My Engine Committed Suicide Yesterday - RIP
#44
UPDATE:
"New" Tires are on the way to the house. Suspension parts are on a hold as I've got quite a weird idea that I'll run by everyone.
I was looking at this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/562337-no-more-torque-arm-g-force-suspension-setup.html
This guy converts to the short ladder bar setup using these:
http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
They aren't that expensive at $449. I was thinking of using these with a 8.8 rear. I priced everything out and the grand total comes to $1674 for a built 8.8. Including custom 33 spline gundrilled axles, an auburn limited slip, bearings, wheel studs, ladder bar kit, and the 8.8 itself. I know very few people have done something like this before and there isn't a lot of information around, but anyone have any ideas? Things that I'm not too sure about are width, swar bar mounts, panhard bar length / mounts, and how these would work with mini tubbing.
I've been trying to work as much as possible recently to save up and get enough to get this all up and running again. I'm taking my camaro to get fixed tomorrow for $500. I think that's quite a great price for labor, resealing my transmission, and parts. I was planning on doing it myself, but at this point I really need a car to drive.
I think I've got it pretty much planned out what I plan on doing. Right now it's just financial limitations.
- LS2 shortblock, rebuilt with arp rod bolts and maybe head studs
- Conversion wiring
- my 243 heads ported
- cam unknown size (going to be med / large)
- Patriot extreme golds
- Pushrods
- Lightly used LS2 lifters / maybe Caddy ones
- LS2 Timing chain
- Ported LS6 oil pump
- Used QTP 1 3/4s
- Y pipe out the passenger's side with a boom tube
- Crank pulley
- LS7 / LS2 clutch / flywheel combo
- LS6 / LS2 intake manifold? Not sure yet
- Racetronix 255 Plug and play
I know it's not the cheapest way of doing things, but I think I can wait in order to get things the way I want them. Hell, I waited 4 years to get this car and this shouldn't take nearly as long.
Things I have to do anyways:
- Get brakes bled. My brake light on the dash won't turn off
- Replace rear tires
- Switch front two tires
- Alignment
- Break in my new brakes
- Get SFC installed
I also need some other random parts if anyone knows of any local selling these help me out:
- F body oil pan
- Center bolt valve covers (They have different coil brackets than the perimeter ones don't they?)
"New" Tires are on the way to the house. Suspension parts are on a hold as I've got quite a weird idea that I'll run by everyone.
I was looking at this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/562337-no-more-torque-arm-g-force-suspension-setup.html
This guy converts to the short ladder bar setup using these:
http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
They aren't that expensive at $449. I was thinking of using these with a 8.8 rear. I priced everything out and the grand total comes to $1674 for a built 8.8. Including custom 33 spline gundrilled axles, an auburn limited slip, bearings, wheel studs, ladder bar kit, and the 8.8 itself. I know very few people have done something like this before and there isn't a lot of information around, but anyone have any ideas? Things that I'm not too sure about are width, swar bar mounts, panhard bar length / mounts, and how these would work with mini tubbing.
I've been trying to work as much as possible recently to save up and get enough to get this all up and running again. I'm taking my camaro to get fixed tomorrow for $500. I think that's quite a great price for labor, resealing my transmission, and parts. I was planning on doing it myself, but at this point I really need a car to drive.
I think I've got it pretty much planned out what I plan on doing. Right now it's just financial limitations.
- LS2 shortblock, rebuilt with arp rod bolts and maybe head studs
- Conversion wiring
- my 243 heads ported
- cam unknown size (going to be med / large)
- Patriot extreme golds
- Pushrods
- Lightly used LS2 lifters / maybe Caddy ones
- LS2 Timing chain
- Ported LS6 oil pump
- Used QTP 1 3/4s
- Y pipe out the passenger's side with a boom tube
- Crank pulley
- LS7 / LS2 clutch / flywheel combo
- LS6 / LS2 intake manifold? Not sure yet
- Racetronix 255 Plug and play
I know it's not the cheapest way of doing things, but I think I can wait in order to get things the way I want them. Hell, I waited 4 years to get this car and this shouldn't take nearly as long.
Things I have to do anyways:
- Get brakes bled. My brake light on the dash won't turn off
- Replace rear tires
- Switch front two tires
- Alignment
- Break in my new brakes
- Get SFC installed
I also need some other random parts if anyone knows of any local selling these help me out:
- F body oil pan
- Center bolt valve covers (They have different coil brackets than the perimeter ones don't they?)
#45
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 668
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ls2
hey bro
the only thing i dont understand about your build is the LS2 shortblock that you are set on.
if you were building a monster n/a motor, and weren't working on a budget id say it would be worth it, but beeing that your build appears that your wanting something that makes decent power but tame enough for a DD, and on a budget, well i woudn't fork out the extra money for the LS2.
what im gettin at is your build is lookin like around 400 HP, you can easily get that from a LS1 and save yourself some money on the shortblock assy, and not havin to do any conversion wiring. Also the ARP Headstuds probably a bit overkill if your sticking with stock heads, just get new bolts from GM save yourself a couple hundred there as well.
the only thing i dont understand about your build is the LS2 shortblock that you are set on.
if you were building a monster n/a motor, and weren't working on a budget id say it would be worth it, but beeing that your build appears that your wanting something that makes decent power but tame enough for a DD, and on a budget, well i woudn't fork out the extra money for the LS2.
what im gettin at is your build is lookin like around 400 HP, you can easily get that from a LS1 and save yourself some money on the shortblock assy, and not havin to do any conversion wiring. Also the ARP Headstuds probably a bit overkill if your sticking with stock heads, just get new bolts from GM save yourself a couple hundred there as well.
#48
Originally Posted by Eurospec2
hey bro
the only thing i dont understand about your build is the LS2 shortblock that you are set on.
if you were building a monster n/a motor, and weren't working on a budget id say it would be worth it, but beeing that your build appears that your wanting something that makes decent power but tame enough for a DD, and on a budget, well i woudn't fork out the extra money for the LS2.
what im gettin at is your build is lookin like around 400 HP, you can easily get that from a LS1 and save yourself some money on the shortblock assy, and not havin to do any conversion wiring. Also the ARP Headstuds probably a bit overkill if your sticking with stock heads, just get new bolts from GM save yourself a couple hundred there as well.
the only thing i dont understand about your build is the LS2 shortblock that you are set on.
if you were building a monster n/a motor, and weren't working on a budget id say it would be worth it, but beeing that your build appears that your wanting something that makes decent power but tame enough for a DD, and on a budget, well i woudn't fork out the extra money for the LS2.
what im gettin at is your build is lookin like around 400 HP, you can easily get that from a LS1 and save yourself some money on the shortblock assy, and not havin to do any conversion wiring. Also the ARP Headstuds probably a bit overkill if your sticking with stock heads, just get new bolts from GM save yourself a couple hundred there as well.
Yes, I could put in a LS1 and be done with it much sooner but I'm not really in any crazy hurry. I want to do this once and do it the way I want to do it within my limits. Along with looking towards the future as to not spend extra money on things I don't need later when I decide to tear into it again. I'm not too worried about DDing it as I'll have my camaro to drive around. It get's about the same fuel economy, but I can buy the cheap gas so that'll help a little.
I was also thinking about just using some stock head bolts to save a little money. Does anyone know if the perimeter coil brackets are different than the center bolt ones?
#49
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 668
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
It's just that at looking at ls1 shortblocks there is only a marginal price increase between the two. I'm looking at it as why would I spend $1000 to put the same thing in there when I could spend $1500-2000 and put in something much better? The LS2 has a larger range of cubic inch possibilities along with better stock performance. Eventually I want to build a solid roller 402 with some ported dart heads kind of like this engine: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=647910
Yes, I could put in a LS1 and be done with it much sooner but I'm not really in any crazy hurry. I want to do this once and do it the way I want to do it within my limits. Along with looking towards the future as to not spend extra money on things I don't need later when I decide to tear into it again. I'm not too worried about DDing it as I'll have my camaro to drive around. It get's about the same fuel economy, but I can buy the cheap gas so that'll help a little.
I was also thinking about just using some stock head bolts to save a little money. Does anyone know if the perimeter coil brackets are different than the center bolt ones?
Yes, I could put in a LS1 and be done with it much sooner but I'm not really in any crazy hurry. I want to do this once and do it the way I want to do it within my limits. Along with looking towards the future as to not spend extra money on things I don't need later when I decide to tear into it again. I'm not too worried about DDing it as I'll have my camaro to drive around. It get's about the same fuel economy, but I can buy the cheap gas so that'll help a little.
I was also thinking about just using some stock head bolts to save a little money. Does anyone know if the perimeter coil brackets are different than the center bolt ones?
i see what your sayin bro, but if i were you id either get it back on the road for cheap then build that roller 402 you want, or just build the roller 402 now since you have the camaro to drive, whatever you decide good luck with your build!
#51
Originally Posted by bluenyghthawk
why not go 6.0 iron block there cheap
#53
Quick Update:
I've been working on gathering parts and saving up some money to get this thing moving under it's own power again:
Parts:
I've got some used 295/30/18s to replace the old 285s that are missing huge chunks out of them.
I also acquired some 42lb / hour green tops for $200 shipped.
I then sold a bunch of random stuff I had lying around my house, stereo equipment, etc... $1200 cash - money for fireworks for the 4th.
Hopefully, I can start getting the things that matter now.
I've been working on gathering parts and saving up some money to get this thing moving under it's own power again:
Parts:
I've got some used 295/30/18s to replace the old 285s that are missing huge chunks out of them.
I also acquired some 42lb / hour green tops for $200 shipped.
I then sold a bunch of random stuff I had lying around my house, stereo equipment, etc... $1200 cash - money for fireworks for the 4th.
Hopefully, I can start getting the things that matter now.
#56
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
I have my old LPE shortblock going to Speedfab tomorrow to get new/bearings & rings.
It has Manley forged flat tops with -3cc valve reliefs.
This engine will be sold as a complete long block.The heads are LPE stage 3 805 castings(98 ls1).They are heavily cnc ported with 2.02/1.57 SS valves & new 918 springs.They flow around 300 cfm & have 62cc chambers.The cam included in the assembled engine is an ol' reliable TR224.This engine made 417 rwhp with a slightly smaller cam...
Head & rod bolts will be ARP.
lemmie know if your interested.
It has Manley forged flat tops with -3cc valve reliefs.
This engine will be sold as a complete long block.The heads are LPE stage 3 805 castings(98 ls1).They are heavily cnc ported with 2.02/1.57 SS valves & new 918 springs.They flow around 300 cfm & have 62cc chambers.The cam included in the assembled engine is an ol' reliable TR224.This engine made 417 rwhp with a slightly smaller cam...
Head & rod bolts will be ARP.
lemmie know if your interested.
#57
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Plant City, Florida
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I feel ya man, my motor died on the way home from class.....eight months ago.
And I was working on pulling the old one all day yesterday, and accomplished nothing except soreness and a bit of skin missing where the exhaust skidplate smashed my right hand into the ground.
And I was working on pulling the old one all day yesterday, and accomplished nothing except soreness and a bit of skin missing where the exhaust skidplate smashed my right hand into the ground.
#58
Originally Posted by hpmotorsports
I hope you got 8 injectors
Originally Posted by FASTERthanYOU
Please tell me u didnt spend 1200 bux on fireworks... i only count $1134 anyway. somesone owes u 66 bucks.
#60
Originally Posted by 2000Z28ls1
What kind of after market parts are you selling I'm in the market and would like to help you out with some money. if you created a parts thread will you send me the link?