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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:35 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DiabloFormula
I bought mine used with a spare NOS bottle, but if you can't find them used you can get them from Nano Nitrous, there a sponsor here.
alright. I'll def have to look into getting one. are they as consistent as running a bottle heater? any changes that are caused by this such as drop in fuel or any timing changes required?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:06 AM
  #22  
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They say it supposed to be more consistent than a bottle heater.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:38 AM
  #23  
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It is more consistant, but it changes the tuneup on the back 1/2 of the track... car's don't see the pressure fall off, and if you're on the edge that lack of pressure drop can eat a motor.

Just be careful and check your plugs, and make sure that everything's right with that.

FYI, when I spoke with Steve Johnson about having a fogger system done, he told me to stay away from the nano stuff, and just change the 10 lb bottle every run..... that's the best way to stay consistant. That, and to only put 9 lbs in the 10 lb bottle so you don't build alot of head pressure, and heat the bottle to 950 psi, and purge to 900, that's the sweet spot for nitrous as it will recover/maintain pretty good at that level and it doesn't go into a gas at that pressure/temp.

I was also told, heat the bottles in a hot water bath, so that I can heat soak the entire bottle in the hot water, as this works the best to get everything heated, not just the part of the bottle that has a heater, etc. This also helps with consistancey.

If, anyone wants to know that stuff. Nano will remove all that work/game... but again, with the lack of pressure drop off you need to make sure yout top of the track timing and fueling are right, or it can create a situation that can hurt parts whereas you didn't have the risk before.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 08:59 AM
  #24  
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I agree with JL...that is what i was always taught and know and will stick with, although i am a fan of the torches, BUT only cus i never had a water bath box to heat bottles, and a torch helps get the job done when you been stuck sitting in the staging lanes (yes we all know its frowned upon to use a torch)
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:07 AM
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That's why I kept a full size battery in my sled, and use the electric heater in the lanes,and sill continue to do so if I need it.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 03:19 PM
  #26  
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OMG What a pain in the ***... I cant imagine going to the track and wanting to make 6 passes and having to fill a bottle or change out after every run... This makes it sound as if the nitrous is a one pass wonder followed by a bunch of work to fill or change bottles. God bless you guys dont know how you put up with the headache the laughy gass sounds like. Granted I know very little about the stuff and I am taking bits from people who seem to have good knowledge of the stuff...
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
It is more consistant, but it changes the tuneup on the back 1/2 of the track... car's don't see the pressure fall off, and if you're on the edge that lack of pressure drop can eat a motor.

Just be careful and check your plugs, and make sure that everything's right with that.

FYI, when I spoke with Steve Johnson about having a fogger system done, he told me to stay away from the nano stuff, and just change the 10 lb bottle every run..... that's the best way to stay consistant. That, and to only put 9 lbs in the 10 lb bottle so you don't build alot of head pressure, and heat the bottle to 950 psi, and purge to 900, that's the sweet spot for nitrous as it will recover/maintain pretty good at that level and it doesn't go into a gas at that pressure/temp.

I was also told, heat the bottles in a hot water bath, so that I can heat soak the entire bottle in the hot water, as this works the best to get everything heated, not just the part of the bottle that has a heater, etc. This also helps with consistancey.

If, anyone wants to know that stuff. Nano will remove all that work/game... but again, with the lack of pressure drop off you need to make sure yout top of the track timing and fueling are right, or it can create a situation that can hurt parts whereas you didn't have the risk before.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 04:43 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mikep2002
OMG What a pain in the ***... I cant imagine going to the track and wanting to make 6 passes and having to fill a bottle or change out after every run... This makes it sound as if the nitrous is a one pass wonder followed by a bunch of work to fill or change bottles. God bless you guys dont know how you put up with the headache the laughy gass sounds like. Granted I know very little about the stuff and I am taking bits from people who seem to have good knowledge of the stuff...
It really isn't as bad as it sounds man....I love it, I've always thought about a turbo setup or a supercharger, but for the amount of power you can make for such a low amount of $$$ spent....you just can't beat it, and better yet if you know what you're doing and understand how nitrous works and so on, you motor will last just as long or even longer then some booste application.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mitahuoch
alright. I'll def have to look into getting one. are they as consistent as running a bottle heater? any changes that are caused by this such as drop in fuel or any timing changes required?
Nano is better then a bottle heater becuase it keeps a constant pressure of 950psi down the track, Nano says you have to either drop you nitrous by 20% or raise you fuel by 20%, which is usually a jet size and of course a good retune is required to make sure everything is right on.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:09 PM
  #29  
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now i know that 950 psi is the sweet spot for a consistent nitrous run, but what would be a good sweet spot for fuel pressure? especially for a motor thats putting out 430 whp n/a. is the dropping of the nitrous by 20% mainly for the motor so it doesnt lean out?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DiabloFormula
It really isn't as bad as it sounds man....I love it, I've always thought about a turbo setup or a supercharger, but for the amount of power you can make for such a low amount of $$$ spent....you just can't beat it, and better yet if you know what you're doing and understand how nitrous works and so on, you motor will last just as long or even longer then some booste application.
I dont know sunshine. I dont think I have heard of a single person in a street application going boosted to nitrous and being happy... Most seem to go from nitrous to boost and real glad they did. So I dont quite get it...
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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My next build, hopefully will be twin turbo's !!! Instead of twin 15lb'ers !!! LOL
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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how much to fill a bottle? on average?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #33  
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4.00 - 4.50 per lb... My area...
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mikep2002
OMG What a pain in the ***... I cant imagine going to the track and wanting to make 6 passes and having to fill a bottle or change out after every run..
That's cause you haven't had a fast nitrous car son, and have no idea what it takes to go fast with nitrous.


We do however, have no problems with belts, no gear drive maintenance, no turbo to send back every X amount of passes, no hot side piping that cracks all the time, no issues with someone in the other lane holding back on the tree and letting our spooled up turbo car burn the tranny to the ground either.

Nitrous isn't for everyone. It may not be the fastest of the power adders, but it does have it's advantages, like when it's 120 degrees out and the hunidity is retarded... we make our OWN atmosphere... so we don't suffer at the same level.

You can get burnt with it if you get greedy, but that's the same with everything. Yeah there's a little more motor maintenance, but it's all good with me, I'd rather have it apart on a regular basis, gives ya a chance to see what's going on in there, and if you know/plan for it there's really not that much of a hassle.

I'm not going to say that nitrous is the best way to go, it's one way to do it, and if you get it right, it will produce results. Better? maybe, competitive, surly, slower, sometimes, but it's got it's place in the drag racing world, and in the right situation, it's hard to beat.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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As for pricing, depends where you get it from, and how much you're buying at a time.

I have a local "Guy" that sells it, when I get my sled going again I'm gonna talk to him about buying it in BULK, probably 3 or 4 mother bottles at the start of the season, and fill them myself at home (bring ten 10 lb bottles with me, all of the same make/valve) or just get 4 bottles of the same make/valve, and put a mother bottle in the trailer.. only problem with that is if I were to ever get pulled over and a cop saw that, and I don't have a triangle on the trailer, I might have a headache. The smaller bottles, they don't seem to care as much about.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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JL ws6, I hear point but to me changing a bottle after every run kind of sounds like maintance. Dragging 5/6 bottles to the track sounds like work. And paying 4.50 a pound sounds kind of expensive if your going to use it and really have fun with it. Its all my opinion. I will keep my mild blower car vs. the laughy gas. I think once you get the belts straightened out and you dont change things to much not to many problems.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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To each his own. Like I said, it's not for everyone... but when it's done right and the rules are fair, it's hard to beat.

I'd deal with popping a bottle in and out every round over a serp belt deal any day of the week.... cog belt maybe, gear drive, if they can get them so you aren't rebuilding that every 20 passes I'd be all over it. Belive me I looked into it, and still want to try that route someday.

F2R with a gear drive, or a BIG cog belt with the ati freewheel hub. Be interesting to see how it plays out.

But, at this point, $ for $ I'll stick with the nitrous.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
That's cause you haven't had a fast nitrous car son, and have no idea what it takes to go fast with nitrous.


We do however, have no problems with belts, no gear drive maintenance, no turbo to send back every X amount of passes, no hot side piping that cracks all the time, no issues with someone in the other lane holding back on the tree and letting our spooled up turbo car burn the tranny to the ground either.

Nitrous isn't for everyone. It may not be the fastest of the power adders, but it does have it's advantages, like when it's 120 degrees out and the hunidity is retarded... we make our OWN atmosphere... so we don't suffer at the same level.

You can get burnt with it if you get greedy, but that's the same with everything. Yeah there's a little more motor maintenance, but it's all good with me, I'd rather have it apart on a regular basis, gives ya a chance to see what's going on in there, and if you know/plan for it there's really not that much of a hassle.

I'm not going to say that nitrous is the best way to go, it's one way to do it, and if you get it right, it will produce results. Better? maybe, competitive, surly, slower, sometimes, but it's got it's place in the drag racing world, and in the right situation, it's hard to beat.
Well said.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
That's cause you haven't had a fast nitrous car son, and have no idea what it takes to go fast with nitrous.


We do however, have no problems with belts, no gear drive maintenance, no turbo to send back every X amount of passes, no hot side piping that cracks all the time, no issues with someone in the other lane holding back on the tree and letting our spooled up turbo car burn the tranny to the ground either.

Nitrous isn't for everyone. It may not be the fastest of the power adders, but it does have it's advantages, like when it's 120 degrees out and the hunidity is retarded... we make our OWN atmosphere... so we don't suffer at the same level.

You can get burnt with it if you get greedy, but that's the same with everything. Yeah there's a little more motor maintenance, but it's all good with me, I'd rather have it apart on a regular basis, gives ya a chance to see what's going on in there, and if you know/plan for it there's really not that much of a hassle.

I'm not going to say that nitrous is the best way to go, it's one way to do it, and if you get it right, it will produce results. Better? maybe, competitive, surly, slower, sometimes, but it's got it's place in the drag racing world, and in the right situation, it's hard to beat.
curious...why are the turbos getting sent back every "x" amount of passes??
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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Ask the turbo guys, I have no idea. I do know that Major changes his on a regular basis, this is a somewhat extreme example, but mike moran takes the turbo's off his car after ever 4 passes and swaps them.

Something's wearing out, or these guys wouldn't be doing it. I think it's alot more common then anyone realizes, but the turbo guys try to keep this under their hat and play like there's no maintenance.

That's my guess/opinion... I do know that at the high levels they're changing them out on a regular basis, and I'd imagine whatever it is that they're seeing, you'll see at any level, just not to the same extent.
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