Cheapest way to build a Mustang killer?!?
11-27-2009, 09:05 AM
#21
Thats a basic susp. list
but I dont want to add 1K in suspension **** and then have it all rust in one season.
The list that homerunhtr21 listed is $1125, but you have konis already so lets drop that to $325 which leaves $2175 for other mods. I will add to the list.
Lca Relocation Brackets--75
Adj PHB--125
Lca--125
UMI 3 point subframe connectors (bolt in)--300
LS6 intake manifold--300
p/p throttle body--$110 with core exchange from PTB
head work (you don't need to get new rockers or pushrods yet)--free
BrakePackage2LS1 from Strano parts--$500
pacesetter headers-$475
magnaflow muffler $100
total for my additions $1785
$390 left over
when you save some more money get a 12 bolt rear end and put some good tires on those z06 rims.
11-27-2009, 10:03 AM
#22
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For the subframe connectors I'm going to get the SLP Weld-on 3 point subframe connectors ($265). Have any experience with those? I like the 3-pt setup vs. just bolt on tubular or boxed ones. The LCA's and the PHB I am getting for sure.
The intake I can find local on Craigslist, or buy a new one on ebay. Throttle body done local at my buddy's head shop (free or really cheap). The brake package seems like a worthwhile investment, didnt even think about the brakes but that would certainly be worth it. Headers are on the way from Texas-Speed.com. And I personally like the 80 series flowmaster with an x-pipe. I will probably get a line-lock too because I plan to occasionally run this at the track. Should go nicely with my new B&M short throw shifter my buddy gave me for $45 out of his 99' (Car hit a guard rail at 145, and he only bit his tounge). Pypes makes a x-over with two dumps so I might splurge and go for that with electric cutouts from Summit (I have some store credit there so that wont too much into the 2500 budget). Here is the link to that crossover if anyone wants to check it out: http://www.pypesexhaust.com/xchange.html
The 12-bolt from moser seems like a solid upgrade once I get some funds. It sits on almost new BFG t/a KDW's now, which are REALLY grippy and sticky. I plan on putting the same tire on the new rims, we just have to see how good they hold up with miles and burnouts
UMI 3 point subframe connectors (bolt in)--300
LS6 intake manifold--300
p/p throttle body--$110 with core exchange from PTB
head work (you don't need to get new rockers or pushrods yet)--free
BrakePackage2LS1 from Strano parts--$500
pacesetter headers-$475
magnaflow muffler $100
LS6 intake manifold--300
p/p throttle body--$110 with core exchange from PTB
head work (you don't need to get new rockers or pushrods yet)--free
BrakePackage2LS1 from Strano parts--$500
pacesetter headers-$475
magnaflow muffler $100
The 12-bolt from moser seems like a solid upgrade once I get some funds. It sits on almost new BFG t/a KDW's now, which are REALLY grippy and sticky. I plan on putting the same tire on the new rims, we just have to see how good they hold up with miles and burnouts
Last edited by FasterTheBetter92; 11-27-2009 at 10:13 AM.
11-27-2009, 10:50 AM
#23
I would do the basic suspension stuff first so that when the HP is added you really feel it, but I dont want to add 1K in suspension **** and then have it all rust in one season....Does your 3.23 really give it a kick in the ***? I was considering a 3.73 myself.
the 3.23's are good for autos. you have a 6 speed so yours are already 3.42's. i'd just leave those in there and upgrade when you do the rear. taller gears in the stock rear make it even easier to grenade.
11-27-2009, 11:21 AM
#24
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I got ya...I had an 8.5" 10 bolt in my Yukon and in 25K miles I blew 2 ring and pinion's pulling out of a 7-11 and a Home Depot. That 12-bolt swap is quickly becoming one of my must haves and Moser has a bolt in kit for around 2000. After talking with my head guy, he recommended to sell the stock heads and put on a pair of the Patriot heads. I'll probably do that for the $800 or so bucks its gonna cost. They are really reliable and seem to yield about 70 hp gains with the right tune.
11-27-2009, 01:53 PM
#25
I don't have any experience with the slp 3 point weld on subframe connectors. I have used the UMI 3 point bolt ins, which is why I suggested them. Its your choice. New heads aren't a bad idea, and you can still have them ported and polished if you want. I am not a big fan of pypes since they don't have the hangers or anything. I put flowmasters on my dads '68 camaro, two different types, and he hated them. Then i put dynomax mufflers on it and he didn't like those either, then I got magnaflows for it and they got the thumbs up. I am also running magnaflow on my 99 TA. I think flowmasters have a drone that I don't like, but it's your choice. The Moser 12 bolt is great, just make sure you read all the directions for it.
Do not do a burnout on street tires before you race. It makes them slippery. You can turn them over once, but a burnout is not recomended. Unless you just do it to look cool...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw3DjeJzJvQ thats me in my dads camaro. You can see my old pos 5.0 mustang at 16 seconds. I hated that car.
Do not do a burnout on street tires before you race. It makes them slippery. You can turn them over once, but a burnout is not recomended. Unless you just do it to look cool...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw3DjeJzJvQ thats me in my dads camaro. You can see my old pos 5.0 mustang at 16 seconds. I hated that car.
11-27-2009, 03:31 PM
#27
For the subframe connectors I'm going to get the SLP Weld-on 3 point subframe connectors ($265). Have any experience with those? I like the 3-pt setup vs. just bolt on tubular or boxed ones. The LCA's and the PHB I am getting for sure.
The intake I can find local on Craigslist, or buy a new one on ebay. Throttle body done local at my buddy's head shop (free or really cheap). The brake package seems like a worthwhile investment, didnt even think about the brakes but that would certainly be worth it. Headers are on the way from Texas-Speed.com. And I personally like the 80 series flowmaster with an x-pipe. I will probably get a line-lock too because I plan to occasionally run this at the track. Should go nicely with my new B&M short throw shifter my buddy gave me for $45 out of his 99' (Car hit a guard rail at 145, and he only bit his tounge). Pypes makes a x-over with two dumps so I might splurge and go for that with electric cutouts from Summit (I have some store credit there so that wont too much into the 2500 budget). Here is the link to that crossover if anyone wants to check it out: http://www.pypesexhaust.com/xchange.html
The 12-bolt from moser seems like a solid upgrade once I get some funds. It sits on almost new BFG t/a KDW's now, which are REALLY grippy and sticky. I plan on putting the same tire on the new rims, we just have to see how good they hold up with miles and burnouts
The intake I can find local on Craigslist, or buy a new one on ebay. Throttle body done local at my buddy's head shop (free or really cheap). The brake package seems like a worthwhile investment, didnt even think about the brakes but that would certainly be worth it. Headers are on the way from Texas-Speed.com. And I personally like the 80 series flowmaster with an x-pipe. I will probably get a line-lock too because I plan to occasionally run this at the track. Should go nicely with my new B&M short throw shifter my buddy gave me for $45 out of his 99' (Car hit a guard rail at 145, and he only bit his tounge). Pypes makes a x-over with two dumps so I might splurge and go for that with electric cutouts from Summit (I have some store credit there so that wont too much into the 2500 budget). Here is the link to that crossover if anyone wants to check it out: http://www.pypesexhaust.com/xchange.html
The 12-bolt from moser seems like a solid upgrade once I get some funds. It sits on almost new BFG t/a KDW's now, which are REALLY grippy and sticky. I plan on putting the same tire on the new rims, we just have to see how good they hold up with miles and burnouts
Are you going to install all the parts yourself? If its your DD you are going to have quite a bit of downtime during all the installs.
11-27-2009, 03:41 PM
#28
Ok where do I start 
1st what do you mean build a "mustang killer"? A stock ls1 is faster than a stock gt but there will always be someone faster than you no matter what you drive. Dont wast your money on a hypertech, get a real tune. You cant run a 80 series with true duals, the 80 is a cross flow. If you want a cheap exhaust set up run what I have: pacesetters, ory, dual cutouts and a dumped dynomax bullet, cheap, flows good and sounds great. With $2500 you should get some long tubes, the exhaust I mentioned, ls6 intake, nitrous kit, plugs, window switch, cam and a tune. You can definitely do all that on your budget if you buy stuff from the classifieds on here.
1st what do you mean build a "mustang killer"? A stock ls1 is faster than a stock gt but there will always be someone faster than you no matter what you drive. Dont wast your money on a hypertech, get a real tune. You cant run a 80 series with true duals, the 80 is a cross flow. If you want a cheap exhaust set up run what I have: pacesetters, ory, dual cutouts and a dumped dynomax bullet, cheap, flows good and sounds great. With $2500 you should get some long tubes, the exhaust I mentioned, ls6 intake, nitrous kit, plugs, window switch, cam and a tune. You can definitely do all that on your budget if you buy stuff from the classifieds on here. 
11-27-2009, 10:22 PM
#31
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Thanks everybody! The only reason I chose Flows is because I had good experience with them on my last two vehicles. The main point of this thread was not to build a Mustang killer (regardless of the title). It was more to build a sub 10K car that can compete against a buddy's 2010 ss. He talks **** all the time and he thinks the 98-02's are slow (clearly I have not given him a ride yet 
. Downtime in between mods is not important...my dad will lend me his 02' Sierra anytime (what a guy!) And yeah...I'll likely be gettin a tune from Livernois motorsports since it's only 45 mins away. Thanks for the help guys (or gals)!
. Downtime in between mods is not important...my dad will lend me his 02' Sierra anytime (what a guy!) And yeah...I'll likely be gettin a tune from Livernois motorsports since it's only 45 mins away. Thanks for the help guys (or gals)!
11-27-2009, 11:26 PM
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11-27-2009, 11:52 PM
#33
nuff said 
11-28-2009, 09:55 AM
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Yeah, I just contacted someone at Livernois motorsports in Dearborn, MI and they said that a tune will probably run me $300-$400 depending on dyno time. They also said I can expect performance gains of 25-30 HP with nothing else. If I have the car tuned after a cam and mild head work, and a few bolt ons, he said performance gains of 125 were possible! I can't wait, I've got an order in on the lopier thunder cam, the step up from the 'old man cam' and found an ls6 intake on ebay new with bigger injectors, so that should tide me over until Christmas . If I really do gain 125 horses thats mid-400 range and I should be able to beat that 2010 SS if she hooks up good (no wheel hop).
. If I really do gain 125 horses thats mid-400 range and I should be able to beat that 2010 SS if she hooks up good (no wheel hop).
11-28-2009, 10:07 AM
#38
if you want to have a quick car for cheap get a 150 shot some 4.10s and some sticky tires. that will put you running real quick for a street car. then you can use the left over money to get some of the other things listed up there^. nitrous and gears are hands down the most bang for the buck mods.
11-28-2009, 10:09 AM
#39
Which cam did you order?
You should be able to shut your friend up pretty quickly. My buddy with a charger was talking **** until I raced him. I beat him by over a second in the quarter mile. Now he wants to get a 98-02 f body.
You should be able to shut your friend up pretty quickly. My buddy with a charger was talking **** until I raced him. I beat him by over a second in the quarter mile. Now he wants to get a 98-02 f body.
Last edited by Pseudonym; 11-28-2009 at 10:17 AM.
11-28-2009, 10:18 AM
#40
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Nitrous and gears...I'm likely putting in a 3.73 or 3.90 when I go up the 12-bolt in the spring/summer, and Nitrous is just overkill for me. I don't race all the time, this is just a daily driver with some kick. Plus nitrous is $500 for a kit with a heater, which is a signifigant part of my budget - could spend on suspension instead. The cam is Thunder cam's "TR 220-112". It's one step up from the 'old man cam' and is very slightly lopier. On a 5.3 truck motor it make about 80 more HP than stock and 68 more ft/lbs torque! I talked to guys at both Livernois powersports and Thunder cams and they both spoke highly of them (of course the guy at Livernois tried to sell me their cam which is $80 more for the same cam). Thunder cams said that it is their second most popular LS cam they sell. Hope it gives it a real kick for the $$$.