How much power is too much for dd...
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On The Tree
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From: DA SUCK,
How much power is too much for dd... I have a 06 GTO, w/ a front mount twin turbo setup.57mils... The motor goes back in next week. I have a single 255walbro and 72lbs injectors with dual resistor boxes to convert impedance for low to high. I made about 650whp on 8 psi and meth when I chipped my #7 piston.
Fast forward a few weeks of down time, while the 370c.i. gets built I'm contemplating what odds and end might be my limiting factors once the motors been broken in. (1000mi.) is what I'm told.
So far the biggest thing I'm concerned about is fuel. I was gonna do a BAP but keep reading about how much of a "band aid solution" they are. So I think when the time is right I'm gonna do a Nasty Fuel Kit and be done with it. Which brings me to my final inquiry. HOW MUCH POWER IS OVER KILL FOR A DAILY DRIVER ON STREET RADIALS.
(I've ruled out slick for now cuz that's a slippery slope that requires by my math another 8k err so for 315's slicks, solid rear axle, suspension,mini tube and tranny 4L80E...) I currently have 275's on a 9.5 wheel and I've had one hell of a time keeping her pointed straight under full throttle. So I'm thinking 550-575whp is where I should stop until I can @ least do fuel. Please help me decide.
Fast forward a few weeks of down time, while the 370c.i. gets built I'm contemplating what odds and end might be my limiting factors once the motors been broken in. (1000mi.) is what I'm told.
So far the biggest thing I'm concerned about is fuel. I was gonna do a BAP but keep reading about how much of a "band aid solution" they are. So I think when the time is right I'm gonna do a Nasty Fuel Kit and be done with it. Which brings me to my final inquiry. HOW MUCH POWER IS OVER KILL FOR A DAILY DRIVER ON STREET RADIALS.
(I've ruled out slick for now cuz that's a slippery slope that requires by my math another 8k err so for 315's slicks, solid rear axle, suspension,mini tube and tranny 4L80E...) I currently have 275's on a 9.5 wheel and I've had one hell of a time keeping her pointed straight under full throttle. So I'm thinking 550-575whp is where I should stop until I can @ least do fuel. Please help me decide.
NEVER TOO MUCH POWER! I have DD'd a car for the last 3 summers that has had well over 600whp. Get a good electronic boost controller and youll never know the difference until you need it. In the unlikely event you are getting pulled on the highway, reach over and click in another 5psi
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: DA SUCK,
NEVER TOO MUCH POWER! I have DD'd a car for the last 3 summers that has had well over 600whp. Get a good electronic boost controller and youll never know the difference until you need it. In the unlikely event you are getting pulled on the highway, reach over and click in another 5psi
It really depends on the cars setup and how boost comes on and what kind of tire you run. With 28" nitto drag radials i'm comfortable around the 700 rwhp range.
If your setup hits really hard and fast causing loss of traction you might only be comfortable with 500 rwhp. The cars setup really dictates the streetable power. From what i've experienced though most aren't very usable past the 700 rwhp mark. You will need dual pumps for more than 600 rwhp.
I have a cheap and reliable street trans/rear setup. 2.75 rear gears in my 9" and a TH400. Works great.
If your setup hits really hard and fast causing loss of traction you might only be comfortable with 500 rwhp. The cars setup really dictates the streetable power. From what i've experienced though most aren't very usable past the 700 rwhp mark. You will need dual pumps for more than 600 rwhp.
I have a cheap and reliable street trans/rear setup. 2.75 rear gears in my 9" and a TH400. Works great.
Take off the Nittos and put some M/T or M&H drag radials on the rear and you'll have a lot more usable traction. I don't know anyone these days who says you need to break in the motor for 1000 miles. Back in the '70's you needed to have an extended break in period for the cast iron rings. These days we get the part throttle tuning dialed in, we change the oil and we're ready for the wide open throttle tuning. Bob
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On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 198
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From: DA SUCK,
Take off the Nittos and put some M/T or M&H drag radials on the rear and you'll have a lot more usable traction. I don't know anyone these days who says you need to break in the motor for 1000 miles. Back in the '70's you needed to have an extended break in period for the cast iron rings. These days we get the part throttle tuning dialed in, we change the oil and we're ready for the wide open throttle tuning. Bob
As far as tires. Drag radials wont be to good on the street especially if they get wet, and they wear so freakin fast, when u daily drive them. Im also trying to stay away from slicks cus i kno once i start to hook there goes the tranny and diff... 3k i dont have right now....
I just dont wanna break anything else, the down time im having now blows. I'm having boost withdraw "BAD"
Last edited by bravoboost; Jan 19, 2009 at 12:34 PM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: DA SUCK,
It really depends on the cars setup and how boost comes on and what kind of tire you run. With 28" nitto drag radials i'm comfortable around the 700 rwhp range.
If your setup hits really hard and fast causing loss of traction you might only be comfortable with 500 rwhp. The cars setup really dictates the streetable power. From what i've experienced though most aren't very usable past the 700 rwhp mark. You will need dual pumps for more than 600 rwhp.
I have a cheap and reliable street trans/rear setup. 2.75 rear gears in my 9" and a TH400. Works great.
If your setup hits really hard and fast causing loss of traction you might only be comfortable with 500 rwhp. The cars setup really dictates the streetable power. From what i've experienced though most aren't very usable past the 700 rwhp mark. You will need dual pumps for more than 600 rwhp.
I have a cheap and reliable street trans/rear setup. 2.75 rear gears in my 9" and a TH400. Works great.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: maryland
i don't get it you prob spent $10k+ for a motor that makes big numbers and then ur not going to spend the $$$ to be able to use it ?
i know a GTO guy that's making 600ish and the best he has mustered is a 13.2. He wanted to pulley up for more power yet didn't want to buy tires.
i guess its for bragging rights but really sounds lame to me
i know a GTO guy that's making 600ish and the best he has mustered is a 13.2. He wanted to pulley up for more power yet didn't want to buy tires.
i guess its for bragging rights but really sounds lame to me
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: DA SUCK,
i plan on doing it later down the rode, my wallet has taken a beating this year. And by beating im mean far more than a weak 10k. THis **** expensive. NO part of my tt setup is a kit, all custom=$$$
Also not everyone lives for track numbers. I'm not after time slips in a controlled environment. I want to win racing in a real word application. With the power im capable of ill need a cage just to run at the track, with a automatic cut off switch for the battery thats relocated to the trunk etc etc . I cant even run at the track leagally right now lol.
Its easy to not understand this if u have nuthing much done to ur car. I used to say the same thing. Its basically like this. IN order to go further correctly, it will require another 8grand err so, that i dont have.
315's slicks=800.00
minitub=1800.00
SRA=2000.00
suspension=1500.00
diff=1000.00
twin walbros=700.00....GET THE DRIFT
Also not everyone lives for track numbers. I'm not after time slips in a controlled environment. I want to win racing in a real word application. With the power im capable of ill need a cage just to run at the track, with a automatic cut off switch for the battery thats relocated to the trunk etc etc . I cant even run at the track leagally right now lol.
Its easy to not understand this if u have nuthing much done to ur car. I used to say the same thing. Its basically like this. IN order to go further correctly, it will require another 8grand err so, that i dont have.
315's slicks=800.00
minitub=1800.00
SRA=2000.00
suspension=1500.00
diff=1000.00
twin walbros=700.00....GET THE DRIFT
Last edited by bravoboost; Jan 19, 2009 at 11:44 AM.
i plan on doing it later down the rode, my wallet has taken a beating this year. And by beating im mean far more than a weak 10k. THis **** expensive. NO part of my tt setup is a kit, all custom=$$$
Also not everyone lives for track numbers. I'm not after time slips in a controlled environment. I want to win racing in a real word application. With the power im capable of ill need a cage just to run at the track, with a automatic cut off switch for the battery thats relocated to the trunk etc etc . I cant even run at the track leagally right now lol.
Its easy to not understand this if u have nuthing much done to ur car. I used to say the same thing. Its basically like this. IN order to go further correctly, it will require another 8grand err so, that i dont have.
315's slicks=800.00
minitub=1800.00
SRA=2000.00
suspension=1500.00
diff=1000.00
twin walbros=700.00....GET THE DRIFT
Also not everyone lives for track numbers. I'm not after time slips in a controlled environment. I want to win racing in a real word application. With the power im capable of ill need a cage just to run at the track, with a automatic cut off switch for the battery thats relocated to the trunk etc etc . I cant even run at the track leagally right now lol.
Its easy to not understand this if u have nuthing much done to ur car. I used to say the same thing. Its basically like this. IN order to go further correctly, it will require another 8grand err so, that i dont have.
315's slicks=800.00
minitub=1800.00
SRA=2000.00
suspension=1500.00
diff=1000.00
twin walbros=700.00....GET THE DRIFT
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: DA SUCK,
But I'm not building a car for bragging rights either. I just want usable power. And if not done correctly, there is a point u can cross where more will take the nature of diminishing returns, or breaking things unnecessarily.
Btw saying that im just lame, cus im trying to let my wallet recover for a bit is not "just trying to help" lol
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: DA SUCK,
There was an article in car craft about a yr ago on this subject and all of the experts IE: engineers at turbo companies, nitrous companies etc said that 750HP is about all that you can reliably get to hold on the street. even that is tricky. A friend of mine runs around on 913hp at the crank and it is next to impossible to keep wheel spin in check. Any rain or dew and you are backwards at 2psi of boost. It's not due to his suspension set up either as he 60's in the 1.36ish 9.36 @ 147 on radials. 3300lbs car. He has since backed it down to a 10.0 car just to get better drivability.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 198
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From: DA SUCK,
There was an article in car craft about a yr ago on this subject and all of the experts IE: engineers at turbo companies, nitrous companies etc said that 750HP is about all that you can reliably get to hold on the street. even that is tricky. A friend of mine runs around on 913hp at the crank and it is next to impossible to keep wheel spin in check. Any rain or dew and you are backwards at 2psi of boost. It's not due to his suspension set up either as he 60's in the 1.36ish 9.36 @ 147 on radials. 3300lbs car. He has since backed it down to a 10.0 car just to get better drivability.
Staging Lane
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Bravo: I saw you estimate that a SRA for the GTO is ~2K, but it could end up being much more than that because, to my knowledge there are 2 GTOs with solid axels.
Also, a problem with putting M/T drag radials (probally a 17" for the street) on a DD is the big "R" word (rain). Just another thing to think about.
Also, a problem with putting M/T drag radials (probally a 17" for the street) on a DD is the big "R" word (rain). Just another thing to think about.