I am a diy guy and might want to try my own diy turbo project. What is the cheapest anyone has done this? I figure mixing and matching, getting preowned parts, and diy work can get this done fairly cheap.

Say to make about 600 rwhp.

Assume I already have valvetrain, fueling, tuning, drivetrain, etc. all taken care of.

 

i would say about 4000$, but i have sunk much more than that.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ld-w-pics.html

check out that thread...very little money put into it and bottom 10's on stock everything.

Chad

 

^^He's using 15lbs of boost. So there is no telling how long that thing is going to last. But I bet it's a blast to drive! He said it's just a introductory motor just to get him used to the tuning before he throws in a high dollar motor.

 

yes I know...16lb's actually which is nuts on the stock block.

still he was asking about the turbo build itself...I think that's a great representation of what a diy turbo setup can be...

Chad

 

True

 

I can't wait till he throws the big daddy motor in it and leans on it...

Chad

 

It's goin to be haulin ***, hopefully he doesn't drink a RedBull before

 

i would say between 3-4k. i i have about 3000 in mine but i still need a turbo k member. if i wasnt keeping the ac i would say closer to 3k. i did buy a bunch a used parts. i did buy a 1000 dollar turbonetics turbo though. if you bought a master power turbo and aot of used stuff and used truck manifolds i am sure you can do it for 3k or less!!!

 

I'm into mine for around $900. We built our own log manifold out of stainless, and have done all the other fab work. Mine is a definite budget build

$250 ebay turbo
$80 ebay intercooler
$50 ebay WG
$30 ebay BOV
$300 worth of 2.5"/3" stainless/mild piping
$40 header flange
$100 misc fittings for oil feed/drains
$50 clamps and couplers

Then misc stuff
$200 wideband with guage
$80 boost gauge
$75 2bar map sensor

By the time its all said and done prolly $1500-2000

 

I don't agree with the ebay turbo, wastegate, or bov. These parts should be purchased from reputable companies. Failure of these parts can destroy you motor.

 

Alright...
i am not going to be the only one to tell you this but, DO NOT USE A EBAY TURBO!!!! you will regret it. Atleast spend the money on a MP70. Also go with a good wastegate & BOV.
I have abut $4000 invested and i went with the ebay hot parts, But everything else I have bought is great stuff.
here is a link to the build.
http://www.kyhorsepower.com/forums1/...howtopic=37591

 

This will be the third one we've used. One with 10,000+ miles and still makin 10+lbs. Its just somethin to play with on a budget. I'm well aware it nowhere near optimal

 

Agree on lots of above.
Master power turbos seem not bad for cheap. Knock off or crappy wastegate is not a good idea can easly cost an engine. Blow offs that don't work can cost a turbo.
Brand names like genuine tial or turbomsmart are good idea here.
You can fab up cold side pretty easily .Some guys do ok on cheap intercoolers. Some leak and drive you crazy or don't cool well and don't do their job . I use quailty intercoolers but thats me.
You need decent silicone couplers and clamps or again you will have constant connectors blowing off and boost leaks.
You can fab hot side piping use the truck manifolds, etc. You can buy some of that fairly cheap off ebay wherever. Not that you can't get good stuff off ebay you can but the junk is out there too. Cheap hotside piping might crack with turbo weight on it, leak,etc.Cheap coldside is less critical but you still want beaded pipes,pipes than can take boost, etc.

Engine you can go pretty cheap but at 600rwhp you need to spend money on engine or you won't be driving car much.
500rwhp easier to stay at stock power.
For cheap 6.0 engines are hard to beat. You can push stock cranks way higher than 600rwhp just put in forged pistons and might as well good forged rods.
Heads 317 for cheap can let you run a bit higher boost do to lowering compression. But general guide and of course it depends on turbo how much power it makes at what bost level but generally say 5 to 7psi with typical smaller sized single or twins and maybe 8 to 10 max if you take down compression with 317 heads. Stay convservative on timing and afr. Wouldn't run much past 12 degrees max and much past 11 to 1 afr.

Stock pistons are fragile. Any tuning mistake and its bye bye ringlands.I can show pics of buddies cars. I went straight to forged motor on my 99.

Single fuel pump might get you to 600rwhp but at that level a twin intank like my lonnies setup is best. Past 600rwhp then good idea to get full setup ..big lines, boost referenced reg, big rails..good filter.
60 pound injectors can get you by up to closer to 800rwhp.And you can get 80s now in high impedence.

Tuning get it tuned or buy hptuners it works good for boost.And yeah good idea to have some sort of boost gauge and wideband. boost controller you can get buy with simple manual but again something that is reasonable quality is good idea.And if it can be locked at proper setting better yet.

Good luck. Cheap and FI don't go together very well.
At 600rwhp you also can't run stock 4l60 that has to be upgraded. You obviously need better clutch and rear end if you are going to track it. Stock rear can survive quite awhile sometimes behind auto. drivshaft not sure at 600rwhp seen them break with a lot less.

We have local guy with third gen. Master power turbo, jgs?? wastegate and blow offs
ebay hotside ,not sure if he has intercooler. He has forged up motor. Stock rear end and trans . Self tuned. Basic fuel system.He is running low 11s at 126 mph last year on et street radials. This year so far has mid 11s at lower mph.Not sure whats up but he almost did 10s last year. I was impressed with what hes spent.It can be done pretty reasonable but still at least 2000 to 3000 is more reasonable for just the turbo setup.
4000 to 5000 once you start doing fuel, quality parts,tuning,etc.I have way way more than that into my build. Its obviously not budget build.But hopefully have not very many weak links.

 

Any part whether name brand or not can fail, costing you your motor...only difference is you would be way more pissed off than me when your $1100 turbo get trashed because your $200 BOV failed or your $3000 forged motor is trahsed because your $500 WG failed. If my cheap stuff let's go, I'll go buy another cheap junkyard 5.3 and more cheap ebay stuff and chance it again

 

Well if you do you own work and don't have to pay labor and can afford your car down while you fix stuff then cheap is fine. Its much harder to hurt a good forged up motor. Factory pistons are absolute garbage and any tuning mistake and its over for them.
Factory rear ends are glass behind a six speed with good tires like et streets. Factory 4l60 trans are weak stock and not good for much past 400rwhp.
Factory cluthes are weak.

I guess its all in what you want to do. Is much more unlikely for my expensive brand name gate to overboost and my forged motor is much more likely to survive Beads piping keeps the couplers from blowing off under boost,good intercooler fits nice and keeps the inlet temps down and is efficient, blow off that works protect the turbos.

Cheap, fast, reliable what the saying..
Other rule is weak link usually breaks first. FI likes to break things. Have couple of buddies factory pistons in garage to remind me of how crappy the factory pistons are under boost. Be conservative and they can live a bit. But how many people are conservative when more power is just a twist of the dial away! LOL

 

Stock block is good for over 1000hp. You must mean stock rods and pistons...

I did a budget build also.. LOL.. over 10k..

I ran stock rear end, with 315.. 555r and never had an issue at all..

 

forgot to add the word LONG* into that.

hes running a stock long block sans pushrods.

Chad

 

I thought mine was going to be cheap too. I don't want to think about how much I spent. It's the little stuff the costs you.

 

dont use ebay turbos or wastegates. this is what i have in mine, and expecting 650 thru a th400, prolly 750ish thru a m6. goin to the dyno in a few weeks


s400, great turbo! 500
ebay intercooler and aluminum piping 250
tial bov 200
tial wastegate 200
hotside logs, cross over, flanges oil lines 200 (everything built by me)
exhaust is just an open 5" dp 60
exhaust wrap, vacuum lines fittings, misc 150

so bout 1500, and lookin to go 9's! this is an ltx car also.

and if your SURE 600 is all you will want i would prolly go with a mp 70. it prolly get to 600 thru a m6