Crankcase problems, blowing out dipstick
I wasn't trying to step on any toes, just letting him know how I fixed the similar problem. I don't really see how what I said is an opinion, the fact is that my blow by is non existent now with the cans. My oil is clean, even with over 80k miles on it.
No prob, I wasn't questioning that you solved the oil in the turbo issue, just pointing out that damage will occur over time w/out proper crankcase evac. Engine life will be reduced. Both can be solved with the right system setup.
I am going to keep the PCV setup I have know (pulling from the valley) with the air/oil seperator to the suckside of the blower. This will pull crankcase pressure much like a vaccum pump. As engine rpm increases so does the pull from the blower.
On the passenger side valvecover I plan to just vent it with a Valvecover breather. This will let the crankcase vent at low rpms levels and it will introduce a fresh air source as well?
This way I can introduce a fresh air source and pull out crankcase pressure.
The car is on a Mail order tune from Ed Wright and I figure by adding the valvecover breather will introduce a very small amount of vaccumm, but I hear that can be fixed with a tune on a MAF car.
The question is what valvecover breather do people go with? I almost feel like I can go to the local parts store and get one to work.
Earl's makes this unit and it looks LEAK FREE, http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thought about running a line (for example a 6an) from the valvecover to a vented catchcan, but I didn't know if that could introduce a fresh air source like the valvecover breather? Plus as long as the vavlecover breather doens't leak I don't see why the vented catchcan is needed?
Thanks for reading, Ben
I initially had a checkvalve installed, but the air/oil seperator was not getting anything in it?? I took it off and immediatly it seen condensation.
This is how it was setup
Intake valley--checkvalve--air/oil seperator--blower suckside.
I took the checkvalve out and it seemed to work better, but do I need a checkvalve installed???
third choice is 1 breather on each rocker cover dash 10 on each to vented catch cans and 2 dash 8 breathers on the valley cover to the catch can aswell. Have to let it breath or it will out your seals. BTW have no baffles in the rocker covers,
My engine is fairly new and i noticed the rear main is leaking i replaced it only 3000kms ago and its seaping again. The factory pcv system doesnt allow enough flow to scavenge blowby effectively,
For a breather system best i have seen is a dash 10 fitting in the sump above oil level that is connected to a vented breather tank up top, so effectively it relieves pressure at the source. Having breathers in the rocker covers generally isnt as effective as the sump or valley cover as oil is draining back down the galleries which restricts flow from the crankcase. hence a sump breather(like factory jap cars) and valley cover breather to encourage relief from the source. other wise I would go pan evacs
My STS kit on my LT1 did the same thing - I took the PCV port off the pass side valve cover, plugged the TB end, and put a mini K&N in the vavle cover. On the Driver's side, I installed a second pass side valve cover and put a second mini-K&N there too - problem solved!

This is what I have currently for crankcase evac
-10 line from the lifter valley to an air/oil seperator to the suckside of the Blower.
I did have a checkvalve installed and when I took the checkvalve out it seemed to help since I started to see build up in the air/oil seperator. It still blowing the dipstick, just not nearly as bad.
What should I do, to help with the crankcase pressure???
Thanks, Ben


