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Patriot Duals the best spring for FI?

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Old 11-01-2008, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimmy P
Make sure you give them adequate seat pressure. My ETP's came with Patriot Dual valve springs, and I was getting a ton of valve float. We had to take the springs off and shim them. Its time consuming to do, so make sure you shim them properly the first time.
Best post here, surprised no else mentioned anything about seat pressure settings. That was the first thing my head builder asked and with my cam I couldn't use Patriots because of the amount of shimming needed caused coil bind. That was me though, most would be fine with them, just plan it out..
Old 11-01-2008, 06:39 PM
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What cam are you running DanZ28???
Old 11-01-2008, 09:22 PM
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Not to big, it has a .615 lift only but any shimming on most drop in springs and you get coil bind. I went with a nice spring good to .700 lift and shimmed from there...
Old 11-02-2008, 12:02 PM
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Not to big, it has a .615 lift only but any shimming on most drop in springs and you get coil bind. I went with a nice spring good to .700 lift and shimmed from there...
Do you happen to have a part number? I am considering getting some new springs as well. We have the Patriot Duals setup at 165lbs on the seat, and I am still getting a little bit of valve float on top. We can shim them a little more, but then it gets prety close to coil bind.
Old 11-02-2008, 12:09 PM
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I was thinking the same thing was happening to me when I went with the Patriot Extremes, but it looks like post going SD the SOTP's dip in power around 5500rpm is pretty much gone. Once I get some other things situated via oil restrictors, oil cooler, and inspect the drivetrain fully I will be back on the dyno to make sure that possible float is completely gone.

Originally Posted by Jimmy P
Do you happen to have a part number? I am considering getting some new springs as well. We have the Patriot Duals setup at 165lbs on the seat, and I am still getting a little bit of valve float on top. We can shim them a little more, but then it gets prety close to coil bind.
Old 11-02-2008, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmy P
Do you happen to have a part number? I am considering getting some new springs as well. We have the Patriot Duals setup at 165lbs on the seat, and I am still getting a little bit of valve float on top. We can shim them a little more, but then it gets prety close to coil bind.
I'll have to find the part number, they are Ferrea springs though and they were bank compared to many springs out there.

165# seat pressure should be good I would think. Depending on your lifter, you probably want to keep it under 175# so you don't colapse them on the open pressures. Also remember to leave at least .050" before coil bind..
Old 11-02-2008, 06:57 PM
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Wow dan.... i never had a problem with Patriot springs... they had better open and closed seat pressure then the Comp 921's we were thinking about using...

Like u said thats why its good to check.

New springs myself on my new heads.... good to .700 its going to be fun.
Old 11-02-2008, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Wow dan.... i never had a problem with Patriot springs... they had better open and closed seat pressure then the Comp 921's we were thinking about using...

Like u said thats why its good to check.

New springs myself on my new heads.... good to .700 its going to be fun.
I had the AFR upgraded springs good to .650 lift, same specs I believe as the patriots. The machine shop measured the spring rates and lets just say advertised and actual were not the same. we couldn't shim them because coil bind. I looked at every spring out there I think and couldn't find squat untill I ran across these PAC Alloy springs from Ferrea good to .700 lift. Didn't want to pay the loot, but unless I went solid roller, I couldn't find a spring that would get 175# seat pressure and and not bind.

Can't wait to see your monster back up .

Dan
Old 11-02-2008, 10:36 PM
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I am going to be running the Thunder Racing 215-230 .601/.574 blower cam in the Forged LS6 i am buliding. Merkel racing just set up my heads, I have the texas duel spring kit , same i think as the PG springs and cran springs.
Merkel had to shim the springs a little , for the .600 lift and the 15 PSI i will be running, from what i know shimming them is not a problem.

Now i need to know what lifter to use, I have new in the box Comp R's but heard they dont like a lot of pre load, otherwise they can coil bind the springs when they pump up.
Old 11-03-2008, 07:44 AM
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PRC springs here.
Old 11-03-2008, 08:12 AM
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When I bought my car from the original owner it came with an MTI stealth 2 cam, forged bottom end from TSP, stock 241 heads, LS6 intake, stock manifolds and the Patriot Dual Gold springs. I was putting the blower on and changed the springs out with the new 243 heads that came with 918's. I had 2 broken springs, they had snapped on the second coil of the outer springs, the locks and all were still in place, but they were definitely broken. I replaced them with new springs, and ran them for a while, until I decided to change the lifters out and when I disassembled the engine again to change them out I found some 1/4" pieces loose and floating around in the heads again, wasn't able to see which ones were broken again, but there was definitely some broken shards of springs. My duals are noisy as hell too, lifters are still ticking, but engine runs strong and when Mike and Ron from Vengeance were here tuning they thought that maybe I should switch to a stronger single spring to try to quiet the noisy valvetrain down a bit.

Just my $.02
Old 11-03-2008, 08:22 AM
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If you have 3-4 broken springs with 2 sets of heads, then you have a bigger problem. That is not ANY spring manufactures fault!
Old 11-03-2008, 08:44 AM
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I'm not blaming the PG's, I don't know how the original owner set-up the heads with the PG's on them, the 243's on the car now weren't shimmed, but the pieces this time were smaller and the broken coils were not on the same cylinder last time nor do they appear to be on the same cylinder this time either. Just stating what I saw on two different engine tear-downs. It is very possible that they weren't set-up right and bound causing them to break, and may have been stressed this time causing what appears to be the ends to break off of I think the bottom.

Again, just stating what I saw on my tear-downs, and trying to emphasize the importance of checking seat pressure and such.
Old 11-03-2008, 09:04 AM
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PRCs here too. I used them on my last 2 cars (other was an aggressive h/c setup). Springs are good to .650 lift and come with Ti retainers in the kit.
Old 11-03-2008, 11:03 AM
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Seat/open pressure is more important for FI than N/A, for obvious reasons, and the more boost you make the harder it is to hold the valve in place. I took the advice of my machine shop and upgraded to be on safe side, the patriot extreme is a nice spring and has a great price for sure...As mentioned, the point is to check your stuff out...

The best hydraulic lifter out there is probably the Morell (or similar), they have been known to take some decent spring pressure.
Old 11-03-2008, 01:16 PM
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Anyone running these:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...t.phtml?p=1665
I thought they were a great spring for the price.
Old 11-03-2008, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rufretic
Anyone running these:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...t.phtml?p=1665
I thought they were a great spring for the price.
They look similar to the patriot extreme spring. they have a 1.82 install height to give them a .680 lift but most LSx heads have a 1.80 install height which would put these at .660 lift like the extremes, but probably give better seat/open pressure.

With that big blower on your car, what did you set yours up at?
Old 11-03-2008, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
They look similar to the patriot extreme spring. they have a 1.82 install height to give them a .680 lift but most LSx heads have a 1.80 install height which would put these at .660 lift like the extremes, but probably give better seat/open pressure.

With that big blower on your car, what did you set yours up at?
That's what I liked about them was that they had a higher closed seat pressure than all the others I found. I didn't shim them because I was worried about coil bind because my cam is fairly big, .635 lift if I remmember right. If I run into issues with valve float then I'll have to look into shimming them. My heads are just temp right now so I won't be running it all out yet. Once I upgrade to 6 bolt heads I'll make sure I get the springs set-up the best way possible.
Old 11-03-2008, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rufretic
That's what I liked about them was that they had a higher closed seat pressure than all the others I found. I didn't shim them because I was worried about coil bind because my cam is fairly big, .635 lift if I remmember right. If I run into issues with valve float then I'll have to look into shimming them. My heads are just temp right now so I won't be running it all out yet. Once I upgrade to 6 bolt heads I'll make sure I get the springs set-up the best way possible.
Sounds good. Don't worry about shimming these, there is not enough room . If your install height is 1.8" now like i would think, you only have .025" before bind, if you float a valve, well it will be interesting.

Dan
Old 11-03-2008, 05:52 PM
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I have a set of PSI drop in Behive springs, came with titanium retainers. They helped with my 155.000 mile stock LS1. I was floating my intake valves at 8 PSI @ 5300 RPM, and now I can run 12 PSI with meth again.


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