Rocco1005

Ive got a 6 speed, hows the best to launch in this?

King02SS

With a 6-speed from the runs I've seen made in these I wouldn't dump the clutch over 1500rpm. Unless you've got a really good street and/or have alot of faith in your tires. But I don't personally own a six speed and haven't raced with a six speed LS1 car before. I do know that traction on the street is everyones enemy. You might just try going out at 2am when noones out and take off hard from a few of the lights where you cruise. Just watch out for cops.

Aries

on drag radials (Nitto's or BFG's) Heat them until you see smoke and then stop. Launch it at the highest RPM you can without spinning

It takes some practice to get the car to launch good, but it will pay off in the end

Vendetta

Ahh, gotta love the noobs!

02PHOENIX

Precisely, King. No more than 1500 or !! Rev, dump, and WOT! Know the condition of your tires, if they're fairly old you might have to adjust.
Before I got my new tires on, I went and f'ed around with my bro.
Spun through like half of first it seemed like, at a 1500 launch.
Got the new ones on, and at 1500, it was just hook and go!
As far as the DR's go. Most of the time I get a run, it's at a light. I wouldn't heat'em up for fear of drawing more attention than the run already will.
But if it was set up, and in a hidden place. Burn, baby, burn.

02PHOENIX

Jerk.

Excal

umm...u obviously sound young.

Import domestic shootout..this is what i saw.

couple of high 10 sec rx-7s, coulbe of low 10 sec guttd civic turbos (you'll never see those in the street, these were trailer-hogs), 3000gts run like lt-1s, it's just they pull it up top.

turbo AWD DSMs can be made 11 sec with sufficient ease (not $)

few things out there will beat a single turbo supra in the highway... like a single turbo v8 lol.
u can always stuff them into 240sxs...

SO the engine is not that hard to get at all..u may not have the AWD of a GTR, but u still have the OVERBUILT monster straight 6.

but again u'll likely never meet a skyline. WRX STIS...13 sec cars that are boosted, which means just upping the boost you will see gains.

regular WRXs are cake.

x phantom x

iTrader: (14)

King ... you realize in your auto when you put it in 3rd it is exactly the same as having it in D ... it will do the EXACT same things until it gets to the point where it would normally shift to 4th, which it won't do if you have it in 3. Mentally you might think it is helping you out, but that's about it. That's the same as the people who put it in 1, then "manually shift" to 2, then "manually shift" to 3, etc. Doing any of those things will not help you win a race, just hurt your transmission (trust me, I found out the hard way with my old A4 TA).

Put the car in D, and go. That's it.

BigBronco

iTrader: (2)

you will actually have slower ets doing that king, and will ruin the tranny faster. so just keep it in D it in MOST cases will work out better

MillaTK

Yeah, i gotta agree with Phantom and Bronco on that one King.

bigoneZ28

We have a high 10/low 11 Skyline R33 GTR running around here. Also there was a R33 GTS (2wd) with RB26DETT engine reportedly making around 800 rwhp. It crashed a few week ago during an exhibition run. The tyres broke loose(again) around 75 mph and it spun off the road.

There lots of the R33 GTS (2wd, RB25DET) Skylines over here, just as common as a F-body.
We have them imported straight from Japan....they are giving them away in Japan....about USD 8.5 - 10K for a 1997 R33 GTS


The Skyline has remarkable potential...especially the RB26DETT ...one of the most overbuilt engines manufactured.

Watch out for a GTR Skyline...it could embarrass the average f-body without much effort

Turnin'LT4

iTrader: (1)

Back home there is an early 80's nissan sentra that is rusting, white, and with steel black rims. He runs low 10's. The only give away is the 3.5 in. pipe that comes out right behind the right front tire. He also has slicks on the front with the M/T washed off them. He ***** around and tries to pull the rear wheels off the ground when he is in reverse. It is pretty funny. He hustles alot of vipers and saleens. It is funny to go watch.

unit213

Where's that **** on rice smilie?

Let me know when you see Skyline's running next to John Force. Until then...

It's Friday night boys, time to

bigoneZ28

Let me know when you see Skyline's running next to John Force. Until then...

Ouch...that hurts....but John Force = average F-body?

BigBronco

iTrader: (2)

yes all top fuels are equal to F-bods and broncos. you should know that you fool!

Vendetta

Did Somebody Use That Booze Smiley? Yeahhhhhh!@!321

02PHOENIX

I tried explaining this to a friends brother, but he was dead set in his ways. Would not budge. I felt like . Stupid kids. Oh well, maybe it'll click when he's putting in a new tranny.

Skarecrow

now i don't do this, but i'm curious as to why it would damage the transmission to "shift it manually"... can you explain why?

the way i understand it, with today's modern electronic transmissions, the tranny is doing all work, and being told when to do it by the computer. the computer tells the tranny "hey, it's time to shift from 2nd to 3rd" and the tranny does so. the computer says "hey, it's time to shift from 4th to 2nd" and the tranny does so. what's the difference if i use the stick to tell the tranny myself to shift? whether it receives the signal to shift from me, or from the computer, it's going to do the same thing regardless. it's not like the lever in an automatic actually connects to something major inside the tranny, does it? not like a manual i mean... you could switch to f1 paddle style shifting without too much trouble cause it's all electronic, right?

x phantom x

iTrader: (14)

.
You're correct about the electronic shift part, but the rest is off. Allow me to explain.

1. Shifting an auto "manually" from 1st-2nd (lets say) is not actually telling the tranny to shift from 1st-2nd at that exact moment ... and the computer will still rev out first gear to where it would have and then shift anyways.
For example ... start at like a 25mph roll in "2nd" gear, go WOT in 2nd, and allow the engine to spin up to 4,500 rpms ... then "shift" it into 3rd while maintaining WOT, and you will watch the RPMs continue to rise until around 6g's when it will shift to 3rd, just as it would've if you had it in D.

Now, for the damage part. Auto cars don't have a rev limiter like a manual does, so if you throw it in first, forget to shift you will soon be pushin 6500+rpms and be left with some bent pushrods and other misc. engine parts broken. Take this from someone who just got done replacing pushrods on a friends A4 Z28 since he liked to shift manually.
There was also some other reason why manually shifting an auto is bad in these cars ... but I forget what it is.

Skarecrow

er, i'm pretty sure you're wrong on both counts phantom. at least when you try and apply it to all electronic transmissions. perhaps it's true of GM stuff, but...

my mustang had a "weak link" SOMEWHERE in the chain where occasionally it would resist shifting into 2nd gear. if i put the pedal down, it would rev hard in first until i hit the rev limiter (and you KNOW when you hit the rev limiter. 5750rpm i believe, but it may have been lower) then just bounce off that and eventually shift into 3rd. if i gave it only a little throttle, it would continue accelerating in first until i got up to about 30mph and then dump into 3rd. it was a tremendous pain in the ***, but it was so infrequent that every time i was pressed to go get it fixed, it would stop doing it for annother two months and i'd forget about it. well, on days when it was being a bitch, and it was raining or something, i wanted a smooth shift from first into second and sure enough, if i put the shifter in "1", took off in that, and shifted into "2" when i felt appropriate, it changed gears pretty much instantly.

like i said, perhaps GM stuff works differently, but ford does have a rev limiter and will change gears when you move the shifter lever. hmm.