My new car
Nice ride- have fun Here by popular demand, pics of my exhaust system
I also decided against keeping it the way it is. Instead I have a list of peformance mods Im going to do.
Performance intake manifold SLP 30041 $550
Cold Air intake SLP 21047 $278.00
SLP Programmer 27007T $490
SLP Exhaust system 31043 $390
SLP MAF Sensor 23060 $177
FAST 90mm Throttle Body $460
SLP Heavy Duty Oil Pump and timing chain 55002 $315
SLP Headers-Ceramic Long Tube 30052 $855
Racetronix Fuel System $250
Accel Performance Fuel injectors 36LB $295
MSD Digital 6 plus ignition $320
Transparent K&N Lid $120
SLP Camshaft and Hydraulic Roller $390
I also decided against keeping it the way it is. Instead I have a list of peformance mods Im going to do.
Performance intake manifold SLP 30041 $550
Cold Air intake SLP 21047 $278.00
SLP Programmer 27007T $490
SLP Exhaust system 31043 $390
SLP MAF Sensor 23060 $177
FAST 90mm Throttle Body $460
SLP Heavy Duty Oil Pump and timing chain 55002 $315
SLP Headers-Ceramic Long Tube 30052 $855
Racetronix Fuel System $250
Accel Performance Fuel injectors 36LB $295
MSD Digital 6 plus ignition $320
Transparent K&N Lid $120
SLP Camshaft and Hydraulic Roller $390
Nice ride, might I suggest the following critique of your quest for power.
Performance intake manifold SLP 30041 $550
Waaay over priced....You can pick up a LS6 intake manifold on the board for ~300
Cold Air intake SLP 21047 $278.00
All you need is the air lid. 99
SLP Programmer 27007T $490
Total and complete waste of money. A proper tune four your setup should only run 300. If you want to change tire sizes-for your slicks when you goto the track, pick up a HPP3 on the board for peanuts.
SLP Exhaust system 31043 $390
Ok, fine mod- really loud if the Loud Mouth- but still that is pricy @ 390
SLP MAF Sensor 23060 $177
Please, Please stay away from this can of magic beans. All it does is lean out the factory fat girl fbody fueling. Furthermore with your total list you have complied you will go lean with this number.
FAST 90mm Throttle Body $460
Plenty-O- ported TB's around for much less.
SLP Heavy Duty Oil Pump and timing chain 55002 $315
Good idea- very pricey.
SLP Headers-Ceramic Long Tube 30052 $855
This is around the same price range as QTP or Kooks stainless headers. Nothing wrong with coated- but once again at 855???
Racetronix Fuel System $250
Fine idea but, a bit overkill as you didn't mention heads. Maybe down the road...Good price, great product.
Accel Performance Fuel injectors 36LB $295 Again, fine idea but no mention of heads. What size cam? You could grab a deal on some 28.8s for a fair price...
MSD Digital 6 plus ignition $320
Total waste of money. There are many, many very fast vehicles still using the stock ignition system. GM did really well on this system.
SLP Camshaft and Hydraulic Roller $390
Specifications? Any cam that is worth the effort will require springs, retainers, locks and pushrods.
You didn't mention what rear you have? 3.23 or 2.73?? If 2.73s consider 3.73s 3.23s will be fine for a while...
Now with all that money you just saved the most important mod for any A4 is a good stall converter.
I was not trying to talk down to you or berate your choices of mods. I think you have a nice car to start modifying and hope you reach all of your goals for it. Starting out with a bone stocker is a great begining but, there is alot to do and it all costs.
Good luck man.
I agree with Doc on this one. Do your homework before you buy anything at all. Ask questions, do a search for each product you think you might want. Some mods are just expensive and dont provide any real benefit, as Doc said.
Be smart, start small with a lid and catback. Dont make your choices because you heard SLP was wonderful. Try calling and talking to some of the sponsers here.
Be smart, start small with a lid and catback. Dont make your choices because you heard SLP was wonderful. Try calling and talking to some of the sponsers here.
Doc's recommendation is a good one. I see about $1800 in things you may not need now. Here is what I have and what it runs. It has an MS4 cam,NX 125 wet kit,QTP LT and Y pipe with magnaflo cat back. SLP subframe connectors.The suspension is BMR LCA, panhard,DS saftey loop, TA with trans crossmember. The rearend is a strange 12 w/4.10's. On bogarts with MT drag radials 275/50/15. It went 11.037 @ 128.46 1.795 60", Mcleod street twin ,346ci w/ nitrous 125 shot Stock weight.
As for the headers if you are willing go spend that much get the QTP's, they are better. I tried one of those MAFs, it made more problems then performance.
As for the headers if you are willing go spend that much get the QTP's, they are better. I tried one of those MAFs, it made more problems then performance.
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From: Gainesville, Florida
Sorry Im new to this whole thing. I was raised you get what you pay for so I pretty much assumed the more I sunk into this thing the faster I would go.
For example I only use 100 octane from Sunoco and I payed an extra 30 dollars to get Castrol Syntec European Formula shipped to me. Long story short: I dont put **** in my car. Only the best.
I want to go about 12.20-12.5. I have slicks to put on it. Can anyone point me in the right direction for this this performance (For the bracket class I run I cant break into the 11 second barrier.)
For example I only use 100 octane from Sunoco and I payed an extra 30 dollars to get Castrol Syntec European Formula shipped to me. Long story short: I dont put **** in my car. Only the best.
I want to go about 12.20-12.5. I have slicks to put on it. Can anyone point me in the right direction for this this performance (For the bracket class I run I cant break into the 11 second barrier.)
No need to be sorry, better to be safe. For as much money as you are proposing to spend with the original list of parts your car should be deep in to the 11's (with the right parts). With the right install and tune you will be a very happy camper.
What gears do you have?
What gears do you have?
Thats a Flowmaster muffler. You could cut off those tips and have something decent welded in and save a lil $.
Yeah SLP = WAAY overpriced and not the best.
And a 90m TB will only fit a 90mm intake like a FAST. Not the overpriced reboxed LS6 that SLP sells.
SLP headers SUCK, I had them. drag the ground. Get some Pacesetters for $500 shipped. LS6 oil pump and a good chain for less than $200 total.
Have someone tune the car, I agree with Doc. Do someresearch before you spend $$$. Just trying to help you save some $$$ and not waste it.
Yeah SLP = WAAY overpriced and not the best.
And a 90m TB will only fit a 90mm intake like a FAST. Not the overpriced reboxed LS6 that SLP sells.
SLP headers SUCK, I had them. drag the ground. Get some Pacesetters for $500 shipped. LS6 oil pump and a good chain for less than $200 total.
Have someone tune the car, I agree with Doc. Do someresearch before you spend $$$. Just trying to help you save some $$$ and not waste it.
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Alright heres my new list. SLP parts from SLPonline.com The rest from jegs.
SLP Airbox lid $92
SLP Air Induction $133
FAST LSX Intake Manifold 90mm $889
FAST Throttle body 90mm $535
Hooker Ceramic Headers $449
Flowmaster Cat converter back dual exhaust $329
Looking to be in low 12s. No faster because of my class restrictions
SLP Airbox lid $92
SLP Air Induction $133
FAST LSX Intake Manifold 90mm $889
FAST Throttle body 90mm $535
Hooker Ceramic Headers $449
Flowmaster Cat converter back dual exhaust $329
Looking to be in low 12s. No faster because of my class restrictions
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The FAST 90/90 setup for ~13-14 hundred bucks is going to want to spin high up top to realize the true gains. Your A4 is not going to put up with the sustained high rpms for very long- (that is if you are going to get all of what the FAST has to offer).
You are limited by class- Ok, once again gears?
I still vote for 224ish cam and 32-3600 stall for your setup. Besides the exhaust setup, the cam and stall (and gears if you have 2.73s) are going to be your best bang for your buck mods.
Of course a solid tune will seal the deal for a real consistent bracket racer.
The FAST 90/90 setup for ~13-14 hundred bucks is going to want to spin high up top to realize the true gains. Your A4 is not going to put up with the sustained high rpms for very long- (that is if you are going to get all of what the FAST has to offer).
You are limited by class- Ok, once again gears?
I still vote for 224ish cam and 32-3600 stall for your setup. Besides the exhaust setup, the cam and stall (and gears if you have 2.73s) are going to be your best bang for your buck mods.
Of course a solid tune will seal the deal for a real consistent bracket racer.
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I don't want to sound like I am haranging you...
The FAST 90/90 setup for ~13-14 hundred bucks is going to want to spin high up top to realize the true gains. Your A4 is not going to put up with the sustained high rpms for very long- (that is if you are going to get all of what the FAST has to offer).
You are limited by class- Ok, once again gears?
I still vote for 224ish cam and 32-3600 stall for your setup. Besides the exhaust setup, the cam and stall (and gears if you have 2.73s) are going to be your best bang for your buck mods.
Of course a solid tune will seal the deal for a real consistent bracket racer.
The FAST 90/90 setup for ~13-14 hundred bucks is going to want to spin high up top to realize the true gains. Your A4 is not going to put up with the sustained high rpms for very long- (that is if you are going to get all of what the FAST has to offer).
You are limited by class- Ok, once again gears?
I still vote for 224ish cam and 32-3600 stall for your setup. Besides the exhaust setup, the cam and stall (and gears if you have 2.73s) are going to be your best bang for your buck mods.
Of course a solid tune will seal the deal for a real consistent bracket racer.
I wouldnt dont he Fast 90 stuff, thats a lot of money and not a lot of benefit on a stock motor, I would go with a cam first and heads next and just get yourself a WS6 intake if you car doesnt allready have it. The Fast 90 is way overkill for the limited mods you are looking at. Pick up a ported and polished stocker throttle body. The rest sound ok. I dont know that I would spend money on the air induction deal either. Not enough benefit in 1/4 mile to make it worth it. If you are bracket racing you might want to consider a line lock and fan switch to cool it while its sitting there. Dont forget a converter and rear gears either.
There is no doubt you will make mistakes. I have re-replaced several things because of bad decisions up front. It is just part of the learning curve. You will eventually figure out what works and what doesnt.
There is no doubt you will make mistakes. I have re-replaced several things because of bad decisions up front. It is just part of the learning curve. You will eventually figure out what works and what doesnt.
Ok. Give me links to Jegs for the products for your recommended setup. I would like low 12s because I like going fast but my class does have a 12 second limit. I could deal with 11.95 or so because I could lower the rear tire air pressure accordingly to slow it down and get more grip.
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
I agree with a lot of what is being said above. Doing the proven mods will get you to your goal without spending that much $$ that your lists are coming up with.
If the car will be raced a good bit (which I'd guess is a yes), you will want to beef up the 10-bolt with at least a girdle, maybe a good set of aftermarket axles once you start making more power. If you want to drop the coin, a 12-bolt or 9-inch would be a good idea. People can make the 10-bolts live, but with what I'm guessing you will be doing on racing time, you may want to plan on it.
My Formula with the auto trans and 3.23 gears ran 13.47 at 103 mph bone stock on the stock goodyears cutting a 2.06 60 foot. I now have a lid, K & N panel filter, Flowmaster catback, MSD wires (one stock one came apart), a T/A rear end girdle, and a custom tune by Jeremy Formato. Not much spent, she's run 12.92 at 107 mph in good air at full weight (around 3650) and with 139,000 miles the engine and trans has never seen a problem. A set of headers and a converter swap would drop me into the mid 12s without much trouble, and they can be had used all day on the board.
At the very least, you might want to consider using someone local for the parts that has experience on these cars as opposed the mail order giants. It always comes in handy when you have questions or problems to be able to talk to someone closer than hundreds of miles away, and chances are you'll see them at your local track as well.
Just my thoughts....
Derek
If the car will be raced a good bit (which I'd guess is a yes), you will want to beef up the 10-bolt with at least a girdle, maybe a good set of aftermarket axles once you start making more power. If you want to drop the coin, a 12-bolt or 9-inch would be a good idea. People can make the 10-bolts live, but with what I'm guessing you will be doing on racing time, you may want to plan on it.
My Formula with the auto trans and 3.23 gears ran 13.47 at 103 mph bone stock on the stock goodyears cutting a 2.06 60 foot. I now have a lid, K & N panel filter, Flowmaster catback, MSD wires (one stock one came apart), a T/A rear end girdle, and a custom tune by Jeremy Formato. Not much spent, she's run 12.92 at 107 mph in good air at full weight (around 3650) and with 139,000 miles the engine and trans has never seen a problem. A set of headers and a converter swap would drop me into the mid 12s without much trouble, and they can be had used all day on the board.
At the very least, you might want to consider using someone local for the parts that has experience on these cars as opposed the mail order giants. It always comes in handy when you have questions or problems to be able to talk to someone closer than hundreds of miles away, and chances are you'll see them at your local track as well.
Just my thoughts....
Derek
Line lock is totally legal, it locks your front brakes so you can do better burnouts without ruining your rear brakes.
You should give EFI Alchemy a call TOMORROW just to talk to him in person, the messages come across so much better man to man. He is giving you a lot of good information on parts. Which is nice b/c he is saving you A LOT of money from that first list that you posted up, you have overpayed for many of those parts you can get other places much cheaper, and some of the others, once more experienced, you would be changing them out to something else.
Example. "slp intake" is the same thing as a ls6 intake that can be had here in the forsale section for 300 dollars almost daily! That and a ported stock throttle body for 75-100 bucks is all you will need. Tons of people running that set up.
"slp intake setup" all you need is a lid of any kind like fast toys, tsp, etc, many people make them and they can be had for around 100 bucks, then for a few more dollars you can find some smooth bellows( connects the lid to the throttle body) and your done in that department.
"msd ignition" totally un-needed on these cars like has been previously mentioned. That would have been several hundred down the drain. The stock ignition system with the COP setup is actually the best there is, and you already have it on the car.
Like they have all said, just post up in here or in the correct sections on the board and ask questions, or search for what your wanting to know, it has been asked before, anybody can guarantee that. All the info is out there that you need to know that will help you. But I would still give these guys WWW.EFIAlchemy.com a call and talk to him.
Good Luck
You should give EFI Alchemy a call TOMORROW just to talk to him in person, the messages come across so much better man to man. He is giving you a lot of good information on parts. Which is nice b/c he is saving you A LOT of money from that first list that you posted up, you have overpayed for many of those parts you can get other places much cheaper, and some of the others, once more experienced, you would be changing them out to something else.
Example. "slp intake" is the same thing as a ls6 intake that can be had here in the forsale section for 300 dollars almost daily! That and a ported stock throttle body for 75-100 bucks is all you will need. Tons of people running that set up.
"slp intake setup" all you need is a lid of any kind like fast toys, tsp, etc, many people make them and they can be had for around 100 bucks, then for a few more dollars you can find some smooth bellows( connects the lid to the throttle body) and your done in that department.
"msd ignition" totally un-needed on these cars like has been previously mentioned. That would have been several hundred down the drain. The stock ignition system with the COP setup is actually the best there is, and you already have it on the car.
Like they have all said, just post up in here or in the correct sections on the board and ask questions, or search for what your wanting to know, it has been asked before, anybody can guarantee that. All the info is out there that you need to know that will help you. But I would still give these guys WWW.EFIAlchemy.com a call and talk to him.
Good Luck
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Im going to stop by a local speed shop when I get out of class tommorow. Then Im going to call up EFI and compare prices. I really feel guilty talking to someone else after the help doc has given me but please understand that it is more convient for me to go to some place local then to travel 60 miles. Again, very sorry. I usually like to repay people that help me. If doc's prices are cheaper for what Im looking for then I'll go to him in a heartbeat.
Alright, from the help I've gotten here(Thank you), I've compounded a list of things I need to make this one bad machine. Keep in mind this is also my daily driver until I can get the money to buy another car, probably a 6 cylinder Firebird for gas reasons.
-New Gears (3.73)
-Stall Converter
-Air Box Lid
-Cam
-Catback Exhaust (My current exhaust has a leak somewhere and I dont like it, might as well replace it)
-Set of ceramic headers
-Heavy Duty Oil Pump???
-Rear End Girdle
-Heavy duty fluid and fuel lines???? (I just thought about that)
The ones with question marks are my ideas from keeping the car from blowing up because it is my daily driver as mentioned. I am aiming for mid to low 12s. No line lock because Im not going to be doing burnouts. Im going to be running hoosier DOT slicks and I they can handle leaving off about 800-1000 RPMs no problem.
Alright...did I get it right this time?
Alright, from the help I've gotten here(Thank you), I've compounded a list of things I need to make this one bad machine. Keep in mind this is also my daily driver until I can get the money to buy another car, probably a 6 cylinder Firebird for gas reasons.
-New Gears (3.73)
-Stall Converter
-Air Box Lid
-Cam
-Catback Exhaust (My current exhaust has a leak somewhere and I dont like it, might as well replace it)
-Set of ceramic headers
-Heavy Duty Oil Pump???
-Rear End Girdle
-Heavy duty fluid and fuel lines???? (I just thought about that)
The ones with question marks are my ideas from keeping the car from blowing up because it is my daily driver as mentioned. I am aiming for mid to low 12s. No line lock because Im not going to be doing burnouts. Im going to be running hoosier DOT slicks and I they can handle leaving off about 800-1000 RPMs no problem.
Alright...did I get it right this time?
No problemo Mi Amigo. We all started where you are at some point. Some of us had to learn the hard way with our wallets and time on senseless parts and installs. This thread proves why LS1tech is still a cool board to hang out and have fun on. Enjoying what you are doing and helping others with the same interest is heaven on earth for me.
I do enjoy going to the track in Gville, Orlando, Valdosta, and Tampa- I understand the drive issue, especially with this being your daily driver.
Funny thing, out of all the veterans including myself replying here, we all forgot to mention the most important mod of all....You get a gold star mentioning the BEATER mod!
Nothing will help you enjoy your car more than this mod. You will alleveiate stress and, really appreciate your car even more if you daily drive a beater.
I do enjoy going to the track in Gville, Orlando, Valdosta, and Tampa- I understand the drive issue, especially with this being your daily driver.
Funny thing, out of all the veterans including myself replying here, we all forgot to mention the most important mod of all....You get a gold star mentioning the BEATER mod!
Nothing will help you enjoy your car more than this mod. You will alleveiate stress and, really appreciate your car even more if you daily drive a beater.
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From: Gainesville, Florida
Funny thing, out of all the veterans including myself replying here, we all forgot to mention the most important mod of all....You get a gold star mentioning the BEATER mod!
Nothing will help you enjoy your car more than this mod. You will alleveiate stress and, really appreciate your car even more if you daily drive a beater.
Nothing will help you enjoy your car more than this mod. You will alleveiate stress and, really appreciate your car even more if you daily drive a beater.
Also, did I get my parts list right this time? Anything I forgot
Everything on the parts list looks a lot better now. I'd do the ported oil pump whenever you do the cam, so you dont have to go into the motor two times, saves a bunch of work. Lastly, no need for fuel lines, tons of people run their stock feed line with a 255 drop in pump or the racetronix pump and harness kit(your best bet). The racetronix kit can support you deep into the 10's on stock lines. Other than that, looks good!
Main thing, is get on here and read about the mod you are thinking about doing, helps a ton. I learned so much getting on here and reading through old topics for a few months. When your buying parts for the car like you mentioned your local speed shop, thats perfectly fine as long as they are familiar with the ls1, if they are not, I would rather order from a shop thats farther away, or even online/phone, b/c they will know what the best mods to do are, and would save you a bunch of money in the long run.
Main thing, is get on here and read about the mod you are thinking about doing, helps a ton. I learned so much getting on here and reading through old topics for a few months. When your buying parts for the car like you mentioned your local speed shop, thats perfectly fine as long as they are familiar with the ls1, if they are not, I would rather order from a shop thats farther away, or even online/phone, b/c they will know what the best mods to do are, and would save you a bunch of money in the long run.
Yes this is a very good site to read, ask and learn before going into your wallet/bank account. Hopefully the weather holds out for Saturday, I am planning on going to Gainesville. Hope to see you there. Mark