too much meth?
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my fuel system is a bit different to yours....
i run 100 % alchy, mechanical injection...
drag only
running a bit richer , decreases the chances of dentination,
with a deg or 2 extra of timing , the engine tune up is safer.
the extra meth makes more torque , but the engine will not make the same hp up higher in the rpm ( only about 7-9 % difference)
if your ignition is not up to the task , then the meth can get past the rings and "milk" up the engine oil.
by checking engine dip stick , you can manage it, along with a/f meter
when i first put my turbo meth into car and was testing, we were running way rich, ( like nearly 1 gal/ min toooo much fuel)
no harm was found on bore of cylinders.... only milking the oil...
we now use just on 5 gals / minute of meth fuel for a pass... ( 10 liters...)
trust me, better to be slightly on the rich side of the tune up...
it cost less in the long run..
ash
In addition to Bob's comments above about ring wear, I would also start to worry about needing to change the oil after every couple runs due to contamination - it turns milky and nasty (edit - as crashly notes above - he beat me to it!).
Jim
the compression temp alone with evaporate the meth / water mix, with out boost involved...
how hot does the oil get ?
the meth should evaporate out under full load, and general driving,
the breather will show ' steam' getting blown out..
I used to run my buick GN up to 32psi, 24-26deg timing on 89 octane fuel. Dual M10 nozzles on a alkycontrol kit ramping up to as much as they would flow over 28psi, not 1 single problem at all. Figured it was around 35-45% of my fuel, running around 10.3:1 AFR on my guage. 36# bluetops maxxed out at around 22psi and at 32psi would read 100%DC at 4000 rpm, shift at 5600
That motor saw 32psi multiple times every day and ran this way for about 22k miles on stock everything. I added up all the methanol i used that i could remember and it was in the range of 160-180 gallons, i would fill a 5 gal can every friday at the track. When the motor was tore down (135k mile original longblock) still had the factory crosshatch perfectly visible and was rebuilt with a light hone and STD pistons
Gary
I will agree getting it over 20% is a chore, and you really have to know what your doing, but once you get a system figured out, just keep going. I had alot of trouble up around 20% but once i got into the 30% range it went very smooth.


