My 97 SS has been stalling and cutting out randomly while driving the last few weeks. It's often hard to start in the mornings and is very hard to start after stalling needing either 3 long cranking attempts or just 3 cycles of the key off/on.

No SES light but the symptoms are getting worse and occurring more frequently. Tested fuel pressure and it's near normal -- a bit low at 35 psi but never goes higher under any throttle condition... loses pressure quickly after shutting off the ignition (down to 10 psi within 2 minutes). No evidence of fuel in the vacuum line after the pressure regulator. Fuel filter was swapped out right away. Old plugs were only 2000 miles old but I swapped them out again over the weekend. Coil looks good, no arcing on the wires, no burns and everything is seated ok. When it's not stalling or cutting out it seems to be running fine but maybe just a bit short on power.

I'm thinking fuel pump at this point. Could be coil, ICM or opti but that's where the code scan comes in before I just start throwing money and parts at it. Are there any shops in the greater orlando area that would just do a scan for me without wanting to run the gamut of diagnostics with their corresponding fees and downtime? Or any members with a scan tool that I can meet up with and I'll buy you a lunch and/or a case of beer in exchange for your time/efforts? Autozone was my initial thought but two stores have told me they can only pull active codes when the light is on.

The car is an M6, has pacesetter longtubes, 2.5" x-pipe into spiral flows, SLP CAI, some kind of mild cam that came with the car when I got it.

TL;DR -- need a place to take the car to have it scanned for any stored codes that will do it free/cheap/quick

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

advanced auto parts scan for free all they will do is give yuou the codes write them donw and do your own diaging

 

so does autozone. you can also rent them out from autozone for a price of $159.00

 

Thanks for the tip, I figured they would be like autozone and send me away empty-handed. I just had them check it and there was a stored code of P1361 -- ignition control and/or misfire. Still trying to work out if this is just a leftover from a couple days ago when the SES light was on after an especially nasty bogging/stalling/restarting party or if this points to the real issue. I'll check back once I know more but my offer still stands if anyone can get me in the right direction for a full scan or datalog and maybe narrow this down a bit more.

 

I would do a balance test and figure out which injector is leaking.
Its either a leaking injector,bad FPR or bad fuel pump
causing the quick leakdown and low pressure.
You may also have some ignition problems.

 

How old is the opti spark? I can scan it tonight with my tech 2 if you meet me half way..

 

ill be in orlando friday night on 436 i have a scan tool as well

 

Thanks very much for the replies and offers. PMs sent.

I've got an FPR coming into my possession in the next couple days -- I'll pull the rail and check the injectors when I do that swap.

 

I have a similar problem with my roadmaster. I put a 1996 LT1 with aluminum heads and 49,000 miles from a 1996 Z28 into a buick roadmaster recently. Perfect fit. A week later while doing 40mph I stepped on it and shot to 80mph on a nice stretch. As soon as I got to 80mph the car seemed to stumble and slowed on its own then picked back up. It went a mile more with normal driving (35mph) then shut completely off and rolled to a stop. I tried to restart and it turned over but I could hear a clicking/jangle type sound coming from the engine during my attempt to crank it back up. Checked fuel pressure. GOOD. Checked for spark and found none. Replaced opti and still no spark and still getting the noises during cranking. I also found that I didn't ground the engine. Did I fry the ICM and coil? Is it the oil pump drive gear causing both the noise and the lack of spark, as I'm guessing? I don't know what's going on?

 

sounds like a fuel pump check valve gone bad. Fuel pressure should hold a lot longer after key is turned off.

 

Where are you located. I have hp tuners and will be glad to scan your car.

 

somethig like this for a DIY will work for quick code scanns and info
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Mini-E...-/230936239357

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...l.torque&hl=en