who in MA is A4 Bolt-on
The only stock internal A4 that can break into the 11's would need a huge converter, gears, and a 12bolt or 9" running et streets or slicks. All the bolt ons and about a 200-300lb diet. Even then the 11's would not be consistent.
If you want consistent high 11's you need a decent size cam to top it off.
It would be safe to say that most bolt on A4's would run mid 12's if done right.
Don't get your hopes up to high as most guys even with a cam still usually run very low 12's.
The converter will help a lot but usually there not an instant 5 tenths.
Like dand35th said, 12.4 is what I'd put money on.
If you want consistent high 11's you need a decent size cam to top it off.
It would be safe to say that most bolt on A4's would run mid 12's if done right.
Don't get your hopes up to high as most guys even with a cam still usually run very low 12's.
The converter will help a lot but usually there not an instant 5 tenths.
Like dand35th said, 12.4 is what I'd put money on.
Originally Posted by DannoWS6
The only stock internal A4 that can break into the 11's would need a huge converter, gears, and a 12bolt or 9" running et streets or slicks. All the bolt ons and about a 200-300lb diet. Even then the 11's would not be consistent.
If you want consistent high 11's you need a decent size cam to top it off.
It would be safe to say that most bolt on A4's would run mid 12's if done right.
Don't get your hopes up to high as most guys even with a cam still usually run very low 12's.
The converter will help a lot but usually there not an instant 5 tenths.
Like dand35th said, 12.4 is what I'd put money on.
If you want consistent high 11's you need a decent size cam to top it off.
It would be safe to say that most bolt on A4's would run mid 12's if done right.
Don't get your hopes up to high as most guys even with a cam still usually run very low 12's.
The converter will help a lot but usually there not an instant 5 tenths.
Like dand35th said, 12.4 is what I'd put money on.
Originally Posted by WJ SOM SS
First of all, you do not need a 12 bolt or 9 inch w/a A4 car. There are many running 10's and even lower w/A4's and beefed 10 bolts. Again, look at the 11 and 10 sec. clubs. M6's--definitely a 12 bolt or 9". Also, the new M/T radial ET Drags are capable of 10's easily--even 9's. Plenty of NMCA cars run big numbers w/BFG drag radials, also. Radial race tires are getting better and better. Soon you won't even be able to buy bias ply race tires. ET Streets and Drags will be a thing of the past... Goodyear and M/T are now making radial full slicks. Last season the NHRA records book was just about completely re-written in the alphabet stock and super stock classes by cars running these new radial tires. Cars were over a tenth quicker just by bolting a pair on...People w/the experience and that are running the numbers will tell you that there are many ways to get to running the number....Some are smart enough to get there by bolting on a little less and paying more attention to the little things that some pay no attention to....IMO, these are the guys to watch. WJ
Good points. You don't need a 12 bolt or 9", but with the kind of power a bolt on A4 makes in order to run 11's you need to HOOK. I know for myself I wouldn't even think of running the above tires w/ out a built rear. How may 1.6, 1.5 or lower 60's can a stock rear take even on a preloaded auto? It's gotta break more than likely sooner than later.
Sure there are guys running 11's w/ street tires and nittos. But the fact is on a almost full weight car w/ bolt ons you need good 60ft's to get 11's, and usually to be safe you should get a beefed up rear.
Originally Posted by WJ SOM SS
Check out the cars in the 11 second club. Most all of their sigs. tell what they're running for mods and MOST are running H/C combos, or at least 1 or the other. 11's are most difficult naturally aspirated, stock heads and cam, stock exhaust manifolds, 3500 weight and above. Gutted out cars are a different story....Remember, every 100 lbs. subtracted from raceweight = 1/tenth off your et... I don't think the cars that resemble empty tuna cans inside are a fair comparison here--they should be qualified as all out racecars. Same w/cars that are trailered in and out of the track--these are also racecars--not true streetcars. As stated before, there are many people doing the high 11 deal throughout the country w/bolt-on street cars---but not many at all in our Eastern section, and only a handful in Eastern, Central, and Western Mass. Even low 12 second lightly modded cars are quite rare around here... Go to the track and pay attention. You will see.... WJ 
), I was merely answering/stating that heads and cams are NOT bolt ons. Now, a mod is mod, be it a gutted car or a high compression solid roller race motor, a mod is a mod. I have a hard time calling a gutted car a race car yet at the same time calling a heads and cam motored car NOT a race car...to me they are BOTH race cars, street driven or otherwise, and each has it's sacrifices, benefits and negatives.
You might consider my (not quite yet high 11s) car to be gutted with merely it's rear seats, jack/spare, floormats, front sway bar and front seat (for track only) removed but with A/C, stereo, carpets, interior panels and STOCK heads and cam still intact the car sounds/acts almost exactly like it did when bone stock, but it does run 12.1s at nearly 113mph.
Given the choice between a lightened street car like mine running only slightly slower than a bad idling/valve spring eating/parts breaking (due to both the extra weight AND power) H/C car that just happens to have the small bragging right of 'full weight', well I'll take my set up.
The best combo IMO, both...why not a slightly weight reduced heads and cam car, best of all worlds.
Originally Posted by DannoWS6
The only stock internal A4 that can break into the 11's would need a huge converter, gears, and a 12bolt or 9" running et streets or slicks. All the bolt ons and about a 200-300lb diet. Even then the 11's would not be consistent.
It would be safe to say that most bolt on A4's would run mid 12's if done right.
Don't get your hopes up to high as most guys even with a cam still usually run very low 12's.
It would be safe to say that most bolt on A4's would run mid 12's if done right.
Don't get your hopes up to high as most guys even with a cam still usually run very low 12's.
It can be done but I agree with you, it really can't be done consistently/regularly, my car is light and even if/when I do hit those illusive 11s it will only be in good air at a sticky track.
Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Well again, I'm not in the 11s yet so this is all speculative for now but I have a small old tech (Pro Torque 2800) converter, stock rear (3.23s), BFG DRs with less than 150 pounds removed (though my car is light to begin with) on my 'bolt ons only' car and I might be just a 'better track prep day' away from 11s with it, consistent low 12s at this point.
It can be done but I agree with you, it really can't be done consistently/regularly, my car is light and even if/when I do hit those illusive 11s it will only be in good air at a sticky track.
It can be done but I agree with you, it really can't be done consistently/regularly, my car is light and even if/when I do hit those illusive 11s it will only be in good air at a sticky track.
Yup you need perfect conditions w/ a perfect launch. Most of the 11 sec guys have atleast a cam. But there are some freaks out there.
low 12's are still very respectable in a bolt on car though, and I'd be happy with them.
LS1LT1: What is your raceweight? DannoWS6: What is your raceweight? As stated, I'm 3550. Jack and spare removed. Swaybar intact, but disconnected. Convo-Pros front and rear are my biggest weight reduction. Everything else is on the car w/1/4 tank of fuel. I am 175 lbs for this season. I was 195 lbs. last season. Raceweight for this season should be 3530, or even a little less. 3.42's could squeak me a very high 11 on a cool day w/excellent air and a re-tune by Slowhawk....Cast iron manifolds, Mufflex OR pipes, LGMotorsports Y, and a cutout. WJ
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Originally Posted by WJ SOM SS
LS1LT1: What is your raceweight? DannoWS6: What is your raceweight? As stated, I'm 3550. Jack and spare removed. Swaybar intact, but disconnected. Convo-Pros front and rear are my biggest weight reduction. Everything else is on the car w/1/4 tank of fuel. I am 175 lbs for this season. I was 195 lbs. last season. Raceweight for this season should be 3530, or even a little less. 3.42's could squeak me a very high 11 on a cool day w/excellent air and a re-tune by Slowhawk....Cast iron manifolds, Mufflex OR pipes, LGMotorsports Y, and a cutout. WJ
WJThe time in sig was on a street night 90 degrees and humid.
I think its possible for Marcs (LS1LT1) car to see 11s the way it is now. My car with an excellant driver went 12.2 @ 114 on a 1.8 60ft with a race weight of 3550. Yes its an M6, but still not even a "full bolt on" car. And no weight reduction except jack and spare removal. All on a stock rear, on BFG DRs, stock front wheels at Atco.
Originally Posted by aliwantsnss
I think its possible for Marcs (LS1LT1) car to see 11s the way it is now. My car with an excellant driver went 12.2 @ 114 on a 1.8 60ft with a race weight of 3550. Yes its an M6, but still not even a "full bolt on" car. And no weight reduction except jack and spare removal. All on a stock rear, on BFG DRs, stock front wheels at Atco.
But more Power to him. That would be awesome if he does.
I'm failry confident that my setup now (which is a bout to change a bit) will net me 12.5 on a good day. maybe a bit more w/ a prepped track.
Thread Starter
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From: Fall River, MA
Originally Posted by My84Z
I would have been in the 11's at any other track but lvd damn it lol I'd say in an auto 11's concistantly is easy with the right tires.
Originally Posted by WJ SOM SS
Not as easy as you think, boys....Time will tell. Best of luck to everyone. WJ
My car jumped right into the 12's with 3.73 and a 3200 stall. After that, staying at 3645lb I have heads/cam/tb and 12.3 is my best at LVD.
Guys without heads/cam are quicker - but most are hundreds of pounds lighter - that's all.
I prefer to leave the car heavy and quiet inside. I like it to handle so no racing shocks - but all the heads and cam my stock bottom will take!
It's different for every driver. Choices/sacrafices.
My goal, since I took delivery on the '02 car, has been to run 11's w/stock heads and cam and stock cast iron exhaust manifolds w/minimum weight reduction. W/Vig. 3200, Slowhawk's tune, 3.23's, stock 10 bolt and a few rear suspension mods, with a pair of 8.5x15" ET Drags and the 3550 weight, I've gotten a bunch of 12.32's, w/1.67 sixties and 109+ mph. I only tach 4500 rpm's going thru the traps, so 3.42's would send me thru at 4800, and 3.73's at 5200. My car dead-hooks w/the 8.5" Drags every time, so I have the correct tire, I'm sure. I run Mufflex OR pipes and a cutout, also a LGM Y, which I know is a excellent piece. The gearchange will probably be my next mod---hopefully the one that knocks the 11 second door open... 
WJ
WJ
Originally Posted by WJ SOM SS
LS1LT1: What is your raceweight?
I use Convo Pro skinnies as well but they are on the car full time/in street mode, as is the lightweight battery and the !rear seat mod.
Originally Posted by WJ SOM SS
My goal, since I took delivery on the '02 car, has been to run 11's w/stock heads and cam and stock cast iron exhaust manifolds w/minimum weight reduction. W/Vig. 3200, Slowhawk's tune, 3.23's, stock 10 bolt and a few rear suspension mods, with a pair of 8.5x15" ET Drags and the 3550 weight, I've gotten a bunch of 12.32's, w/1.67 sixties and 109+ mph. I only tach 4500 rpm's going thru the traps, so 3.42's would send me thru at 4800, and 3.73's at 5200. My car dead-hooks w/the 8.5" Drags every time, so I have the correct tire, I'm sure. I run Mufflex OR pipes and a cutout, also a LGM Y, which I know is a excellent piece. The gearchange will probably be my next mod---hopefully the one that knocks the 11 second door open... WJ
WJYour bolt on, 3550, 1.67 hook up vs. my head/cam plus, 3645, 1.8x hook and we run the same e.t.!!!
Seems like I spent lots of money that didn't get me far - but that's not true either. MY CAR was going 12.86 with mods like yours. Where is the half second difference? Search for the Holy Grail.....
Originally Posted by chief455
my point exactly - which is not everyone gets the same results!
Your bolt on, 3550, 1.67 hook up vs. my head/cam plus, 3645, 1.8x hook and we run the same e.t.!!!
Seems like I spent lots of money that didn't get me far - but that's not true either. MY CAR was going 12.86 with mods like yours. Where is the half second difference? Search for the Holy Grail.....
Your bolt on, 3550, 1.67 hook up vs. my head/cam plus, 3645, 1.8x hook and we run the same e.t.!!!
Seems like I spent lots of money that didn't get me far - but that's not true either. MY CAR was going 12.86 with mods like yours. Where is the half second difference? Search for the Holy Grail.....
Last edited by WJ SOM SS; Mar 2, 2005 at 06:21 AM.