Turn up the boost or upgrade the turbo ?
#1
Turn up the boost or upgrade the turbo ?
I have an STS 06 GTO with the base 60-1 turbo. I made 422HP/432TQ @ 5psi. I wondering if I should turn the boost up and get it re-tuned or if I'm just wasting my time with this turbo. I would like to get to 500 rwhp. I have a meth kit running 50/50 mix.
#2
That turbo is
good up to about 10-15 lbs. Should make about 25hp per pound to the ground and spools really fast. I would say keep it and turn up the boost as long as you have the supporting mods to make it safe!
#5
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#12
As long as you have the 2.5bar OS, the cmd AFR will be boost based. The boost VE will need to be verified and the spark table will obviously need to be adjusted. @ 5.8lbs you may not be reaching the end of the table.. so if the values at the end are tapered down enough, you'd have the reduced timing that you need for the increase in boost.. However, if the AFR Spark Correction table is not well adjusted, the increase in commanded EQ ratio may end up adding more timing than you can safely run.
At $500, you could (and should) purchase HPT.. Please do this. We obviously can help with such a small change.. What you'd need is a Wbo2 with the analog signal sent to the HPT interface, properly calibrated for ground offsets (I can help). Then.. a couple dyno pulls.
Do not use a boost controller.. They are crap crap crap. I could not get a turbosmart MBC to work with my setup and the EBCs are very expensive. WG springs are cheap and very easy to install.. If you are hell bent on getting a MBC, you might as well take a thick needle and start poking holes in your vac line to the turbo - as this is equiv to what a MBC would do (don't do that, just making a point)
At $500, you could (and should) purchase HPT.. Please do this. We obviously can help with such a small change.. What you'd need is a Wbo2 with the analog signal sent to the HPT interface, properly calibrated for ground offsets (I can help). Then.. a couple dyno pulls.
Do not use a boost controller.. They are crap crap crap. I could not get a turbosmart MBC to work with my setup and the EBCs are very expensive. WG springs are cheap and very easy to install.. If you are hell bent on getting a MBC, you might as well take a thick needle and start poking holes in your vac line to the turbo - as this is equiv to what a MBC would do (don't do that, just making a point)
#14
You are in an LS2 car?? You should have never gone with that 60-1 (Not bashing you bro).... Upgrade to a 72mm or so... Spend the extra 500-1000$ and get a FMIC... retune and you will see ~600RWHP at 8-9psi.
I say 634RWHP on a 346 Stock LS1 with FMIC and 72cc stock truck heads. Safely ran it at 580RWHP... With an LS2 you could see 600-625 safely (In my opinion) with just what I mentioned above.
I say 634RWHP on a 346 Stock LS1 with FMIC and 72cc stock truck heads. Safely ran it at 580RWHP... With an LS2 you could see 600-625 safely (In my opinion) with just what I mentioned above.
#15
If it makes the boost, holds the boost, and does not produce excessive IATs... what would be the point? In my case, I probably do need a larger turbo.. but not yet.. The TBSS A4 (built up twice) would have a hissy fit on me and then die for a third time.
#19
I'll have to collect a bunch of datalogs and see what the relation to oil temp vs ambient temp vs intake air temp vs boost vs boost duration. Heh, thats a lot of stuff to compare, but you get the idea. I think the duration (of the boost) is my IAT heater.. makes sense. Like an overdriven M112 Eaton...
What fluctuations in IAT do you see @ a given boost level.
#20