02 z28 camaro bone stock dyno results
#42
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i was told (may not be true) that you can look at your tire ratings on the stickers inside the door jams and see what package your car came with stock; my 2000 M6 Z28 came with the H rated or Z rated I don't remember and I rode my suzuki today so I can't check, but a guy that used to work up in Michigan in the auto industry that bought my old suzuki from me took a look at it and said they programmed the LS1's according to the tire packages that came on them from the factory; mine and possibly this one had the good package and came with a good tune, possibly leading to more power...
OP, whats your tire package on the sticker??
OP, whats your tire package on the sticker??
#43
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I only dyno cars for tuning or sometimes just to test mods, so I personnally am not in the habit of throwing a stock car on the dyno... I'd spend that money on speed parts and then dyno it after installation of said parts.
Anyway, my '99 M6 Z28 put down 323/340 at the wheels on a dyno jet with a handfull of bolt ons: UD pulley, SLP lid, smooth bellows, FTRA (prolly no help on the dyno), Cat-back, 160 T-stat, and free mods. I also had a Hyertech programmer and did a couple pulls with the programming in the PCM and a few on stock PCM tune. The Hypertech actually did help.
The car now has long tubes, ORY, and a P/P TB. Getting an LS6 intake, 28.8 injectors and a full PCM tune soon. Should put down a good bit more than previously!
#44
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this guy sounds a lil like vin diesel and the car cant be bone stock, pretty sure i read about this car on another board and it had a few lil things done here and there. and was this car dyno tuned? also the car has a k&N intake if its the car i saw on the other boards, not a stock location filter. pretty sure it has headers or some exhuast work.
either way you should be measuring how much weight you have or havn't pulled out of it if your trying to make a fast bolton car dont rely on dyno #'s
either way you should be measuring how much weight you have or havn't pulled out of it if your trying to make a fast bolton car dont rely on dyno #'s
#45
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this guy sounds a lil like vin diesel and the car cant be bone stock, pretty sure i read about this car on another board and it had a few lil things done here and there. and was this car dyno tuned? also the car has a k&N intake if its the car i saw on the other boards, not a stock location filter. pretty sure it has headers or some exhuast work.
either way you should be measuring how much weight you have or havn't pulled out of it if your trying to make a fast bolton car dont rely on dyno #'s
either way you should be measuring how much weight you have or havn't pulled out of it if your trying to make a fast bolton car dont rely on dyno #'s
whos car are we talking about? if mine, i have already stated i have a few bolt ons as it says it right there in my sig.....and no tune ever has been done, and only spare tire taken out.... but you may have been talking to another person, if so sorry
#46
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no i was talking about you but im getting the two confused i guess oh well
#47
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Stock my 2000 made 306.5 and 311.5 with 90 degree heat. This was back in May of 2000 being only a few months old. It's cool that the previous owner kept everything including dyno's after progressivly doing mods. Haven't dyno'd it myself since I want to actually do something and get a tune while I'm at it.
#49
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"Bone stock" means ABSOLUTELY NOTHING DONE to the car; ie stock tires (no drag radials), stock lid, stock manifolds and exhaust with NO cutout, etc, etc, etc.
Bone stock means it's exactly the same as it came out of the factory. This issue is the reason we have "factory freaks" out there running mid-12s at 110 in "bone stock" form (referring to LS1 Fbodies, of course).
There should be a freakin sticky about this at the top of the list in every forum on the site (and every other car site, as well).
#51
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ya, i know what ya mean.....guys gotta understand the lingo before saying stuff..... to me bone stock means nothing done right off the showroom floor, might can get away with a factory K&N filter but thats it...
but "stock" can also mean no aftermarket internals, cam, or heads...... but then have mild bolt ons cause once you have been doing cars for a while you dont want to sound like you think you have a race car just cause you put some headers, and a catback on ya know..... so guys still say "stock" which i concider my LS1 a fairly stock car with mild bolt ons..... some might have different views and opinions on this, but does anyone kinda agree with what i think is bone stock and stock?
but "stock" can also mean no aftermarket internals, cam, or heads...... but then have mild bolt ons cause once you have been doing cars for a while you dont want to sound like you think you have a race car just cause you put some headers, and a catback on ya know..... so guys still say "stock" which i concider my LS1 a fairly stock car with mild bolt ons..... some might have different views and opinions on this, but does anyone kinda agree with what i think is bone stock and stock?
#54
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keep in mind we are talking about different dynos, different climates, elevation......ect ect numbers arent always gonna be the same or even close at times, but that dont mean they are off..... and then as hopfully we all know the numbers dont mean squat anyways, its just fun to see the difference when you add something and strap it back on the same dyno to see what gains are made..... the hell with trying to compair to different engines and dynos all over USA lol
#55
hey guys i thought this thread was dead lol. i have k&n filter and thats all. the weather was absolutely perfect the day i id this and i spent the 40 dollars on the two pulls to get a baseline. thats for the smartass that said id spend the money on something else. sorry. had to get that out. i looked at the weather corrections numbers and usually they are higher or whatever mine were lower than what i put down so that can tell you how the weather was. im in east texas btw. im not trying to **** anybody off with this post i just wanted to see what people had to say. now that i know that its bs or not possible then maybe you should come down and dyno on this dyno and see how your numbers are. its not the greatest thing in the world but its the closest thing within an hour. i have no reason to lie about whats done to my car. and those of you that have said dyno numbers are useless in the sense of trying to find out what you run your right. you can have an 10 second car but if you dont have the supporting suspension to hook up it doesnt make a f***. i just wanted to throw all this out in the open for people to clear things up. im going to run my car in a little over a week to see what she does i will post the numbers up. ive got a lid on the way tho so it wont be bonestock anymore. i am gettin a cutout on monday also. so it wont be stock. we will see where it goes from there. im sorry if i pissed someone off or stepped on toes. thanks for the interest everybody.
#56
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Too high for a Mustang dyno - their calibration is off... stock M6 just made 305 on our Mustang dyno yesterday... 285 to 310 is what I would say to be normal for bone stock on a Mustang.
#58
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well, i might as well add fuel to the fire, my lt1 put down 274whp (don't remember the torque) on the same dyno as the OP, now i have headers, was running about 3' of pipe out the sides, cai, ewp, and all the free mods. In saying so i think that dyno was just about right on....
#60
hey guys. sorry i havent been around today with easter and all. i just figured out that my numbers with the load on the tires are 297rwhp and 302rwtq. the other numbers were with no load on the tires. hopefully this will set you guys straight and let you believe the car is actually stock lol. thanks for all the interest and i am gonna run the car in a couple weeks i might put on some drag radials but not sure yet. again thanks for all the interst and im sorry about the numbers thing. i checked into it and i got inflated numbers or whatever.
Last edited by Tuner@Straightline; 03-28-2008 at 11:44 AM.