Minor adjustments of what?

Don't fly without telling us.

 

He'll probably have to ask his tuner.

 

There were several things we changed , new crank sensor , heat shields on coils,smaller gap on plugs, insulating the spark leads ,earthing the engine more,re ajusting the afr , minor things but a pain to resolve after many runs .Here is the graph. Im very pleased with the outcome , the power is enough for my weekender

 

Good gosh! Better be enough for a weekender! Very nice. Glad you got it all worked out.

 

What is earthing the engine more? I have never heard that before.

Congrats on your setup.

 

Grounding.

 

The Jap cars seem very fond of earthing the crap out of theirs. Using large diameter cable, earthing various points on head and block, all linking back to a single point either on battery orchassis ( or I guess a similar solid earth point if battery is located in the trunk.
Similar in style to a shielding cable....all earths run to one location, to help reduce any interference.

My battery is in the trunk and grounded there to the chassis, but also with a cable running to the front, which then links to the engine block, chassis, ecu, and coils+heads

All interlinked with decent sized cable ( not sure what awg it is...but capable of circa 40-50A, 6.0mm^2 )


Nice results Tony...also interesting to see that running leaner on the AFR's doesnt seem to gain much in power.
Might be interesting to try in the 10's also ?

 

I wonder what the dip is above 5700 rpm.

 

hey can someone talk about this 16V thing more? when do you get to this point? and what will it do to all the gauges and fuel pump and ****? does all that need changed to hold the volt load?

 

power dip at 5700? Maybe wheelspin at top of peak torque. Did you increase your dwell. I run TR6 with my T trim setup run .35thou gaps and 3.8ms dwell time up top.

Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer.

Awesome power dude on a digital Dyno Dynamics to well done. Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer. Is it MAF or SD 3 bar?

 

It could be wheel spin

 

3bar .It has taken several days in getting this far , we can still i think get a little more but my original goal was for 1000 im happy with this outcome . this is a street car if it was a drag car it would be set up differently like twin turbos and custom manifold and so on

 

Hi steve , one thing we did do was run an earth from the engine to the battery in the boot which could of fixed my prob.

 

Grounding your batter to the block is very important on EFI car's. If not the EFI computer will try to find a ground through other source's and usually cause's the computer not to work properly.

 

how meny cui is this engine?

 

Plus 1, Agreed need to know after reading thread.

 

Sounds like this was more of a grounding issue.

 

We did play with the dwell settings, we also had better results with the tighter plug gap and an 8 ngk heat range non projected.we are going to 16 tho, which is indicating something with spark, seems to shop best results

 

Are you using NGK racing plugs, or just cheapy ones ?

 

we have tried allsorts that ngk have to offer but best results are the ngk b8efs which is non projected but no v grove. i think it does not matter , as long as you can read your plugs and selecting the best heat rating is the important part.