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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:05 AM
  #61  
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I watched Shawn's black transam go from making 490 rw to 430 and running like ****, they took the slp 85mm off and put a stock one back on and whamo the car made 497. It GAINED power by putting a stock untouched maf on the car, so what's that tell ya?

Honestly if I thought there was anything to putting a bigger one on I would have, but I already know better.

After next year's break, there will be some big changes to the car, one of them is going to be a BS3 computer system. At that point the car's getting SD tuned and the maf is gonna exit stage left, there's gonna be the TB there, and that's it. No filter, no lid, nothing.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
After next year's break, there will be some big changes to the car, one of them is going to be a BS3 computer system. At that point the car's getting SD tuned and the maf is gonna exit stage left, there's gonna be the TB there, and that's it. No filter, no lid, nothing.
Or you could do that. I'd STILL be curious about the MAF, though.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:19 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I watched Shawn's black transam go from making 490 rw to 430 and running like ****, they took the slp 85mm off and put a stock one back on and whamo the car made 497. It GAINED power by putting a stock untouched maf on the car, so what's that tell ya?
Clearly there was a major issue there. Was it a new MAF or did he buy it used? Who was doing the tuning? Did they load the wrong tune or something? Was it retuned for the bigger MAF?

If I were to install a 92/92 setup on my car tomorrow and it dynoed 330rwhp, then we put the stock LS6 intake/TB on and it went back to current numbers, would you start telling people not to install a 92 setup on their cars? Obviously not. You'd start looking for the person who screwed something up or looking more closely at the parts to see if they were faulty. You wouldn't assume that all 92mm intakes and throttle bodies were bad and that it's just a bad mod to do in general.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:19 AM
  #64  
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Eeh, once the BS3 is in the car the SD is so easy to work with there's no need for it.

All ya really need for the BS3 to work right is an IAT sensor, MAP sensor, crank sensor and a coolant temp sensor and that's about it.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:23 AM
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Shawn's car ran great when he got it, it had the maf on it already, but everything on the car was pretty much brand new. The maf started screwing up, so he swapped on a new stock one, and problems went away, and it made more power then what it made when he first got it

It was making like 465 when he got it, they retuned it and it made 490, the maf started screwing up, with the bad maf it only made like 445, then he put the stock one back on and it went up to 497.

That to me, is a classic story of a slp maf dying, then putting a stock one back on and the power was the same as it was when the bigger one was working.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Eeh, once the BS3 is in the car the SD is so easy to work with there's no need for it.

All ya really need for the BS3 to work right is an IAT sensor, MAP sensor, crank sensor and a coolant temp sensor and that's about it.
That is freakin sweet.
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Shawn's car ran great when he got it, it had the maf on it already, but everything on the car was pretty much brand new. The maf started screwing up, so he swapped on a new stock one, and problems went away, and it made more power then what it made when he first got it

It was making like 465 when he got it, they retuned it and it made 490, the maf started screwing up, with the bad maf it only made like 445, then he put the stock one back on and it went up to 497.

That to me, is a classic story of a slp maf dying, then putting a stock one back on and the power was the same as it was when the bigger one was working.
Ah, from the way you told it, it sounded like HE put the MAF on after he already had the car.

All this said, I'm STILL curious about your car.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:39 AM
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It's something the world will never know LOL.

I have a good list of changes that's gonna get done before it comes back out again... about another 10 grand worth LOL.

But, it will be 250 lbs lighter, and I'll be hitting it with another 100 hp of nitrous When I get it back out, I'll be in the hunt for an 8 second timeslip, just so I can say I did it. By then there will have been probably 1000 people that have done it with nitrous on an lsx platform, but I don't care, I still would like to do it. At that point, I dunno what's gonna be next.

Initial thought: 69 camaro race car.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
It's something the world will never know LOL.

I have a good list of changes that's gonna get done before it comes back out again... about another 10 grand worth LOL.

But, it will be 250 lbs lighter, and I'll be hitting it with another 100 hp of nitrous When I get it back out, I'll be in the hunt for an 8 second timeslip, just so I can say I did it. By then there will have been probably 1000 people that have done it with nitrous on an lsx platform, but I don't care, I still would like to do it. At that point, I dunno what's gonna be next.

Initial thought: 69 camaro race car.
Next would be to see how much it would cost to put it all back to stock.

Or better yet, throw a six-speed in it and see what kind of times you can crank out rowing the gears.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 12:06 PM
  #69  
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I'd guess, if I get the car to an 8.xx with the TH400, I am pretty sure I could get a 9 second slip out of it with a stick in the car, I'm not that bad at rowing, I just don't like fixing **** all the time like you guys are doing at 1/2 the speed I'm going now.

Honestly I have no intrest in putting it back to stock, that doesn't intrest me in the least bit. I like going fast, right now I'm gonna say, that if I could replace the car with a 69 camaro that's built to the same level of detail/attenion that I put into this car I'd do it.


When I'm finally tired of this car, that's gonna be the next car that I already know. What's gonna power it I haven't decided yet, but I know it's gonna be a 25.2 car that sits down in the weeds with a big *** tire on it that 60 foots in the 1.1x range. That's all I know at this point.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 03:58 PM
  #70  
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Not realy sure why you are running a MAF at all with that car. Sounds like a race car to me and the MAF is piontless. A good tuner does a full SD tune then dials in the MAF anyhow.

I have been tempted to go A3 to see what the car can do for a season. If you want to be fast and consistant, that is the way to go. The only downfall is you have to pick a TC that is ideal for your needs. If you like to run NA and N2O, you will sacrifice one or the other or both.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 09:25 PM
  #71  
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I had to pull the resister out of my slp Maf. that is the only difference from a truck Maf. put a 05 truck maf and copy the calibration from the truck to my car and mine runs great.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by BADSZ28
Not realy sure why you are running a MAF at all with that car. Sounds like a race car to me and the MAF is piontless. A good tuner does a full SD tune then dials in the MAF anyhow.

I have been tempted to go A3 to see what the car can do for a season. If you want to be fast and consistant, that is the way to go. The only downfall is you have to pick a TC that is ideal for your needs. If you like to run NA and N2O, you will sacrifice one or the other or both.
I know that you see MUCH faster ETs with an auto typically, but there's no reason you shouldn't be very consistent with an M6. Last track rental I went to, every one of my runs was an 11.9X except for one 11.89 that I snuck in and one 12.00 because my line lock didn't hold and I spun a little more, but that's after 10 or so runs. And my previous track rental was the same thing, only a TON of 12.0s, one 11.99, and one or two 12.1s, and I got about 13 runs in that day. But every run on both days was within .12 seconds from quickest to slowest.

I see no reason why a decent driver shouldn't be very consistent with an M6. Slower ET? Yes. Inconsistent? No.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 01:57 PM
  #73  
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If the stock fbody MAF is best then why did GM put a bigger one on the 6.0 trucks and one without a screen in the Z06's?
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 02:13 PM
  #74  
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Change it and see what happens.
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 09:03 AM
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I plan on it at some point, but that'll probably be after a set of heads. Either way that still doesn't answer my question though. Why would GM go through the trouble of switching to different parts if the originial ones were the best there is?
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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There was no point, it doesn't matter.
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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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I get to the track maybe 3 times a year. Most of the time I get maybe 4-5 passes each time. Hardly enough time to get the most out of the car. Not to mention the launch RPM. With a 6 speed unless you have a 2-step you are going to be hard pressed to get the same rpm every run on launch. Typically I go faster each run which is great, but from time to time I over launch the car and spin or under and bog. Either case is a botched run. Not to mention reaction time. With the auto you just punch it. No ballancing or rpm chasing. When I get a track day where I can make 8-10 passes I can be consistant and even start to dial in reaction. Also, with A3 you are eliminating missed gears. I don't do it often, but when I do the run is garbage and a waist of gas/tires. There are other headaches I would like to avoid too but I think I have made my point. Anyhow, I like the stick on the street and am determined to get the best out of the car with the stick so I will not be switching any time soon.

Originally Posted by PewterScreaminMach
I know that you see MUCH faster ETs with an auto typically, but there's no reason you shouldn't be very consistent with an M6. Last track rental I went to, every one of my runs was an 11.9X except for one 11.89 that I snuck in and one 12.00 because my line lock didn't hold and I spun a little more, but that's after 10 or so runs. And my previous track rental was the same thing, only a TON of 12.0s, one 11.99, and one or two 12.1s, and I got about 13 runs in that day. But every run on both days was within .12 seconds from quickest to slowest.

I see no reason why a decent driver shouldn't be very consistent with an M6. Slower ET? Yes. Inconsistent? No.
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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 01:03 PM
  #78  
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EEh, if you like to fix your car leave the stick in it. If you like to be able to hammer it when you want and have it run a #, a good automatic is hard to beat. Repeatability too, also hard to beat.

I do like stick setups, but it's got to be a liberty, lenco, bruno, etc.
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