devic

hey guys im lacking in some tool needed to properly diagnose my car and was wondering if any 1 is near or in Pensacola

im def going to need some kind of advanced tech II tool or scanner like hp or somthing maybe a scoope if any 1 has 1 in the area

2000 transam ls1

here the report on the car basically

hey guys hoping some one can help me out with this issue, ive been searching for weeks and replaced near everything on my car with no luck,

well the problem im having is the coils 4,5,7,8 are firing but they are all getting 12 volt constant and ground when the key is turned to the on position, also getting pcm ground and when cranking the car im am getting trigger voltage.

i have tried to switch the left bank with the right bank and i have tried swapping individual coils, yet the same cylinders fire

also i have replace my fuel filter fuel pump and in tank regulator and used compressed air threw the lines (disconnected at the rail and filter)
* i know 1 injector o-ring is leaking on the fuel rail side, but before i replaced the regulator it was @ 40 psi and now it is barley @ 20 psi
- racetronix 255lph
- and a have the hot wire kit but have not installed it yet
- the regulator came with the little black housing that connects to the assembly but i could not get it off so i just switched out the regulator its self

the car does try and crank but does not get to full idle speed kinda like its lopping then bogs and dies after about 2-6 seconds (this is contestant on both fuel pressure's)

the car is showing the check engine light how ever i have no access to a scanner of any worth & the "red" check gauges light is also on

parts replaced:

intake gaskets
torque converter
starter / solenoid
throttle body
throttle body sensors
egr & air delete
fuel filter
racetronix fuel pump 255lph (i have the hot wire kit but have not put it in yet)
oil & transmission fluid
transmission filter
pcv oil catch can
new battery

modified parts:

slp lid
02 simulators
cat gutted
msd wires "i made using the factory connectors and boots"
3" magnaflow cat back
all free mods

a little back history on my car:

had a t-tech done on my transmission after 60,000 miles, not knowing to replace the front and rear seal on the transmission at the same time, ended up blowing the seals out a couple days after, pulled the transmission couldn't get the quick disconnect lines off so i asked my friend to get them of will he just cut them instead, put the seals back in put the transmission back in, bout a month later it started to sound like it was knocking, so i pulled the motor in doing so found out it was the torque converter bolts had not been tighten down enough

car sat down for awhile. finally i put it back together, the car didn't want to stay running at first then i held the rpms up for a few min. straight and it finally started to stay running, went for a drive got on it kinda hard, then it started to try and die when ever idling, so i headed back to my house almost there heard a sound that was almost like a bolt flying around in my bell housing, then the car just powered down all the lights went out wouldn't crank back up or do anything, got the car home found out the starter had broke off the car, ended up pulling the transmission to inspect the flex plate for damage, then the car sat for 3 years until now, and is have the above listed problems

Ls2SilverBullet

y u get on it when no running gud?

88gtman

I am in Pensacola. I have a scanner that can at least get you the trouble codes and possibly some freeze frame data. Where in Pcola are you?

devic

im in cantonment

devic

and it was running really well up till i got on it then it started to bog down at idle

devic

is it possible for u to maybe come by Saturday ? i off work then and wednesday

88gtman

I may be able to. I will PM you my number and you can just text me the address and time and I will see what I can do.

88gtman

Well I ran a scan on his car and it was showing a P0336 trouble code for the crank position sensor. The car would not start and there were no other codes present.