ran a 12.35 @ 122 MPH. I had to let out 3 times during the pass or I would have hit the wall (I was spinning in every gear but 4th)LOL. Good thing that I left the nitrous bottle at home. Another 150 shot on top of this would not have been good.

Last Friday night I raced a buddy on the street (from a second gear roll) that has a full bolt-on Cobra w/ ported blower and cams and he got me by a fender. I think he runs 126mph or so in the 1/4 and from a roll they are even stronger so I think that with the traction issues resolved, I should be running around 126-127MPH of the juice. I raced another buddy with a Cobra Saturday night and he has full bolt-ons + a whipple with 20psi of boost and got him by a 1/2 a car on a baby 100 shot. He should be in the low 130 MPH range.

Long story short, I now that I picked up a minimum of 20 ft/lb tq at the rear wheels. I will post results ASAP.


After doing some research on traction and talking to Sam Strano, I found that I had over torqued my LCA's and I think that they were binding up. I loosened them up to 80ft/lbs last night and there is alot more give in the rear now. This morning I took the front bumper out and the front sway bar.

Oh, I weighed the car at the track and it weighed 3450 w/o my 330 lbs in it. I took out the bumper and the sway bar so that should probably get me close to 3400 even and that is all weight off the nose.

TigerWoodsJr

awesome, glad the car seems faster, hope you get the traction worked out and i can't wait to see the new dyno #'s, good thread.

camarokid94

iTrader: (2)

i cant wait to see a dyno on this thing