232 cam dyno #'s (stock intake mani)
08-14-2007, 11:26 PM
#21
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I have a slightly smaller cam (228/230) with a pulley and an LS6 intake. See my sig. for a comparison.
Also, don't pay any attention to the e.t. I'm sure the driver is preventing the car from showing its true capabilities.
Also, don't pay any attention to the e.t. I'm sure the driver is preventing the car from showing its true capabilities.
08-15-2007, 06:38 AM
#23
Originally Posted by delsold
A dyno is a tuning tool and there is no comparison factor between differnet dynos. You should stay use the same dyno for ever pull you make that way you know your getting an accurate measurement of gains or losses with different calibrations and modifications. I would also disagree that mustang dynos "read" lower than dyno dynamics. My car baselined 284whp on a mustang and 295whp on the dyno dynamics, and the dd pull was in worse weather! Throw a ls6 intake manifold on, and repull/tune the car on the same dyno dynamics dyno and see what type of gains you made.
And also your 13% math is wrong even if you were doing some bogus calculation saying that dd reads 13% lower than the mustang. Your numbers should have been 352/337 like melchoir said.
Also i dont want to sound like I'm flaming you I'm just saying that you shouldn't use any dyno-dyno corrections just go with the numbers you got. Thats a nice number for the ls1 intake, torque is low but a little lower duration cam might have netted you better torque. My 226/226 made 350whp and 370ft lbs on a dyno dynamics with my ls1 intake and stock pulley.
And also your 13% math is wrong even if you were doing some bogus calculation saying that dd reads 13% lower than the mustang. Your numbers should have been 352/337 like melchoir said.
Also i dont want to sound like I'm flaming you I'm just saying that you shouldn't use any dyno-dyno corrections just go with the numbers you got. Thats a nice number for the ls1 intake, torque is low but a little lower duration cam might have netted you better torque. My 226/226 made 350whp and 370ft lbs on a dyno dynamics with my ls1 intake and stock pulley.
its not "my" math and whatever "bogus calculation" i was given was given to me by someone that knows a little more about dynos than i, so thats what i went with.
08-15-2007, 06:40 AM
#24
Originally Posted by ACCELR8
I have a slightly smaller cam (228/230) with a pulley and an LS6 intake. See my sig. for a comparison.
Also, don't pay any attention to the e.t. I'm sure the driver is preventing the car from showing its true capabilities.
Also, don't pay any attention to the e.t. I'm sure the driver is preventing the car from showing its true capabilities.
08-15-2007, 03:44 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by kyles2000z
so bascailly you're sayin i cant drive. i can drive. tryin to get anything better than mid 8s on the cheapest street tires you could find pretty much aint happening.
NO!!! That's not what I was saying at all. I was trying to say I can't drive. With almost 400 rwhp my car should easily run in the 12.40s, rather than in the high 12.70s. So if your dyno numbers are similar to mine, you'll probably run faster than what's shown in my sig. In other words, I was simply trying to say ignore my et because I can't drive.
08-17-2007, 02:05 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by kyles2000z
yea the best i could get was 8.71 but that was a redlight as well so im guessin around an 8.40 or so. hah the first pass redlighted so bad it was a 9.71 @ 87 LMAO. bet that had some people scratchin their heads.
08-17-2007, 02:29 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by 85Iroc
Absolutely nothing!!
Those are good dyno numbers though. I had a similar cam in one of my f-bodies back in 03' and it worked great.
08-17-2007, 03:17 PM
#31
Originally Posted by AshWS6
Little higher, yeah you could say that, but there are no "correction factors" to convert to a dynojet number. A correction factor is to correct to SAE weather conditions. What they are giving you is their "guess factor" Put it on a dynojet if you want dynojet numbers, otherwise race it and tell eveyone what she runs its way more fun that way 
My cam only cam makes those numbers almost exactly and runs11.3 at 122. I tell people it runs 1.3s and it dynoes 122 mph
My cam only cam makes those numbers almost exactly and runs11.3 at 122. I tell people it runs 1.3s and it dynoes 122 mph dyno #'s are just that dyno #'s, and because of the differences between them it's hard to compare the #'s. i dyno on a mustang for tuning purposes. on the n2o tune my afr, f-13 cammed m6 only makes 388rwhp n/a on it. i would way rather run a 11.3 with 388rwhp than a 11.5 with 411rwhp. the dyno operators told me there was a 16% correction to a dynojet, but there is no way. more like 6-10%. if your car runs good don't worry about dyno #'s. people look at me crazy all the time when i tell them my car makes 388hp n/a, but i promise you it's the stongest 388rwhp car you will ride in.
08-17-2007, 11:27 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Bad Habit Bird
I'm a little confused by this. What does getting a red light or your reaction time have to do with your ET and MPH?
the redlight wasnt triggered when i LEFT the line, it was triggered when my car started rolling backawrds once i staged and let off the break. i think its just about the only time you can redlight and not even be moving forward down the track yet.
08-22-2007, 05:02 PM
#33
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ive dynod both on a dyno dynamics and a mustang dyno..i dynod lower on the dyno dynamics, but only by 7 hp... with 289.4 hp and 282.6..they are basically the same in my opinion
