My Truck Manifold Build
#1
My Truck Manifold Build
I am just starting my truck manifold build
Here is a pic of the old lt1 setup
Here is the same car with the ls1 swapped.
The Run Down
Flipped truck manifolds
Lucas 42lb injectors
MP T70 .96ar
Ebay 38 MM Wastegate 6 PSI Spring
Ebay RFL BOV
Ebay Intercooler
224/224 112LSA
9" with 4.11s
T56
Im not looking for everyones opinions on the ebay parts. Im just showing my build.
Here are some pics from tonight,
I got the injectors swapped,new tune loaded,ac,alt removed. Manifolds mounted. PS lines re routed out of the way.
I ran into a problem on the passenger side tonight. The rear stud was hitting the k member so I torched that out and now that the manny is mounted the stud is so close to the frame rail there is no way to get a nut on it. Tomarrow I will remove the studs and try some bolts or allen headed bolts. Open to suggestions.
Here is a pic of the old lt1 setup
Here is the same car with the ls1 swapped.
The Run Down
Flipped truck manifolds
Lucas 42lb injectors
MP T70 .96ar
Ebay 38 MM Wastegate 6 PSI Spring
Ebay RFL BOV
Ebay Intercooler
224/224 112LSA
9" with 4.11s
T56
Im not looking for everyones opinions on the ebay parts. Im just showing my build.
Here are some pics from tonight,
I got the injectors swapped,new tune loaded,ac,alt removed. Manifolds mounted. PS lines re routed out of the way.
I ran into a problem on the passenger side tonight. The rear stud was hitting the k member so I torched that out and now that the manny is mounted the stud is so close to the frame rail there is no way to get a nut on it. Tomarrow I will remove the studs and try some bolts or allen headed bolts. Open to suggestions.
#2
Looks good. Did you move the top radiator hose? It looks like it might get cooked in the first pick.
Also, are the 4.11 gears to deep for a turbo car? I am just asking. Don't take it as a flame.
Also, are the 4.11 gears to deep for a turbo car? I am just asking. Don't take it as a flame.
#3
you could remove the one stud and put a bolt thru it so the nut is on top.
another possible option is you could cut off the flange and rotate. mount the manifold back on with out the flange, hold the flange up to the manifold and mark its place when it clears everything, then weld it back on.
i'm not sure how that will work out on cast iron tho. (maybe a shop or or veteran welder could do it)
curious what manifolds you used on the old LT1 setup?
another possible option is you could cut off the flange and rotate. mount the manifold back on with out the flange, hold the flange up to the manifold and mark its place when it clears everything, then weld it back on.
i'm not sure how that will work out on cast iron tho. (maybe a shop or or veteran welder could do it)
curious what manifolds you used on the old LT1 setup?
Last edited by simple; 01-10-2009 at 03:46 AM.
#5
You can say that again.. It took me and my nephew with craftsman professional vise grips turning at the same time to get mine out.. They are a bit stubborn. BTW I'm having the same problem with that same location. It looks like a bolt is going to have a tough time too.. Does any have any suggestions?
#6
Shoulda bought a 10 dollar stud puller from pepnapaautocheckers to pull the studs...much easier that way and with a can of PB blaster.
yeah tubular K member and you won't have any issues. Plenty of people have used the stock K member, but had to notch it...how much I don't know as I've had the BMR K member on the car since my procharger days. It can be done tho.
J
yeah tubular K member and you won't have any issues. Plenty of people have used the stock K member, but had to notch it...how much I don't know as I've had the BMR K member on the car since my procharger days. It can be done tho.
J
#7
M6, 4.10 gears in a hybrid Ford 8.8/GM 10 bolt differential, Nitto DR and 3,650 lb daily driver. It is a ton of fun and drives like a stocker off boost but is absolutely wicked once it gets into boost. The 4.10's get me off the line quickly and once you plant the gas pedal it just slaughters the cars and sport bikes I've raced. I got another sportbike (not sure but it looked like a 7xx cc) today. The car doesn't creep past the bike, it walks briskly past him in third. I had to let off at the top of third because the rear of the car was starting to slip sideways. I feathered it a little, got straight and then finished the execution. I like 4.10's
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#12
Believe it or not, Home Depot has em.
They are in the fastener section in the big bolt chests...the ones with the slide out drawers.
They get a bit spendy, but are worth it.
J
They are in the fastener section in the big bolt chests...the ones with the slide out drawers.
They get a bit spendy, but are worth it.
J
#15
Here is a update. All the piping for the hot side is complete. I got most of the cold side put togther tonight. Things left to do
Install Pillar
Tap Pan
Run Gauges
Alt Relo
Finish Cold side.
Install Pillar
Tap Pan
Run Gauges
Alt Relo
Finish Cold side.
#17
#18
Here is a update with some more shitty camera phone pics. Its all done but cant start it because im waiting on a damn drain line and flange.
Drain and flange will be here 2-2
Drain and flange will be here 2-2
#20
Here are some better pics. The car is 99.8% complete. Waiting on the drain flange and line to get here then it will be 100%. Should be able to test drive it tuesday night!
Ground Clearance is awesome
Ground Clearance is awesome