Out with the old....In with the New!!!
Just be careful and check your plugs, and make sure that everything's right with that.
FYI, when I spoke with Steve Johnson about having a fogger system done, he told me to stay away from the nano stuff, and just change the 10 lb bottle every run..... that's the best way to stay consistant. That, and to only put 9 lbs in the 10 lb bottle so you don't build alot of head pressure, and heat the bottle to 950 psi, and purge to 900, that's the sweet spot for nitrous as it will recover/maintain pretty good at that level and it doesn't go into a gas at that pressure/temp.
I was also told, heat the bottles in a hot water bath, so that I can heat soak the entire bottle in the hot water, as this works the best to get everything heated, not just the part of the bottle that has a heater, etc. This also helps with consistancey.
If, anyone wants to know that stuff. Nano will remove all that work/game... but again, with the lack of pressure drop off you need to make sure yout top of the track timing and fueling are right, or it can create a situation that can hurt parts whereas you didn't have the risk before.
Just be careful and check your plugs, and make sure that everything's right with that.
FYI, when I spoke with Steve Johnson about having a fogger system done, he told me to stay away from the nano stuff, and just change the 10 lb bottle every run..... that's the best way to stay consistant. That, and to only put 9 lbs in the 10 lb bottle so you don't build alot of head pressure, and heat the bottle to 950 psi, and purge to 900, that's the sweet spot for nitrous as it will recover/maintain pretty good at that level and it doesn't go into a gas at that pressure/temp.
I was also told, heat the bottles in a hot water bath, so that I can heat soak the entire bottle in the hot water, as this works the best to get everything heated, not just the part of the bottle that has a heater, etc. This also helps with consistancey.
If, anyone wants to know that stuff. Nano will remove all that work/game... but again, with the lack of pressure drop off you need to make sure yout top of the track timing and fueling are right, or it can create a situation that can hurt parts whereas you didn't have the risk before.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
We do however, have no problems with belts, no gear drive maintenance, no turbo to send back every X amount of passes, no hot side piping that cracks all the time, no issues with someone in the other lane holding back on the tree and letting our spooled up turbo car burn the tranny to the ground either.
Nitrous isn't for everyone. It may not be the fastest of the power adders, but it does have it's advantages, like when it's 120 degrees out and the hunidity is retarded... we make our OWN atmosphere... so we don't suffer at the same level.
You can get burnt with it if you get greedy, but that's the same with everything. Yeah there's a little more motor maintenance, but it's all good with me, I'd rather have it apart on a regular basis, gives ya a chance to see what's going on in there, and if you know/plan for it there's really not that much of a hassle.
I'm not going to say that nitrous is the best way to go, it's one way to do it, and if you get it right, it will produce results. Better? maybe, competitive, surly, slower, sometimes, but it's got it's place in the drag racing world, and in the right situation, it's hard to beat.
I have a local "Guy" that sells it, when I get my sled going again I'm gonna talk to him about buying it in BULK, probably 3 or 4 mother bottles at the start of the season, and fill them myself at home (bring ten 10 lb bottles with me, all of the same make/valve) or just get 4 bottles of the same make/valve, and put a mother bottle in the trailer.. only problem with that is if I were to ever get pulled over and a cop saw that, and I don't have a triangle on the trailer, I might have a headache. The smaller bottles, they don't seem to care as much about.
I'd deal with popping a bottle in and out every round over a serp belt deal any day of the week.... cog belt maybe, gear drive, if they can get them so you aren't rebuilding that every 20 passes I'd be all over it. Belive me I looked into it, and still want to try that route someday.
F2R with a gear drive, or a BIG cog belt with the ati freewheel hub. Be interesting to see how it plays out.
But, at this point, $ for $ I'll stick with the nitrous.
We do however, have no problems with belts, no gear drive maintenance, no turbo to send back every X amount of passes, no hot side piping that cracks all the time, no issues with someone in the other lane holding back on the tree and letting our spooled up turbo car burn the tranny to the ground either.
Nitrous isn't for everyone. It may not be the fastest of the power adders, but it does have it's advantages, like when it's 120 degrees out and the hunidity is retarded... we make our OWN atmosphere... so we don't suffer at the same level.
You can get burnt with it if you get greedy, but that's the same with everything. Yeah there's a little more motor maintenance, but it's all good with me, I'd rather have it apart on a regular basis, gives ya a chance to see what's going on in there, and if you know/plan for it there's really not that much of a hassle.
I'm not going to say that nitrous is the best way to go, it's one way to do it, and if you get it right, it will produce results. Better? maybe, competitive, surly, slower, sometimes, but it's got it's place in the drag racing world, and in the right situation, it's hard to beat.
We do however, have no problems with belts, no gear drive maintenance, no turbo to send back every X amount of passes, no hot side piping that cracks all the time, no issues with someone in the other lane holding back on the tree and letting our spooled up turbo car burn the tranny to the ground either.
Nitrous isn't for everyone. It may not be the fastest of the power adders, but it does have it's advantages, like when it's 120 degrees out and the hunidity is retarded... we make our OWN atmosphere... so we don't suffer at the same level.
You can get burnt with it if you get greedy, but that's the same with everything. Yeah there's a little more motor maintenance, but it's all good with me, I'd rather have it apart on a regular basis, gives ya a chance to see what's going on in there, and if you know/plan for it there's really not that much of a hassle.
I'm not going to say that nitrous is the best way to go, it's one way to do it, and if you get it right, it will produce results. Better? maybe, competitive, surly, slower, sometimes, but it's got it's place in the drag racing world, and in the right situation, it's hard to beat.
Something's wearing out, or these guys wouldn't be doing it. I think it's alot more common then anyone realizes, but the turbo guys try to keep this under their hat and play like there's no maintenance.
That's my guess/opinion... I do know that at the high levels they're changing them out on a regular basis, and I'd imagine whatever it is that they're seeing, you'll see at any level, just not to the same extent.






