Dyno Results With MS3
Dude, your A/F is all over the place. Checking the duty cycle can be done when there tuning it or you need your own software. As far as the plugs go you can run a few different types. I run TR6 @ 35, I run those cause I spray here and there but my motor runs pretty good NA as well. You could TR5 for a hotter plug for NA use.
So you said, it doesn't seem like it has a big cam and may not be the MS3 on your first post...I would have to agree. But even with a 224/580 cam you should see mid 380's on motor.
So you said, it doesn't seem like it has a big cam and may not be the MS3 on your first post...I would have to agree. But even with a 224/580 cam you should see mid 380's on motor.
Yeah, you should definitely be dynoing in fourth gear. You won't get accurate results in third. Also, everyone else is right. A MS3 with bolt-ons should put you at minimum in the 380 range on a dynojet. I wouldn't expect to see much lower than 360-365 on a mustang dyno, either. Something's up. Good luck with it.
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1) 4th gear is 1:1, it will give you the accurate numbers.
2) Just because your injector duty cycle is maxxed out, it doesn't mean your injectors are. All it means is that to supply the neccessary fuel, your injector is held open for the entire combustion cycle. Combined with your A/F being all over the place, and the IDC capping, I would have put a fuel pressure guage on it. I would bet dollars to donuts that you are seeing a massive fuel pressure drop at WoT, and that is why your injectors are being told to stay open so long. You might want to look into replacing the worn out fuel pump, upgrading the wiring to the pump, and replacing the filter.
3) Get it retuned when the fuel problem is sorted, and bring the A/F down to 12.6-12.8 at WoT.
2) Just because your injector duty cycle is maxxed out, it doesn't mean your injectors are. All it means is that to supply the neccessary fuel, your injector is held open for the entire combustion cycle. Combined with your A/F being all over the place, and the IDC capping, I would have put a fuel pressure guage on it. I would bet dollars to donuts that you are seeing a massive fuel pressure drop at WoT, and that is why your injectors are being told to stay open so long. You might want to look into replacing the worn out fuel pump, upgrading the wiring to the pump, and replacing the filter.
3) Get it retuned when the fuel problem is sorted, and bring the A/F down to 12.6-12.8 at WoT.
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you guys gave me a lot of info on what i need to look into fixing. so thats what im gonna do. ill get all that **** checked out and then try to get it retuned. and the guy that tuned it and did my rear end said even with the smallest ms3 cam, it would sound lopier than what it does. so he thinks something else is in there. so im gonna try to get in contact with the original owner and see if he can give me some info. once again i appreciate all the helpful info and i will get the **** checked and fixed. it might take a while because im tight on money for now. later folks.
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ok folks. tomorrow i am going to be replacing the spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, and if i have enough money i really want to change the oil. in fact i might just do it anyway. im gonna put some german 0w30 in there. ive been reading up on here about it and from what i have seen, quite a few people run it in theirs. so im gonna see if that helps a little bit. and ive been hearing a ticking noise like an exhaust leak, but i cant find anything. so ive been searching on here and ruled out a few possibilities, but it might be an egr valve seal from what ive read, so i will check that out tomorrow. maybe when i change the oil it will go away, but we'll see. and also in the very back of the driver side engine, to the right of the intake and above the valve covers, is a black rubber hose that is almost cut in half, its held on by just a little piece of the rubber. i will post a pic tomorrow so maybe someone can tell me what it is. i thought maybe pcv, but im really not sure. oh, and im gonna throw some fuel injector cleaner in there.
Last edited by badazz99ta; Dec 26, 2007 at 07:43 AM.
I don't think your curve is that bad. Factor in the 3rd gear pull, Mustang dyno and 4.10's. I wouldn't start throwing parts at it, fix your major problems first (rear and tranny) then re-dyno the car. Some tuners use 3rd gear (2nd on an auto) for tuning. It just doesn't provide a comparative number for bragging rights.
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well since the dyno i have got the rear end fixed and put in 4.10s. so at the time of the dyno i had the 3.73s. and i forgot to add that when the guy fixed my rear end, which was the same guy that tuned and dynoed it, said that the last run WAS a 4th gear hp run. so all but the 1st and last run were in 3rd gear. but im gonna get the before mentioned **** taken care of and see if i can see any difference. and when i get some money saved up i wanna dyno tune it again.
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ok. i just got done putting the plugs and wires in, changing the oil with gc 0w30 and mobil 1 oil filter, changed the fuel filter, and i have a bottle of fuel injector cleaner that im gonna put in tomorrow before i get my tank filled up. i havent driven it yet since it is some pretty shity weather here in south arkansas, but just by starting it up i can tell a difference. when i rev it up to 3k it doesnt have that raspy sound when i let of. i cant wait to take it for a drive tomorrow and see if i can tell a difference. and i was gonna do the !AIR and !EGR, but they were already off of the car, so that was nice. oh, and it also fixed my ticking noise. i didnt hear it at all. it felt good to hear a clean sounding engine. so now my next step is to get an ls6 intake and some 32# fuel injectors and then get it dyno tuned again. but that will take a few months to do all that stuff. thanks everybody for giving me some really good info and pointers on what i needed to take car of. yall were a lot of help. hope everyone has a happy new year.
I'm pretty sure there is only one MS3 cam. The 3 is the version. There are a few different versions of the Magic Stick, the most popular being version 3 and version 4, but unless they updated each version, which would be weird, there is only one spec for each version. And even if they did make slight changes to each version, your guy is right; you would definitely hear any MS3 that was in the car when compared to the stock cam. The difference would be huge.
I would do a pull on the dyno again or if they saved a log and look at you timing and manifold pressure. check to see if it drops at higher rpms. I think that numer is a little lowaccording to your mods and if your duty cycle is high check your fuel filter. 28s definately dont max out at that level
And I thought my TSP 231/237 stalled A4 was low at 353 rwhp unlocked with an LS1 intake. LS6 intake is awaiting installation along with my Spohn adj. TQ arm.
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Last edited by 02 BLK WS6; Dec 27, 2007 at 09:14 AM.
To the OP, your A/F is all over the place, not sure who tuned it but theres no way i would hand a car back to a customer with a tune that bad, get it to someone who knows what they are doing and get it retuned asap
THis is what your car should sound like. This is my MS4:http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...t=VCLP0067.flv
ALso you should be revving it to 6700 atleast for a pull bc you could tell that it was still climbing. Also it should be in 4th gear.
Like said above get a fuel pressure guage on it and see what kind of pressure your getting. Have you upgraded your fuel pump? Like a Walbro or anything? Also have you ever changed the fuel filter?
ALso you should be revving it to 6700 atleast for a pull bc you could tell that it was still climbing. Also it should be in 4th gear.
Like said above get a fuel pressure guage on it and see what kind of pressure your getting. Have you upgraded your fuel pump? Like a Walbro or anything? Also have you ever changed the fuel filter?
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what i meant by smaller version of the ms3 is, it comes in different lsa's. so even on the smallest lsa it would sound lopier than mine. and i havent upgraded the fuel filter, but i did replace it yesterday. as well as some other things as posted above. and i asked the guy that tuned it and he said that the last run WAS in 4th gear. and is revving to 6700 safe with a stock bottom end. and i have to wait till i get some money to get her tuned again. so maybe after tax season.
Mine is on a 111.5 LSA. Also as long as you replaced the filter then your fine on that. Your pump could definitely be on its way out. Yes 6700 will be safe on the bottom end on just a few dyno pulls. I know people who are spinning past 7k on the stock bottom end. I would advise you not to do that but jsut telling you it has been done. As for you i would set your shift point at prob 6600 unless you have upgraded the rod bolts which is what most people do to spin them that high.