New best at Atco 9.95!!!!
11-10-2006, 12:00 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I'm already gonna hit mine next year with 150 out of the hole LOL.... I gotta just to try to keep up!
11-10-2006, 12:35 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by n20stroker
I just put the light weight seat in. Rear seats are out. What sucks is that the iron block addded weight and the th400. The 12 bolt is one heavy bitck too.
Front and rear bumper surports are gone,a/c washer bottle. Going to put some money away and get the kmember and controls arm.
Front and rear bumper surports are gone,a/c washer bottle. Going to put some money away and get the kmember and controls arm.
Plus don't forget all the added weight of the nitrous system and bottle. I think if you go a little nutty, but still livable you can get her down to 3500lbs roughly still heavy but better then now. Just basing it on my car, we are both WS6 TA's. We have similer weight reduction done but I still have my rear bumper support... for now...
LOL3325 - My Race weight
100 - Iron Block + TH400 over the stock block and T56
35 - N2O Stuff
____
3460 + our weight difference +/- things I forgot should be around 3500lbs.
11-11-2006, 07:17 AM
#46
Originally Posted by tektrans
PJ, you're making me think about spraying my motor. I figure a 150 shot and some 30" tires should get me well into the 9's. I was going to build a bigger motor but just can't afford it right now. My motor is built to handle a 300 shot, don't wanna push that hard but I am thinking about the 150. I have the winter to mull it over.
11-12-2006, 08:38 AM
#49
I'm gonna call Cartek monday and talk to them about the 150 shot. They are gonna kick my *** since I had them remove the fogger, hehe.
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
11-12-2006, 10:44 AM
#50
Originally Posted by tektrans
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
Hmmmm, I think it will also depend on your TH350 gearing and converter. But I will say yes, the 30" tire w/ 4.10's will work with 150 shot. More juice, and it might not work.
11-12-2006, 11:13 AM
#52
Originally Posted by tektrans
I'm gonna call Cartek monday and talk to them about the 150 shot. They are gonna kick my *** since I had them remove the fogger, hehe.
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
11-12-2006, 02:09 PM
#53
Originally Posted by tektrans
I'm gonna call Cartek monday and talk to them about the 150 shot. They are gonna kick my *** since I had them remove the fogger, hehe.
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
If you're only going thru at 6400 with the 4.10's and 28's, I'd leave it alone and just try it the way it sits..... you should be able to spin the motor to 7600.. you've got 1200 rpm of room.. enough so I'd try it as it is before doing anything.
11-13-2006, 04:12 AM
#54
Well if I do decide to run the 30"'s it's going to have to be on a drag radial. No way I can carry 30"'s in the back of my car cause they won't fit through the back part of the cage. As it is now I have to deflate the 28''s to get them in there.
It would be pretty cool to drive to the track on the MT ET Radials, click off some high 9's and drive home
Not sure I wanna spin the motor to 7600. I'm at the track 4-5 times a month and I'm on a budget so anything I can do to make my setup reliable and long lasting is the approach I gotta take. I figure the 150 shot and a set of tires makes the most sense right now, I'm gonna call the Cartek boys today and talk about it.
It would be pretty cool to drive to the track on the MT ET Radials, click off some high 9's and drive home
Not sure I wanna spin the motor to 7600. I'm at the track 4-5 times a month and I'm on a budget so anything I can do to make my setup reliable and long lasting is the approach I gotta take. I figure the 150 shot and a set of tires makes the most sense right now, I'm gonna call the Cartek boys today and talk about it.
11-13-2006, 04:51 AM
#55
I dunno how much of the rear bumper cover you have cut off.. but to fit a 30 inch tire in there is gonna take a TON of beating/cutting. I'm looking at what I am gonna have to do to get 28's on my car and don't really care for it, but I'm at the point where I don't have much of a choice.
Ya may want to think about going to a 3.73 too, that would help make the car more streetable if anything, and should help with the RPM situation. Ya wouldn't have to worry about the taller tire screwing with the ride height/car angle and all that either causign your suspension setup to go out of whack.
Ya may want to think about going to a 3.73 too, that would help make the car more streetable if anything, and should help with the RPM situation. Ya wouldn't have to worry about the taller tire screwing with the ride height/car angle and all that either causign your suspension setup to go out of whack.
11-13-2006, 07:11 AM
#57
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I dunno how much of the rear bumper cover you have cut off.. but to fit a 30 inch tire in there is gonna take a TON of beating/cutting. I'm looking at what I am gonna have to do to get 28's on my car and don't really care for it, but I'm at the point where I don't have much of a choice.
Ya may want to think about going to a 3.73 too, that would help make the car more streetable if anything, and should help with the RPM situation. Ya wouldn't have to worry about the taller tire screwing with the ride height/car angle and all that either causign your suspension setup to go out of whack.
Ya may want to think about going to a 3.73 too, that would help make the car more streetable if anything, and should help with the RPM situation. Ya wouldn't have to worry about the taller tire screwing with the ride height/car angle and all that either causign your suspension setup to go out of whack.
11-13-2006, 09:11 AM
#58
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Originally Posted by tektrans
I'm gonna call Cartek monday and talk to them about the 150 shot. They are gonna kick my *** since I had them remove the fogger, hehe.
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
Do you guys think I can keep the 4:10's with a 150 shot if I run 30" tires? I have 28" tires now and I'm going through the traps around 6400rpm's.
11-13-2006, 09:56 AM
#59
Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
I had to trim a little of the bumper cover that was in the wheel well and was able to leave the rest alone. My rear calipers did need to be grinded which sucked just like the fronts. Now 30" tires on the other hand is going to take some cutting and some body work and paint, I guess I'll stick with 28's. Stock shocks and springs and cutting 1.47 60ft.'s with a stick isn't bad. I'll do shocks and springs before going threw the trouble of going with a 30" slick
I get my car to 60 foot in the 1.47 range and I'm going 10.60 on motor... best I've done to date was a 1.52, on the 10.80 pass it was 1.53
It's good to hear the 28's fit relativly easy, that's what I plan to put on my car, 28x10.5 et drag. I figured the inner lip of the bumper cover was coming off.... It's on my list to do over the winter. I'm trying to find another set of welded r/t bogarts for an f body, that way I can have a set with a dot tire, and a non dot tire on them. Even if I have to buy a new pair.... I'll do it.