the throttle not opening all the way will definitely make the car dyno low, it's blocking part of the throttle body, it will flow enough air for the lower rpms but will fall off up top, if that's the case you should have an extra 30+ hp and peak torque might even extend a little further into the rpm range, while keeping that kick *** torque down low.

AJ

 

I had a problem with my throttle cable not pulling the blade all the way open. You can adjust it in that black thing on the front and left of the engine bay all the cables run through, I can't remember what it's called, just pull the cover off and adjust a couple clips.. damn I'm tired.. g'night now...

 

I really think its your fuel pump.

 

98 cards due to the pcm often do not dyno as high but I would not be happy with those #'s

 

Hey man, I'm sure you've had a bunch, but I'll give you another comparison if you're interested since my setup was almost exactly the same as your (this was BEFORE my 12-bolt and heavy driveshaft).

- low stage Patriot ported LS6 heads (SELL the Patriots!), 224/228 .581/.588 113LSA, P&P TB, UD pulley, Pacesetter LTs, TSP high-flow catted-y, Magnaflow CB, SLP CAI and Lid.

Granted I'm a 2002, so I can expect a little bit more, but I put down 405/367 detuned (previous owner was beating on the car so the shop tuned it down so he wouldn't hurt it before breaking it in). Later found out the car was down 19rwhp and 23rwtq from the tune when I got it retuned, but I immediately installed the 12-bolt and driveshaft. Right now, I'm putting down 400/367 through the 12-bolt and driveshaft. So, through the stock drivetrain/rear, you should be able to hit 400 without much issue. The torque doesn't seem too low, but let us know how that WOT problem you discovered works out. Good luck!

 

why did you advance the cam anyways??? Have you thought to go back in and install it straight up dot to dot and see what happens???

 

I will not be working on the car until late winter/spring. Yes, I have thought about installing it dot-to-dot. I advanced it to increase DCR and give it more torque down low. This car is nothing more than a fair weather toy, and I do not race it. Torque down low is what I want. Currently, this is my plan.

1. Check fuel pressure.
2. Install O2 bung on LH side.
3. Get SspdDmon out to check AFR using LH side and tweak tune if he thinks it is necessary.
4. Re-dyno with the crap out of the driver footwell to allow for full peddle travel (WOT).

I am not going to worry about what a dyno says my AFR is. If SspdDmon says it is good, I am satisfied. After re-dynoing, I will re-evaluate.

 

Small update.

Did no further investigation till yesterday. Checked the gap between the TB cam arm and the stop with my thick floor mat covered by a towel (same set up as at dyno). There was a gap of over 1”. That is both silly and a little relieving. Maybe my car is ok. If Sspddmon thinks we should tweak the tune while reading AFR off the LH side, I will see if we can set something up late April or May. Beyond that, I do not think I am going to spend much time investigating my low numbers. Hopefully I can get in on a dyno day somewhere in Spring or early summer and try it again; this time with the !FM (delete floor mat ) mod.

 

the throttle not opening explains everything. if it wasnt opening up then it wasnt only resticting air going in it also wont let it go into PE witch is your WOT fueling, this the reason for your lean AFR. if you still have the tq dip, try pulling timing out of it down low, and ramp it in fast, i have a very similar cam and it liked alot less timing down low than what i had in it street tuning, it would hold much more without knock but made more tq on dyno with lower timing up to peak tq then ramped it in for peak power.

 

this was my first thought when looking at the afr befor reading anything, looked as if it wasnt entering PE(wot fueling) then you figured it out be for i got to the end of the thread.lol

 

The two preseeding posts have pretty much hit it on the head...not getting to PE will cause the symptoms you are experiencing...I would not run with the advance on that cam ... run it straight up or better yet degree it if you really want to know where your at..you should peak at 6300 rpms ... you have the right combination of parts to be in the mid 400 HP range..get the floor mats and towel out of the way and I bet the next time you put it on the dyno your results will be much different....get your street tune straightened out and that surging will be gone and you will love the way that this car drives..I am really pleased with the way mine runs..