lean?
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lean? Well, not getting any responses yet again, this time in internal section..
c'mon easteners. don't think i'm the only lean one
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/332066-lean.html
c'mon easteners. don't think i'm the only lean one
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/332066-lean.html
Originally Posted by firechicken2k
Well, not getting any responses yet again, this time in internal section..
c'mon easteners. don't think i'm the only lean one
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332066
c'mon easteners. don't think i'm the only lean one
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332066
And yes 14-1 is not good,you are probly running in limp mode while stressing the Knock sensors.
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
Why risk hurting the car?just get it tuned
And yes 14-1 is not good,you are probly running in limp mode while stressing the Knock sensors.
And yes 14-1 is not good,you are probly running in limp mode while stressing the Knock sensors.
theres no question about it, that ill get it tuned within a month
but at this particular moment, i'm broke.. know of anyone who can dynotune me for free (or wait for payment for a month) ?
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Originally Posted by TTPMatt
Val: Why didnt you just come to me and ask? We can work out a payment plan, lets get you safe I dont want you to hurt the beast then I'll have to fix it!
Matt, you got a PM!
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Originally Posted by firechicken2k
at TTP's dyno day yesterday I found out my AFR is 14.1.. Matt said it's too dangerous to dyno like that.
I guess I need full dyno tuning, to add fuel and richen it up.
So.. how dangerous is it to be lean like this? I take it I should not beat on the car, in this condition.. ?
I guess I need full dyno tuning, to add fuel and richen it up.
So.. how dangerous is it to be lean like this? I take it I should not beat on the car, in this condition.. ?
Obviously you want to be richer than 14:1, but it wont hurt the car to make a few pulls to see the A/F curve.
As far as LSx tuning, I dont know what the ecu will do to inhibit the performance, but physicall the engine will be fine to make a few pulls.
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Originally Posted by RealQuick
Actually, if your N/A it wont hurt your engine at all. Power ouput will be down. How do I know? I have ~500hrs dyno time on marine engines at my work. I just finishing emissions testing on the dyno on one partciular engine (small 5hp motor) and I leaned it out to 21:1 A/F (1.5 lambda) on ~91 octane and no engine damage (it did lose 20% POWER that lean).
Obviously you want to be richer than 14:1, but it wont hurt the car to make a few pulls to see the A/F curve.
As far as LSx tuning, I dont know what the ecu will do to inhibit the performance, but physicall the engine will be fine to make a few pulls.
Obviously you want to be richer than 14:1, but it wont hurt the car to make a few pulls to see the A/F curve.
As far as LSx tuning, I dont know what the ecu will do to inhibit the performance, but physicall the engine will be fine to make a few pulls.
Your talking 2 different types of motors 
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
And I've actually seen LS1 motors blow because the A/F was 14-1 Your talking 2 different types of motors
Your talking 2 different types of motors By the way, some detail on the engines I deal with:
Marine generators and propulsion engines
For ultra low emissions we run all loads at stoichometric conditions (14.7:1 A/F). We use TBI fuel injection system as well as O2's to control the lambda. These engines run 14.7:1 all of their life (from no load to full load). They are regular 4 cycle gasoline engines with generator back ends mated to them.
I have also witnessed an 05 Mustang GT hit 17:1 A/F on the dyno
I told him to shut it down as soon as I saw it (since he wasnt paying attention to the A/F). Regardless, it didnt hurt him. Everyone has their own experiences I guess.
Marine generators and propulsion engines
For ultra low emissions we run all loads at stoichometric conditions (14.7:1 A/F). We use TBI fuel injection system as well as O2's to control the lambda. These engines run 14.7:1 all of their life (from no load to full load). They are regular 4 cycle gasoline engines with generator back ends mated to them.
I have also witnessed an 05 Mustang GT hit 17:1 A/F on the dyno
I told him to shut it down as soon as I saw it (since he wasnt paying attention to the A/F). Regardless, it didnt hurt him. Everyone has their own experiences I guess. Thread Starter
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i'd rather tune it and not worry about it at all, plus in addition i will get to enjoy the full benefit of my mods..
it was never a question of 'to tune or not to tune' it was more like 'to drive until i get a tune, or not to drive'...but..
since TTP rules, they get my car tomorrow..
Thanks again, Matt
it was never a question of 'to tune or not to tune' it was more like 'to drive until i get a tune, or not to drive'...but..
since TTP rules, they get my car tomorrow..
Thanks again, Matt
Originally Posted by firechicken2k
i'd rather tune it and not worry about it at all, plus in addition i will get to enjoy the full benefit of my mods..
it was never a question of 'to tune or not to tune' it was more like 'to drive until i get a tune, or not to drive'...but..
since TTP rules, they get my car tomorrow..
Thanks again, Matt
it was never a question of 'to tune or not to tune' it was more like 'to drive until i get a tune, or not to drive'...but..
since TTP rules, they get my car tomorrow..
Thanks again, Matt
Realquick: He's done a few mods to the car. He is a good customer of ours and he was at our dyno day this past weekend. Car was in the 14.1:1-14.6:1 range the whole way up to 6k. I suggested not to make anymore runs on the car and to do the tune when he can. We have worked out something with him already and tomorrow the car will be tuned to its full potential which also includes our custom timing map, part throttle ltrim tuning, trans tune (Which we already did actually), ses code removal (Done already) and the WOT A/F tuning.
For quick reference most N/A engines should be run at no more than 13/13.1:1 on the dyno. FI engines it depends on a lot of factors like c/r, boost, etc. but if you follow the quick guideline you dont want to run anymore than 12.2:1... most FI cars I'll run 11.5-11.8:1 on the dyno just to be safe. Nitrous cars like to be around 12:1.
For quick reference most N/A engines should be run at no more than 13/13.1:1 on the dyno. FI engines it depends on a lot of factors like c/r, boost, etc. but if you follow the quick guideline you dont want to run anymore than 12.2:1... most FI cars I'll run 11.5-11.8:1 on the dyno just to be safe. Nitrous cars like to be around 12:1.
Last edited by TTPMatt; Jun 7, 2005 at 01:30 PM.
Originally Posted by TTPMatt
Realquick: He's done a few mods to the car. He is a good customer of ours and he was at our dyno day this past weekend. Car was in the 14.1:1-14.6:1 range the whole way up to 6k. I suggested not to make anymore runs on the car and to do the tune when he can. We have worked out something with him already and tomorrow the car will be tuned to its full potential which also includes our custom timing map, part throttle ltrim tuning, trans tune (Which we already did actually), ses code removal (Done already) and the WOT A/F tuning.
As far as him attending a dyno day, I assume he had been driving his car previous to that dyno day? If so, I'd also assume he has gotten on it on the street (which load the car even more so then a dynojet). If this is true, it proves my point that a low 14 A/F, while hindering the power output, SHOULDNT blow up a naturally aspirated engine.
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Originally Posted by RealQuick
As far as him attending a dyno day, I assume he had been driving his car previous to that dyno day? If so, I'd also assume he has gotten on it on the street (which load the car even more so then a dynojet).
I actually didn't go WOT even once, since about beginning of May. I sorta miss it. Cat went bad, spark plug wire was severed, etc.. new problem each day. This time my tranny (in my opinion) runs too hot on the street. Around 220* according to my gauge.. So I wont be able to go WOT again, until I get a fan for the tranny cooler and may be a deeper trans pan. But at least Ill be able to go WOT while my tranny is cold and highways! Finally.. at least some type of action..
The car, aside from the dyno day, has not seen more than 4000 rpms in a long while.. and thats with my 3600 stall..
Stop assuming.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by RealQuick
Thanks for replying. That was sort of my point to start with, that he'd be able to still make a few runs to atleast get a layout of what the A/F curve looks like. My experience was that those few pulls (N/A of course) wouldnt cause engine damage, especially if it was a low 14 A/F. UNfortunately, Don has witnessed something different.
As far as him attending a dyno day, I assume he had been driving his car previous to that dyno day? If so, I'd also assume he has gotten on it on the street (which load the car even more so then a dynojet). If this is true, it proves my point that a low 14 A/F, while hindering the power output, SHOULDNT blow up a naturally aspirated engine.
As far as him attending a dyno day, I assume he had been driving his car previous to that dyno day? If so, I'd also assume he has gotten on it on the street (which load the car even more so then a dynojet). If this is true, it proves my point that a low 14 A/F, while hindering the power output, SHOULDNT blow up a naturally aspirated engine.
Now,if you drive it for months and hit WOT alot engine damage can happen 
And 14-1 could give you more hp on the dyno.
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
And I've actually seen LS1 motors blow because the A/F was 14-1 Your talking 2 different types of motors
Your talking 2 different types of motors You tried to say marine engines and car engines are totally, diffferent, which they arent 
Gasoline engine = gasoline engine.