james562

iTrader: (35)

this guys obviously has a hard on for the sts kit so im just going to let it be.

theres nothing wrong with rearmounts but the sts kit is a mega rip off for the crap you get

F-BodyGuy98

i learned this the hard way, i didnt fully look into what else was available when i bought mine

james562

iTrader: (35)

looks like you might have a buyer for your kit in this thread...

F-BodyGuy98

haha...you have any idea for a price? cuz i dont!

Blownhotrodder

Which front mount doesnt require hacking or ac delete to get it to fit. Thats the only thing about the sts that I like. I dont know if I can run the sts anyway because the car is really low.

F-BodyGuy98

even though some in here bash APS, they are one of them, and the KYTP set up keeps it also, even with the new STS set ups you have to do a little cutting of the front bumper to get the intercooler to fit from my understanding...im guessing the car is your DD and thats why you want to keep the A/C?

Blownhotrodder

No not a DD, its a low mileage SS that I dont want to hack up. If I wanted to do all that stuff id buy a v6 rs and build it up with no worries. I had a mustang that got out of hand and ended up not really being able to drive it on the street and enjoy it. Im not gonna do that again.

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

get a 408 and leave it na. plenty of power to be had there. i personally like how the f body was engineered. hard to work on, but more rewarding at the end.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

always seems to take twice as much turbo power as it does n/a, or n2oed, or supercharged, to get the same track times.

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I think that is because most people over turbo cars to get big dyno numbers that do little for performance. My GN made 540/620 and ran high 10.70's on DR's with only 1.6-1.7 60' times due to lack of traction and the car weighed 3700 with me in it. It had a TE-67 turbo and made 585 ft-lbs of torque at only 3500 rpms but most guys want to skip the smaller turbos and go right to 76's or bigger to get the 800rwhp numbers but the power under the curve suffers due to spool up time. A 70mm turbo is easily capable of pushing a 3400 pound car into the 9's but everyone wants bigger.

I don't think there is anything wrong with a rear mount turbo set up if properly set up but I do think you could build your own much cheaper than one of the rear mount kits. Below are some pics of Randy Westmoreland's Outlaw 10.5 Demon. It had front mounted twin 91's a couple of years ago but he changed the set up and went to rear mounted 91's(the same turbos) and the car went faster. I am not trying to say that rears work better because I think weight distribution made much of the difference but having them rear mounted definately did not hurt performance either. You can see the air intakes in the trunk lid. The car has been 4.40's in the 1/8.

Blownhotrodder

I tend to agree with you. Alot of the outlaw guys are now running turbos mounted in the rear and im sure if it didnt work good they wouldnt do it.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

So what's the most effective turbo size and setup to make a stock engined ls1 the fastest in the 1/4? I don't care about hp or tq numbers. I only care about speed.

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I think that will depend on how fast you realistically want to go. Your best bet is to talk to some turbo manufacturers and tell them what you are looking for and what your set up will be and let them recommend a turbo that will fit your needs. I have used Limit Engineering in AZ for about 16 years and they have always treated me well and they have good prices. A small shaft TE-67 will put a full wieght car in the 10's with trap speeds close to 130 and will only run around $750 new.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

if you're talking about on a stock or bolton ls1, you're shitting me... keep talking

but the more boost you run the shorter the engines life right? I bet that te67 would be pretty high up on the boost right?

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

As good as the heads flow on a LS motor I doubt a TE-67 would be able to make very high boost before it maxed out. Boost doesn't have much to do with engine life unless you get into detonation which is in the tune. The motor has no idea how much boost you are running--all it knows is that there is a certain amount of air and certain amount of fuel and it combusts and makes cylinder pressure. Increased cylinder pressure equals more horsepower which is what shortens engine life. Look up the numbers on a TE-67--it will support 700hp--do you really want more than that on a stock bottom end LS1? I see guys running 10's on PT-88 and other similar turbos that are capable of putting cars in the 7's! A turbo is most efficent when it is being utilized almost to the point of its max capacity. The link below is to a 3450 pound GN with stock susp., on DR's with a PT-88 turbo with a T4 flange running 7.97 @175mph yet most guys that are trying to go fast skip a T4 flanged turbo because it is considered too small and go straight to a T6 flange.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHQ-VqwJkIs

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

what are these flanges you're talking about?

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I am not familiar with all of the different LSx kits available but I am sure that most kits use a T4 flanged turbo unless they are a max effort race type kit. T4 flanges are the most common size on larger displacement turbo applications. Some of the 4 cylinder cars use T3 flanges and the Turbo Buicks use an odd 3 bolt set up that is slightly smaller than a T4.

One thing I should have included in my post above is that while higher boost has no direct effect on engine stress higher boost does heat the air more which makes the tune even more important to prevent detonation. Detonation is the quickest way to kill a FI motor. Forged parts are no match for excessive detonation.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

***** too complicated lol ALL MOTOR F.T.W.


I'd love to learn about turboes but there has to be a more simple way. I do actually like a little bit of turbo lag too I like how in first gear you can have enough power damn near all motor and by 2nd gear have enough power to keep moving and keep traction and 3rd be pushing insane power and keep trac...etc

I see t.lag as an opportunity to keep traction lol but if I could design my own setup to be perfect like that I'm sure it'd be super complicated.

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

For all the sts bashers Im with u for the most part. But sts did more r&d and just did what they guys who bought the kit did and sold it. Its a dam fun base kit and you can get decent power and times. But the fact you have to do alittle more to get the thing to 1/4 well than a front mount. I thought about selling my kit but its so customize its pointless on another f-boat. But rearmounts have come along way. I love what lmr did with jareds car lg4u but it just shows you put alittle work in somthing and it will go fast. I like the bashers I come across and I completly destroy them from a dig or roll. So fun factor is a 7 imho but my new front mount will be a 10 because Im going stupid with it.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

I'd like to see your car and info please