Hampton Roads...Another New One..
09-16-2008 | 07:40 PM
#921
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10,333
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Well I'm only 23 and felt that owning two of my dream vehicles paid for in cash was worth mentioning. I didn't add my wife's 01 Corolla, maybe I should?
Oh wasn't looking for a miracle oil. Just curious. I always ran Valvoline in my GM trucks. They seemed to do better on it. Anything over $5 a qt. is far too much for me. Never ever been a fan of RP. Back when I worked at Oreilly's Auto Parts Mobil 1 was the best seller for full synthetic by far. Amsoil is great from what I always heard, but you have to rely on finding a reliable source. What is Amsoil running a qt.?
Oh wasn't looking for a miracle oil. Just curious. I always ran Valvoline in my GM trucks. They seemed to do better on it. Anything over $5 a qt. is far too much for me. Never ever been a fan of RP. Back when I worked at Oreilly's Auto Parts Mobil 1 was the best seller for full synthetic by far. Amsoil is great from what I always heard, but you have to rely on finding a reliable source. What is Amsoil running a qt.?
Mobil 1 here also....
The cheapest place to buy it is Walmart in the 5 qt jugs.....
It was $21.96 last time i picked one up...
09-16-2008 | 07:48 PM
#922
Thank you. Do you use their filters? If so which and part number. The store near me does not have a lube shop. I don't like fooling with the books.
Looks like I will be heading to Walmart. I need a jack and stands and oil drip pan anyhow.
If you guys have any other tips, tricks or suggestions to help with the perfromance or any other aspect PLEASE feel free to chime in. I have joined other sites and researched a ton, but you can only learn so much reading ridiculous threads.
Looks like I will be heading to Walmart. I need a jack and stands and oil drip pan anyhow.
If you guys have any other tips, tricks or suggestions to help with the perfromance or any other aspect PLEASE feel free to chime in. I have joined other sites and researched a ton, but you can only learn so much reading ridiculous threads.
09-16-2008 | 09:44 PM
#923
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10,333
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Thank you. Do you use their filters? If so which and part number. The store near me does not have a lube shop. I don't like fooling with the books.
Looks like I will be heading to Walmart. I need a jack and stands and oil drip pan anyhow.
If you guys have any other tips, tricks or suggestions to help with the perfromance or any other aspect PLEASE feel free to chime in. I have joined other sites and researched a ton, but you can only learn so much reading ridiculous threads.
Looks like I will be heading to Walmart. I need a jack and stands and oil drip pan anyhow.
If you guys have any other tips, tricks or suggestions to help with the perfromance or any other aspect PLEASE feel free to chime in. I have joined other sites and researched a ton, but you can only learn so much reading ridiculous threads.
I use them in the TA and the Durango.
09-16-2008 | 11:17 PM
#924
Mobil 1 here also. Wow, I didnt know you could get it so cheap at walmart.....they might night carry the weight i use though. (0w40 i believe)
I usually use K&N Oil filters....although right now im using a FRAN
I usually use K&N Oil filters....although right now im using a FRAN
09-17-2008 | 11:58 AM
#925
synthetic oil is a waste of money unless you have some kind of high hp endurance engine-we run mobil 1 in the 600+ cid marine engines and circle track engines-other than that standard mineral oil is just fine-hell i run shell 15w40 in my 2500+ hp small block-never any bearing issues-all the street engines and drag race engines i build i recommend any good quality mineral oil-valvolene-pennzoil-shell.
no matter what oil you use-make sure its the correct weight per mfg specs-oil weight is dictated by clearances in the engine-too think an oil will starve an engine for oil upon startup because it takes too long to get where it needs,with too thin an oil,the bearings will loose their hydrodynamic wedge then you have metal to metal contact and worn bearings.
no matter what oil you use-make sure its the correct weight per mfg specs-oil weight is dictated by clearances in the engine-too think an oil will starve an engine for oil upon startup because it takes too long to get where it needs,with too thin an oil,the bearings will loose their hydrodynamic wedge then you have metal to metal contact and worn bearings.
09-17-2008 | 05:58 PM
#931
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
synthetic oil is a waste of money unless you have some kind of high hp endurance engine-we run mobil 1 in the 600+ cid marine engines and circle track engines-other than that standard mineral oil is just fine-hell i run shell 15w40 in my 2500+ hp small block-never any bearing issues-all the street engines and drag race engines i build i recommend any good quality mineral oil-valvolene-pennzoil-shell.
no matter what oil you use-make sure its the correct weight per mfg specs-oil weight is dictated by clearances in the engine-too think an oil will starve an engine for oil upon startup because it takes too long to get where it needs,with too thin an oil,the bearings will loose their hydrodynamic wedge then you have metal to metal contact and worn bearings.
no matter what oil you use-make sure its the correct weight per mfg specs-oil weight is dictated by clearances in the engine-too think an oil will starve an engine for oil upon startup because it takes too long to get where it needs,with too thin an oil,the bearings will loose their hydrodynamic wedge then you have metal to metal contact and worn bearings.
Talking like you know something....
Wait.... Nevermind.
09-17-2008 | 07:34 PM
#932
09-18-2008 | 06:09 AM
#934
synthetic oil is a waste of money unless you have some kind of high hp endurance engine-we run mobil 1 in the 600+ cid marine engines and circle track engines-other than that standard mineral oil is just fine-hell i run shell 15w40 in my 2500+ hp small block-never any bearing issues-all the street engines and drag race engines i build i recommend any good quality mineral oil-valvolene-pennzoil-shell.
no matter what oil you use-make sure its the correct weight per mfg specs-oil weight is dictated by clearances in the engine-too think an oil will starve an engine for oil upon startup because it takes too long to get where it needs,with too thin an oil,the bearings will loose their hydrodynamic wedge then you have metal to metal contact and worn bearings.
no matter what oil you use-make sure its the correct weight per mfg specs-oil weight is dictated by clearances in the engine-too think an oil will starve an engine for oil upon startup because it takes too long to get where it needs,with too thin an oil,the bearings will loose their hydrodynamic wedge then you have metal to metal contact and worn bearings.
You got that word from 
09-18-2008 | 06:14 AM
#935
Yeah, I have had quite a few myself. None worth mentioning except the chevy luv with the small-block in it. It was fun but it was a death trap.
09-18-2008 | 03:48 PM
#937
So a bad tie rod end can fail you for emmissions? Looks like I get to replace that. Haven't a clue how either. The shop wanted $150 to do it.
Funny thing is, the guy before me got away with faded head lights and brakes that needed replacing in "a month or so" but a tie rod end was a failure?
Funny thing is, the guy before me got away with faded head lights and brakes that needed replacing in "a month or so" but a tie rod end was a failure?
09-18-2008 | 06:53 PM
#938
I talked with the previous owner of the car today and she stated that he had the car inspected last year at the dealer and everything was fine. He put the wheels on around that time and checked everything. I didn't think the wheel really had any play in it. How do I check into this? I think the shop just wanted to get some money out of me knowing that I was military and would fall for it. Can any one help?
09-19-2008 | 02:05 PM
#939
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Suffolk, VA
So a bad tie rod end can fail you for emmissions? Looks like I get to replace that. Haven't a clue how either. The shop wanted $150 to do it.
Funny thing is, the guy before me got away with faded head lights and brakes that needed replacing in "a month or so" but a tie rod end was a failure?
Funny thing is, the guy before me got away with faded head lights and brakes that needed replacing in "a month or so" but a tie rod end was a failure?
09-19-2008 | 02:22 PM
#940
Why in the hell am I having such bad luck with this car so far? I attempted to change the oil today and first the drain plug was stripping and was a PITA. I get another and replace it. The filter was on super tight thanks to the dealer. I tried a screwdriver which made it worse. Strap wrence failed first, I went back and got the socket style and it won't grap on to the filter now that it was crushed and piereced. WTF am I suppose to do now?
my cell is 757 849 8028
Jared
my cell is 757 849 8028
Jared