My new car
For example I only use 100 octane from Sunoco and I payed an extra 30 dollars to get Castrol Syntec European Formula shipped to me. Long story short: I dont put **** in my car. Only the best.
I want to go about 12.20-12.5. I have slicks to put on it. Can anyone point me in the right direction for this this performance (For the bracket class I run I cant break into the 11 second barrier.)
lid, loudmouth, yank SS3800 (converter) and nitto drags, with 2.73s and launching at 3500rpms, 12.2 for me with a 1.70 60'. Getting a cam (depending on the size) will raise the powerband up and you'll need to do gears to match it. Headers are ok for some topend but then you'll need to get the car tuned for a/f. Just do those 4 mods that I posted and thank me later
Don't spend that extra money for higher octane gas (93 is fine), you're not running higher compression for it and it will make you run slower since it burns at a slower rate. Autozone sells the German Castrol, that's where I get mines.
You might want to consider buying the beater/daily driver before you start modding this car. The classic pitfall of modding a bone stock daily is most likely you won't be able to address all of the major systems at once...Motor, tranny, drive train, suspension- that's alot of stuff to swallow at once. Then if you start modding one system and put off another you could find the weakness of the remaining stock parts and then you are *** out for a while you lick your wounds. If you have the beater to fall back on to get to school, work, etc. then the stress of breaking a component isn't such big deal.
-As mentioned before, don't worry about the lines.
-You will need a tranny cooler for any stall converter worth the effort of installing. Consider a deep tranny pan as well.
GM delibrately shelved a lot of performance with the fourth gen Fbody. It has the same motor as the flagship vette but, weighs more and doesn't have as good of suspension. GM didn't want the guy who bought a Fbody for ~20k to be anywhere close to the guy who spent ~50k on the flagship of performance vette. Besides the obvious weight and suspension difference, the great equalizer was placed in the tune. The tune on a stock 4th gen Fbody (especially the A4) has alot of room for improvement by it'self and even more performance can be realized with some basic mods.
The best answer as to which mods to persue can be only be found from within, with some profesional advice. You sound like a nice young man starting out with a project that has alot of potential. After careful consideration of your budget move forward toward your goal with what is best for you-not what is best for some shop or parts company.
Originally Posted by nhraracer
Also, did I get my parts list right this time? Anything I forgot
-You will need a tranny cooler for any stall converter worth the effort of installing. Consider a deep tranny pan as well.
GM delibrately shelved a lot of performance with the fourth gen Fbody. It has the same motor as the flagship vette but, weighs more and doesn't have as good of suspension. GM didn't want the guy who bought a Fbody for ~20k to be anywhere close to the guy who spent ~50k on the flagship of performance vette. Besides the obvious weight and suspension difference, the great equalizer was placed in the tune. The tune on a stock 4th gen Fbody (especially the A4) has alot of room for improvement by it'self and even more performance can be realized with some basic mods.
The best answer as to which mods to persue can be only be found from within, with some profesional advice. You sound like a nice young man starting out with a project that has alot of potential. After careful consideration of your budget move forward toward your goal with what is best for you-not what is best for some shop or parts company.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Gainesville, Florida
You might want to consider buying the beater/daily driver before you start modding this car. The classic pitfall of modding a bone stock daily is most likely you won't be able to address all of the major systems at once...Motor, tranny, drive train, suspension- that's alot of stuff to swallow at once. Then if you start modding one system and put off another you could find the weakness of the remaining stock parts and then you are *** out for a while you lick your wounds. If you have the beater to fall back on to get to school, work, etc. then the stress of breaking a component isn't such big deal.
-As mentioned before, don't worry about the lines.
-You will need a tranny cooler for any stall converter worth the effort of installing. Consider a deep tranny pan as well.
GM delibrately shelved a lot of performance with the fourth gen Fbody. It has the same motor as the flagship vette but, weighs more and doesn't have as good of suspension. GM didn't want the guy who bought a Fbody for ~20k to be anywhere close to the guy who spent ~50k on the flagship of performance vette. Besides the obvious weight and suspension difference, the great equalizer was placed in the tune. The tune on a stock 4th gen Fbody (especially the A4) has alot of room for improvement by it'self and even more performance can be realized with some basic mods.
The best answer as to which mods to persue can be only be found from within, with some profesional advice. You sound like a nice young man starting out with a project that has alot of potential. After careful consideration of your budget move forward toward your goal with what is best for you-not what is best for some shop or parts company.
-As mentioned before, don't worry about the lines.
-You will need a tranny cooler for any stall converter worth the effort of installing. Consider a deep tranny pan as well.
GM delibrately shelved a lot of performance with the fourth gen Fbody. It has the same motor as the flagship vette but, weighs more and doesn't have as good of suspension. GM didn't want the guy who bought a Fbody for ~20k to be anywhere close to the guy who spent ~50k on the flagship of performance vette. Besides the obvious weight and suspension difference, the great equalizer was placed in the tune. The tune on a stock 4th gen Fbody (especially the A4) has alot of room for improvement by it'self and even more performance can be realized with some basic mods.
The best answer as to which mods to persue can be only be found from within, with some profesional advice. You sound like a nice young man starting out with a project that has alot of potential. After careful consideration of your budget move forward toward your goal with what is best for you-not what is best for some shop or parts company.
How nessecary is a tranny cooler. That would really push me over my budget for right now
11 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
You wanna run low 12s, high 11's?
Do the same mods I have:
Hooker Full Exhaust
QTP E-Cutout
Comp cam 231 237 .589 .595 112 LSA
Vigilante 3600 Stall
B&M Trans Cooler
Ls1 Underdrive pulley/Harmonic Balancer
Ls6 Intake
SLP LID
Eibach Lowering Springs
Bilstein Struts/shocks/mounts
Trac-Tek Tubular *Weld in* Subframes
Autometer Trans Temp Gauge
SLP Line-lock
Power Slot Rotors
HAWK pads
BMR Driveshaft Loop
Let me put it this way: If you don't buy a tranny cooler, don't bother with the stall.
Get the guys at Alchemy to tune it and you'll be more than set.
I'll let you drive my car at the track meet (on the street of course) if you wanna know what it would feel like to drive a cammed/stalled car.
Do the same mods I have:
Hooker Full Exhaust
QTP E-Cutout
Comp cam 231 237 .589 .595 112 LSA
Vigilante 3600 Stall
B&M Trans Cooler
Ls1 Underdrive pulley/Harmonic Balancer
Ls6 Intake
SLP LID
Eibach Lowering Springs
Bilstein Struts/shocks/mounts
Trac-Tek Tubular *Weld in* Subframes
Autometer Trans Temp Gauge
SLP Line-lock
Power Slot Rotors
HAWK pads
BMR Driveshaft Loop
Let me put it this way: If you don't buy a tranny cooler, don't bother with the stall.
Get the guys at Alchemy to tune it and you'll be more than set.
I'll let you drive my car at the track meet (on the street of course) if you wanna know what it would feel like to drive a cammed/stalled car.
Last edited by Local-heretic; Feb 14, 2008 at 04:48 PM.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Gainesville, Florida
For a Stall, 3.73 gears, Girdle, tune and install I was quoted $2200 at a local speed shop. Considering my limit for my first round of mods was 2000. Im really pushing it by including the Transcooler in there. Hopefully I can get a free install for all the labor Im paying for because a trans fan is going to set me back about 150 bucks
Guys at the speed shop said I should be running about 12.70 on slicks with these parts and a few tricks they're going to do. My next step is going be heads, cam and exhaust. But thats far away.
Guys at the speed shop said I should be running about 12.70 on slicks with these parts and a few tricks they're going to do. My next step is going be heads, cam and exhaust. But thats far away.
For a Stall, 3.73 gears, Girdle, tune and install I was quoted $2200 at a local speed shop. Considering my limit for my first round of mods was 2000. Im really pushing it by including the Transcooler in there. Hopefully I can get a free install for all the labor Im paying for because a trans fan is going to set me back about 150 bucks
Guys at the speed shop said I should be running about 12.70 on slicks with these parts and a few tricks they're going to do. My next step is going be heads, cam and exhaust. But thats far away.
Guys at the speed shop said I should be running about 12.70 on slicks with these parts and a few tricks they're going to do. My next step is going be heads, cam and exhaust. But thats far away.
Installation for a stall and cooler should be about ~400 dollars and a transmission tune ~125 dollars (no need for a full tune yet) you should be just under your limit.
lid - 100 dollars (install yourself)
catback - 300 dollars (install yourself)
converter - ~ 700 dollars
cooler - 40 dollars
drag radials - 300 dollars (30 dollars mounting/balancing)
trans tune - 125 dollars
installation for converter & cooler - ~400 dollars
Total $1995 and you'll meet your goal of low 12s.
Last edited by Roarin_8; Feb 14, 2008 at 11:20 PM.
If you don't do a cooler and put a converter in it... say bye bye to the stock transmission fast. Also, if you plan to "race" the car often... aka beat the hell out of it on slicks. Be prepared to break parts.
I would do headers, lid, tune, gears and a cooler/converter. If you price it out.. it "can" be done.. Key is to SHOP AROUND for parts.. buy a used one part here and there. Or get bent over by your "local speed shop"
buddy of mine ran 12.60's with just a lid and headers, loudmouth and (BASIC) tune. (stock converter and stock 3.23 gears)
I would do headers, lid, tune, gears and a cooler/converter. If you price it out.. it "can" be done.. Key is to SHOP AROUND for parts.. buy a used one part here and there. Or get bent over by your "local speed shop"
buddy of mine ran 12.60's with just a lid and headers, loudmouth and (BASIC) tune. (stock converter and stock 3.23 gears)
The price you were quoted from your local shops sounds outrageous to me....
Telling you.... KNOWLEDGEABLE LS1 SHOP! What "tricks" were they talking about? Sounds kinda funny to me," bring that thing over here, we'll put some "tricks" on that thang fo free! " (after we rape you on the other 2 installs)
Telling you.... KNOWLEDGEABLE LS1 SHOP! What "tricks" were they talking about? Sounds kinda funny to me," bring that thing over here, we'll put some "tricks" on that thang fo free! " (after we rape you on the other 2 installs)
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Just to post up my experience/costs so far for reference.
Car came with lid/catback
LS6 intake $315
used 3500 stall $300 (i came upon a really good deal on a stall with less that 3000 miles.....just keep your eyes open)
Tranny cooler $50
Ported/polish TB (free with my dremel I already had)
Full exhaust (headers to true duals w/ xpipe) $650
MS4 cam and supporting items (springs, ls2 chain, oil pump, etc) $900
used hptuners software and brand new lc1 wideband $600
dyno time for tuning by me and a friend $120
Subframe connectors $190 installed
Line lock $130
Nitto drag radials $350
Didn't add it up, but i'm sure it's well over the 2 grand mark. My car should be a solid high 11 second car now since I recently put on drag radials. Best time was 12.0@114 mph before subframes and nittos. Hoping to hit 11's tomorrow!
Car came with lid/catback
LS6 intake $315
used 3500 stall $300 (i came upon a really good deal on a stall with less that 3000 miles.....just keep your eyes open)
Tranny cooler $50
Ported/polish TB (free with my dremel I already had)
Full exhaust (headers to true duals w/ xpipe) $650
MS4 cam and supporting items (springs, ls2 chain, oil pump, etc) $900
used hptuners software and brand new lc1 wideband $600
dyno time for tuning by me and a friend $120
Subframe connectors $190 installed
Line lock $130
Nitto drag radials $350
Didn't add it up, but i'm sure it's well over the 2 grand mark. My car should be a solid high 11 second car now since I recently put on drag radials. Best time was 12.0@114 mph before subframes and nittos. Hoping to hit 11's tomorrow!
11 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Just to post up my experience/costs so far for reference.
Car came with lid/catback
LS6 intake $315
used 3500 stall $300 (i came upon a really good deal on a stall with less that 3000 miles.....just keep your eyes open)
Tranny cooler $50
Ported/polish TB (free with my dremel I already had)
Full exhaust (headers to true duals w/ xpipe) $650
MS4 cam and supporting items (springs, ls2 chain, oil pump, etc) $900
used hptuners software and brand new lc1 wideband $600
dyno time for tuning by me and a friend $120
Subframe connectors $190 installed
Line lock $130
Nitto drag radials $350
Didn't add it up, but i'm sure it's well over the 2 grand mark. My car should be a solid high 11 second car now since I recently put on drag radials. Best time was 12.0@114 mph before subframes and nittos. Hoping to hit 11's tomorrow!
Car came with lid/catback
LS6 intake $315
used 3500 stall $300 (i came upon a really good deal on a stall with less that 3000 miles.....just keep your eyes open)
Tranny cooler $50
Ported/polish TB (free with my dremel I already had)
Full exhaust (headers to true duals w/ xpipe) $650
MS4 cam and supporting items (springs, ls2 chain, oil pump, etc) $900
used hptuners software and brand new lc1 wideband $600
dyno time for tuning by me and a friend $120
Subframe connectors $190 installed
Line lock $130
Nitto drag radials $350
Didn't add it up, but i'm sure it's well over the 2 grand mark. My car should be a solid high 11 second car now since I recently put on drag radials. Best time was 12.0@114 mph before subframes and nittos. Hoping to hit 11's tomorrow!
It'd be bad *** if we both hit 11's tomorrow, running each other.
7 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,834
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Weather looks a little better now than previous. Get your asses there early and you can use the early cool air to get those magic runs in!