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Looking for 600+whp with ls1

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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 10:42 AM
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I find that most of the problems on big hp properly tuned stock engines is related to crappy pump gas.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 11:42 AM
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yea I agree thats why you should go really conservative with the tune like maybe even get it tuned on 87 or 89 octane to prevent any mishaps with a bad batch of super unleaded.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by blueshark123
This is true however it really only applies to forced induction and this is the decision I have to make is whether the extra cash and effort is worth it when I could possibly achieve the same results NA with a bit of juice. Obviously I wouldn't go around triggering the nitrous on the street all the time either.
If you just want the 600+ rwhp on tap some of the time then id say go with a higher compression build. Im not sure though if it would be any "safer" spraying your way to 600+ rwhp on a stock block as opposed to going with some form of FI but a larger cam and a set of AFR 205's, fast 90/90 (or 92/92), 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers, ory/catback or x-pipe/true duals, underdrive pulley, etc, etc should get you to to the 475 rwhp range. They spray say a 100 shot on top of that and you would be there. Again not sure if this would live longer since you would not be spraying all the time but that could potentially be an option?
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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hehe, i say save alot of your money and just do heads, cam, and nitrous. i have a 1992 ls1 coupe, and ive seen swaps out there running low 10's with just 450rwhp. so if you did the heads and cam you could run 10's n/a and with a nice 125-150 shot you would easily be in the 9's. who cares what it puts down on the dyno.
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28MASS
If you just want the 600+ rwhp on tap some of the time then id say go with a higher compression build. Im not sure though if it would be any "safer" spraying your way to 600+ rwhp on a stock block as opposed to going with some form of FI but a larger cam and a set of AFR 205's, fast 90/90 (or 92/92), 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers, ory/catback or x-pipe/true duals, underdrive pulley, etc, etc should get you to to the 475 rwhp range. They spray say a 100 shot on top of that and you would be there. Again not sure if this would live longer since you would not be spraying all the time but that could potentially be an option?
See either way if I go NA w/ nitrous or FI I plan on atleast doing pistons and rods short block related.
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ls1Rx-7
hehe, i say save alot of your money and just do heads, cam, and nitrous. i have a 1992 ls1 coupe, and ive seen swaps out there running low 10's with just 450rwhp. so if you did the heads and cam you could run 10's n/a and with a nice 125-150 shot you would easily be in the 9's. who cares what it puts down on the dyno.
Got any examples. I went onto silviav8forums and I wasn't too impressed with the times and 60 foots they were pulling. Do you have an FD? If so how much does it weigh total with the LS in it?
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by blueshark123
See either way if I go NA w/ nitrous or FI I plan on atleast doing pistons and rods short block related.
Well if your going to build the shortblock then you could spray your way over 600rwhp easily. Plus you wouldnt have to worry about building a turbo kit or fabbing up the cold side for a SC kit. Callies/compstar rods, arp rod bolts, stock crank, and diamond/mahle/wiseco pistons with nitrous rings could handle a hefty shot, say 175-200hp range. Car would be nasty with a nice direct port setup!

Last edited by 98Z28MASS; Dec 4, 2008 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28MASS
Well if your going to build the shortblock then you could spray your way over 600rwhp easily. Plus you wouldnt have to worry about building a turbo kit or fabbing up the cold side for a SC kit. Callies/compstar rods, arp rod bolts, stock crank, and diamond/mahle/wiseco pistons with nitrous rings could handle a hefty shot, say 175-200hp range. Car would be nasty with a nice direct port setup!
Yeah this is looking like a better option. If I can get the car light enough (sub 2500 lbs) then I might be able to reach my goal with a relatively small shot.

Now excuse the ignorance but what are nitrous rings? Are these rings made of different material or gap differently? I'm just use to buying wiseco rings and gapping them myself for the appropriate application.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 09:57 AM
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i'm doing about the same thing in my 240sx right now. starting with a 5.3L lm7 (iron block) 317 heads, ls1 pistons. but im only hoping to hover around 450 hp. idk how much experiance you have with 240's but they dont like to hook up with the stock style suspension. with my old setup (355 4bolt, vortec heads, edelbrock performer, mild cam) the car would smoke 255's at a sixty role. and that was a stock th350 with the 99$ jegs 3000 stall converter. difference being i and performance tires not drag radial but the car was an animal.

just sharing my experiance... be prepared to look into an 8.8 swap.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by blueshark123
Yeah this is looking like a better option. If I can get the car light enough (sub 2500 lbs) then I might be able to reach my goal with a relatively small shot.

Now excuse the ignorance but what are nitrous rings? Are these rings made of different material or gap differently? I'm just use to buying wiseco rings and gapping them myself for the appropriate application.
Not sure if it would be the same as gapping them yourself but I know there are specific rings out there for N20 (gapped properly for whatever shot of N20 your going with). If you know how to gap your rings correctly for the amount of spray your going to be using then you should be all set.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by torch'd
i'm doing about the same thing in my 240sx right now. starting with a 5.3L lm7 (iron block) 317 heads, ls1 pistons. but im only hoping to hover around 450 hp. idk how much experiance you have with 240's but they dont like to hook up with the stock style suspension. with my old setup (355 4bolt, vortec heads, edelbrock performer, mild cam) the car would smoke 255's at a sixty role. and that was a stock th350 with the 99$ jegs 3000 stall converter. difference being i and performance tires not drag radial but the car was an animal.

just sharing my experiance... be prepared to look into an 8.8 swap.
Yeah I know the independent rear sucks but whatever I don't mind rolling around on drag radials. I do that now with my rsx and I would definitely be using 26 or 28 inch slicks at the track. How involved is a 8.8 swap on a s14? Got any details/threads on people having done this?
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 09:47 PM
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im going to run 26"305's (got em used cheap... ) but also planning on mini tubbing.

there is a fastback out here locally fully tubbed with an 8.8... over built in my opinion but to each his own. will try and get ya some pics. i'm trying to keep my trunk at least partially.
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 02:43 AM
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sorry i meant fd's and ls1 swaps in general. i had an FD but sold it because the car needed alot of work and would not fit my budget. i have a 1992 coupe with a stock ls1. IF you could get ur car to hook with 450rwhp a 2500 lbs car SHOULD run mid to low 10's but we all know its a pain in the *** getting traction in these cars cause their so damn light. get some 15x10 and run some MT ET streets you will hook with those for sure just make sure ur drivetrain can handle it.
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by GT67METHV
Maggie's fall off up top...and all though great for street, and everyday
reliability, they aren't capable of adding power down the road like the other two
FI options (turbos being the best choice). also, they're not as efficient and won't make the hp numbers per lb of boost as a turbo or centri.
Yes. But also a major reason could be, because, not until recently, roots type superchargers didnt fit under the hood of F bodys??
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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it has nothing to do with it fitting under the hood or not. it has to do with the blower being too small to support over 600rwhp. you also dont have to worry about heat soak with the centri supercharger or a turbo... maggies heat soak like a bitch.
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Old Dec 14, 2008 | 06:41 PM
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If you're basing your hp numbers required, off of the drag times you see here on LS1tech you need to realize that the 240sx is 600 lbs lighter than an f-body stock. Which is generally good for more than half a second in the quarter mile with the same hp. Just some food for thought.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:23 PM
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procharger d1sc on 10lbs here!!!
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