Boosted LS2 power limits?
03-02-2009, 04:58 PM
#1
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Boosted LS2 power limits? I'm looking at a Vette with an LS2, it was done by East Coast Supercharging in NJ. The car has a cam, Paxton supercharger and dual nozzle meth kit, and is putting down 730whp on a Dynopack (never heard of that one before)
Ticking time bomb? I was thinking if I did get the vehicle to tame it down some...but ah whats the fun in that
I was just looking to see what you guys thought of it, too much power for a stock bottom end?
He's using VP Racing Methanol...not washer fluid lol
Ticking time bomb? I was thinking if I did get the vehicle to tame it down some...but ah whats the fun in that
I was just looking to see what you guys thought of it, too much power for a stock bottom end?
He's using VP Racing Methanol...not washer fluid lol
03-02-2009, 05:58 PM
#4
It's bound to go sooner or later, all it could take would be some good crisp air, or a tank of gas that's not quite what it is supposed to be. The stock pistons and rods are on the weak side for the power this car is making. Bob
03-02-2009, 06:41 PM
#7
If it's a "good deal" then buy it and have the stock block pulled for a forged rod and piston swap + some ARP hardware and you'd be good to go. You might even want to pulley up and push 17-19psi with pump and meth. $.02
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03-02-2009, 07:52 PM
#11
If your leak down test (ECS is willing to check before sale) comes up good, ECS will be honest with you, just run 7-8lbs for 550-600rwhp on the safe side. No need for the meth at that level. Otherwise, swap out a forged shortblock and turn the boost up. 
Yea, youre looking at an extra $5-7K with a forged 402 installed (I would do). The guy has taken really good care of the car though, but more opinions on here will help you decide. I would do it, I would just drop the boost a bit and save for a shortblock. That would be a fun car with 800+ to the tires.
Yea, youre looking at an extra $5-7K with a forged 402 installed (I would do). The guy has taken really good care of the car though, but more opinions on here will help you decide. I would do it, I would just drop the boost a bit and save for a shortblock. That would be a fun car with 800+ to the tires.
03-02-2009, 08:08 PM
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might be a stupid question, but when I had the GTO, I rarely pushed the car past 5k I think
sure if I was doing a burn out she'd rev up, but if I pushed it that hard accelerating, I'd be hitting triple digits before I knew it
Keeping my foot out of it would basically be doing the same thing as turning down the boost, right?
ah now I'm just trying to justify keeping it at 730whp lol
BTW that was done on a "Dynopack"...never heard of that. perhaps the numbers are on the high side? Like a dynojet vs mustang dyno
sure if I was doing a burn out she'd rev up, but if I pushed it that hard accelerating, I'd be hitting triple digits before I knew it
Keeping my foot out of it would basically be doing the same thing as turning down the boost, right?
ah now I'm just trying to justify keeping it at 730whp lol
BTW that was done on a "Dynopack"...never heard of that. perhaps the numbers are on the high side? Like a dynojet vs mustang dyno
03-02-2009, 08:11 PM
#16
The boost and horsepower is RPM reliant, so if you're set up and tuned properly, there's a good chance you can get away with doing it that way.
I believe the Dynopack is the one that bolts to the car like the wheel does. If it's at ECS, it's good. Those guys don't mess around.
I believe the Dynopack is the one that bolts to the car like the wheel does. If it's at ECS, it's good. Those guys don't mess around.
03-02-2009, 08:26 PM
#17
might be a stupid question, but when I had the GTO, I rarely pushed the car past 5k I think
sure if I was doing a burn out she'd rev up, but if I pushed it that hard accelerating, I'd be hitting triple digits before I knew it
Keeping my foot out of it would basically be doing the same thing as turning down the boost, right?
ah now I'm just trying to justify keeping it at 730whp lol
BTW that was done on a "Dynopack"...never heard of that. perhaps the numbers are on the high side? Like a dynojet vs mustang dyno
sure if I was doing a burn out she'd rev up, but if I pushed it that hard accelerating, I'd be hitting triple digits before I knew it
Keeping my foot out of it would basically be doing the same thing as turning down the boost, right?
ah now I'm just trying to justify keeping it at 730whp lol
BTW that was done on a "Dynopack"...never heard of that. perhaps the numbers are on the high side? Like a dynojet vs mustang dyno
03-02-2009, 08:35 PM
#18
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The boost and horsepower is RPM reliant, so if you're set up and tuned properly, there's a good chance you can get away with doing it that way.
I believe the Dynopack is the one that bolts to the car like the wheel does. If it's at ECS, it's good. Those guys don't mess around.
I believe the Dynopack is the one that bolts to the car like the wheel does. If it's at ECS, it's good. Those guys don't mess around.
03-02-2009, 08:36 PM
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If you don't have the $$ up front for the $3-4K forged rebuild then you could buy the car, put in a shift light at 5500rpm or so to give you a warning that you're risking it. Or you could lower the rev limiter to the rpm on the graph where it's making 600rwhp. When you save up the 3-4K which will be sooner than you think, you can forge the motor.
I'll just bump the rev limited down a tad, keep the meth on the car incase it still needs it.
what about 650? haha
