I had them coated by a company in Houston called Polydyn.

 

It would have to be cut perfectly flat and the correct length. I believe the crank pulley normally stops when that butt's up against the lower sprocket.

 

I thought that it stops when the bolts head hits the end of the crank.

 

I dont know if you saw this post....


In a stock application the crank pulley seats against the crank timing chain gear. You mentioned your pump is shimmed out and if it is shimmed enough the pulley could be hitting the oil pump gear before it stops on the crank gear like it should.

I would think that is the only explination of the crank pully not seating as far as it should. Unless you actually think it should go on further and it is where it needs to be and the kit is built very close.

 

The kits are built close, but they are all built the same which leads me to think the same as you Anthony. I would go back to a stock LS6 oil pump and Timing chain. I would almost garuantee that solves the clearance issues.

 

I just got off the phone with LME and they are telling me that even with the double roller timing chain and the melling pump that the pulley still sits in the stock location. Shimming out the pump is just to clear the chain. So switching back to the stock chain and pump won't make a differents. I could still turn down the stock crank but I would possibly have a problem with the belt lining up. So now I am kinda confused on what to do. I can still order a underdrive pulley but I think the belt will hit the housing. So I guess I can have the pulley turned and at least try it since that will be free.

 

If you can pull the front timing cover and take a pic I can help you get it sorted. Your looking for which gear sticks out the furthest, the crank timing chain gear or the oil pump gear that rides on it. I would assume LME would have checked this if they were doing something "different".

 

 

Based off that pic. The oil pump is shimmied. Which had the Oil pump gear moved out. Now if the crank seats aginats that gear then it will also be shimmed out which would close up the clearances.

We went through this on Brians car. Alot of machining went into gettin it to work right.
I will see if I can find that link.

Dont know if will help any:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/8714887-post1.html

 

It looks to be sticking out alittle more, but cant tell 100% from the pic, needs to be at a slightly different angle.

 

I am about to take it down to the machine shop now, if it gets fucked up I have another stock on at the house. We will see.

 

before you go machining it down why dont you try and put a belt on it and see if thats even the issue. if its sticking out too far for the belt to line up fine but you could have another issuse all together.

 

TheBlur found this post and it shoots down the machining idea I had.

So he called another friend we have that has a 25% UD pulley sitting around. He brings it over and we see what it looks like. It clears the turbo with plenty of room. But just as I thought the belt hits now.




But we got another idea. If I bought another T4 flange and used it as a spacer to lift the turbo up just a little bit higher it would clear everything.





Seem like a reasonable idea?


On a good note the guy gave me the UD pulley for FREE, BALLIN!

 

Yeah thats is ok to do I have done it before. Just make sure that anything downpipe related will still work after the change.

Like I said just make sure the balancer is seating on the crank timing gear only, if it is on the oil pump it will say bye bye.

 

Awesome, the downpipe has room to play with since its only 3".

 

I dont know if its been asked, but what kind of numbers are you expecting with the T76 on the 370? Also is this your DD, Im asking because isnt an 8.6:1 CR pretty low for a street car?

 

As far as just numbers if I could touch 800rwhp I would be pretty damn happy. This isn't a DD, I have a 2000 s-10 I drive to work and a 07 TB SS for whenever else. After all the reading I did before I ordered the motor the average compression for a turbo car was between 8.5-9.0:1 so I went between those two. I don't think it is to low, it should let me make decent power on pump gas by keeping the cylinder pressure lower.

 

i think anyone making 800rwhp with a single 76 would be damn happy.

 

NicD made 810rwhp @ 16lbs with a 346 and Josh made 770rwhp @15lb with a 370 going through a th400. So that gives me hope.

 

I will be following this! Thanks for posting. I want to do a similar build with mine. Everything i have seen from KTP has been top notch. I am debating between this and a D1sc.