FasterTheBetter92

Hey all, new to the site and really like it. I just bought a 98' Z-28 camaro with 75K and the t56 6-speed. I paid $5500 for the car. My dad has been a Pontiac/Chevy mechanic for 35 years and I always wanted a camaro, and at 19 years old, I finally have one . I have about 2500 to sink into it, and I want to build the fastest car I can with that cash. The only thing the car has right now is a lid and flowmaster exhaust with a white trash cutout. I want to do a head and cam setup, but since this is my daily driver I don't want to kill my mpg...driving 3 hours home from college on weekends. I allready ordered a summit lowering kit (1-1/2"), polyurethane bushings (complete kit), and a hypertech programmer. I have a buddy who has a bone stock 2010 camaro ss and I want to put him in his place (yeah...its hard to compete with the rich) . I have access to a good reputable head place and I was thinking of porting polishing the heads...roller rockers...hardened pushrods...etc. I figure that will put me close to the 400 mark with a good tune. Any other good ways to build HP and not kill mpg? I dont mind losing a few, but 20-22 highway would be good. Appreciate any help. -James

Pseudonym

iTrader: (3)

Well, from one 19 year old to another, I would say

Switch the muffler from flowmaster to magnaflow, pipes can stay.
Get the FTRA or SSRA.
Cancel the order on the hypertech programmer.
If you can get your heads ported and polished go for it.
ls6 intake manifold
longtube headers, pacesetter would be good with an aftermarket y pipe if you dont already have one.
port polish tb.
and a professional tune.
You should have money left over if you are doing the work.

If you still want to do a cam that doesn't kill your mpg try the thunder racing "old man cam". I don't have any experience with them but judging by the specs, it shouldn't be too bad for mpg, also it won't thump like a bigger cam would. Hopefully someone who has used it will chime in.

You could also probably make more power with a different setup, but these things have a relatively easy install, and you can still dd your car. Someone is going to tell you to do n2o, but that's not my style. You can make alot of power with it but you should get a nitrous cam if you are going to spray it. Like I said before, I wouldnt use nitrous just because I like my power to be there all the time. in that case switch the ls6 I listed for a bbk ssi intake manifold.

Good luck and welcome.

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

Welcome to the club.

wana be a mustang killer on cheap....deflate the 'stang's tires lol.

This time of year lot of sponsors on this site will be having sales and check out the classifieds sections.

A $2500 budget can get you where you want to be. Start with basics: Intake,Long Tube Headers,x-pipe, mufflers of choice.

Cam, Gears, Mail Order Tune.

Being a T-56, you should be already getting around 25mpg on the highway, given that you don't have your foot through the floorboards. Depending on the cam, you may notice a difference but the exhaust and intake 'll just make up for it.

You 'll be a good fight for the '10 SS with these mods.
Remember sometimes its not so much about the parts on the car, its you.

I doubt your friend 'd mod his SS anytime soon and if he can't drive, he probably just spin through 1st and 2nd. The IRS isn't helping him either.

FasterTheBetter92

I actually found some headers from texas speed and am gonna order those. Cat delete. Probably go with a 2.5" x-pipe to dual flows or magnaflows because I have the crossover laying around somewhere. I'll have to check that cam out...I was gonna put in like a thumpr' or a comp cams...but ill look into that. I'll either order a new slp throttle body or do what you said and port/polish it when I do the heads. What's so good about the ls6 intake? Everyone says that it's a real performance boost, but why? I got a really good deal on the head work...so that's basically gonna be free (without parts). And I agree with you on the nitrous...I really dont like it...bottles are for ricers or drag racers, and I am neither. Thanks for the help!

And yes...that setup could keep up with the ss...its only got an intake and a lowering kit...not to mention 100 lbs of subwoofers in the trunk...lol. That IRS can do some gnarly burnouts though...the car has 8000 miles on it and it needs tires allready, at $450 a pop. And he can drive pretty well, but its an automatic, so how hard is that? Thanks.

Pseudonym

iTrader: (3)

The ls6 manifold has better flow than the ls1 manifold. If you don't mind the thump, check out the Polluter cam from Tick Performance, or one of Thunder Racing's more agressive cams. I only suggested the "Old Man Cam" because it seems to be very streetable. You will definately need a tune if you put in a big cam.
Just an FYI, I went .3 seconds slower in the 1/4 when I used the hypertech programmer. I switched back to stock tune and ran faster.

transamsam98

iTrader: (56)

gonna be the odd ball here and say do your suspension first. More power is great and really makes the car enjoyable but suspension will wake the car up as well and will be alot more comfortable on those 3 hour drives and very entertaining when you find a back road plus once you do add more power itll make more use of it.

1BAD_LS1

iTrader: (36)

turbo it and be done.... i started building up with boltons, cam only, heads & cam, sts turbo, now im on a Front mount turbo...

could have saved ALOT of money if i would have just went big the first time! It can be done fairly cheap!

homerunhtr21

iTrader: (18)

SLP U/D pulley-$175 (optional)
P/P Throttle Body- $75
Pacesetter Headers- $370
True Duals- $425 (if ordered from texas speed)
Dyno Tune-$350
Ls6 Intake-$300
So, basic mods 2500-1695=$805

I guess you and your dad will be doing all the work together yourself to save on install prices.

As far as cams go the Polluter cam is a huge cam for a DD. Look into a custom spec cam, 228r or V2.

With the $805 left you could either do suspension or get a GOOD SET OF TIRES with money left over.

Your gonna be better off to buy a new set of heads if your going to go through the trouble of a head swap though as the 98 heads were not the best.

With an m6 you should still be over 20mpg with a cam or even a h/c swap depending on how you drive.

You dont have to do everything at once either. Save some money because things will come up with the car that will need fixed without a doubt.

Not trying to be a parent and I dont know what kind of cars you have driven before but dont just go throw a h/c package at an ls1. Get to know the car and the power levels because they can get away from you fast.

O and your not gonna do any kind of forced induction the right way for 2500 so if you want to go that way save up and do it right.

B.T.W ---Driving an A4 is more than just pushing the gas...especially with a big stall Watch out for us "bad at driving" a4 guys

Pseudonym

iTrader: (3)

He already ordered a lowering kit so I assume you talking about chassis stiffening. Correct? That's a good idea, but what parts would you get with his budget in mind? He still wants to add power so you can't use all of the money.
A list and approximate price would help, then I could revise my suggested mod list.

I can't believe I forgot about that.

With a UD pulley, don't you have to add an overdrive pulley to the alt or was I misinformed?

homerunhtr21

iTrader: (18)

If he wanted suspension first instead of power he could do

Lca Relocation Brackets--75
Good Shocks (konis)--800
Adj PHB--125
Lca--125

Thats a basic susp. list

Then you could do Tq arm, watts link, tubular suspension, etc...

FasterTheBetter92

Well first off...I sold my 95' yukon with everyone's favorite...THROTTLE BODY INJECTION! 200 hp in a 5500 lb truck. It was slow, but it was torquey and a great 4x4, so any v-8 car is a step up. I just read up on the ls6 intake and I will probably do that as well, seems easy 15 hp. I also read that after port/polish the t.b. and intake the programmer did reduce hp, so I'm gonna cancel that order and save 300 bucks, which I'll buy the u/d pulleys with. Found a guy on ebay who will p/p the t.b. for $60 so Ill just have them do it. The car does have a bigger sway bar front and back from previous owner, and has like-new BFG t/a KDW's which are good. The suspension is pretty good, and the lowering kit I ordered should make it even tighter. No turbo. Buddy has a Grand National and it always blows up and ***** oil everywhere. Just engine. The 'old man cam' seems good. That will probably be my choice. I will get the frame tied and new shocks, but that'll be in the spring. Sadly, I will have to drive this in the winter 'cringe'
I'll probably take the A/C out too, Michigan doesnt get that hot. Thats a cheap hp builder too.

homerunhtr21

iTrader: (18)

What mods to the suspension does it have? Because lowering springs can actually hurt the suspension not help if supporting mods are not done.

FasterTheBetter92

It has bigger sway bars front and back and older Koni shocks. It also has an adjustable camber kit for the front suspension. I'm putting Z 06 rims on it in the spring when I get a raise at work, which should be just a right fit with the 1.5" drop kit.

EATSGTS

iTrader: (2)

I would get a splitter too, for extra downforce at highway speeds.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

I'm 19 here also. I've owned my car for two years and learned a LOT.

In my opinion this is the mod order for any daily f-body:
-good tires
-springs/shocks/swaybars
-bolt ons
-then either heads/cam or turbo/supercharger/nitrous

I totally understand wanting to be "faster" than someone else, but really a 350rwhp car with a nice stance, that corners like a maniac, still runs mid 12's, and rides nicely is a lot cooler than a car making 400 that does nothing but go straight.

FasterTheBetter92

I totally agree, but for now, in the michigan snow, it doesnt make sense to pour money into the suspension. I will work on it in the spring: new shocks, panhard rod, tie the frame, controll arms, torque arm, shock tower tie bar, etc. The car is a hard top so it is much more rigid than a convert or t-top as is, but I really wanna push this thing to the rails. But the HP comes first.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

btw I have a ported throttle body for sale if you're interested. it's for an 00' but the only difference is the throttle body cam(half circle that the throttle cable attaches to) so you can just swap yours in and you're good to go. PM me if interested.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

hardtops really aren't a whole lot stronger. there's a thin metal bar running from the a-pillar back to the roof on each side but that's about it. i get the whole snow thing though haha. as long as you do it at some point though, these cars seriously lack in suspension quality from the factory. i planned on power then suspension, but then i got obsessed with suspension and just couldn't stop haha.

FasterTheBetter92

I would do the basic suspension stuff first so that when the HP is added you really feel it, but I dont want to add 1K in suspension **** and then have it all rust in one season. Next winter I'm getting storage, so I want to beat on all the stock **** now so that when I replace it with better stuff it really lasts and looks great. I bought a hardtop for less squeaks mostly (yeah right...I've got about 4 right now lol). But I totally get it. Does your 3.23 really give it a kick in the ***? I was considering a 3.73 myself.

BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

I don't see why people think taking the ac out is a hp adder? When the ac's not on its just a free spinning pully. Even if the ac's on when you go full throttle the computer automatically turns the ac off. I can see if it was a track car and you deleted the ac, that would save on weight, but not add hp...