Blew stock 346 with STS need help where to go from here? 383? 402?
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Blew stock 346 with STS need help where to go from here? 383? 402?
Well I have the engine out cylinder 8 is fried. I have an 01 WS6 with STS t67 fmic. I have $3000 to 3500 max to spend on build. What is the best way to go for almost daily driver wanting to run 10-12#'s boost. Also whats safe boost and hp on applications advised? Should I go forged 383 or 402? Any help from sponsers would be appreciated as Im looking to buy and move forward this week so I can install and have it tuned..
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Well I have the engine out cylinder 8 is fried. I have an 01 WS6 with STS t67 fmic. I have $3000 to 3500 max to spend on build. What is the best way to go for almost daily driver wanting to run 10-12#'s boost. Also whats safe boost and hp on applications advised? Should I go forged 383 or 402? Any help from sponsers would be appreciated as Im looking to buy and move forward this week so I can install and have it tuned..
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oh wow, a little off topic but do you mind tellin me how many lbs of boost you were running when your engine blew?
I just picked up the exact STS kit, and im bone stock
thanks
I just picked up the exact STS kit, and im bone stock
thanks
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Its always a gauntlet on stock motors. Safe tunes and they still can let go 5 psi they still can let go. **** breaks my stock ls6 went at 30k miles and 8 psi on a good tune. I still think a injector lock up but Im not sure #5,8 pistons check out. But it is safe to say the psi from most people run is 8 psi 10 is pushing it. Intercooler is a must and a good fuel system.
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Good to know, im planning on running about 6lbs of boost, intercooled, 42lb injectors and racetronix fuel pump with professional tune, i got about 30k miles on my stock LS1 but after hearing that i will be crossin my fingers it holds up.
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If you use the stock STS tuning (ie, Nelson), your motor is on borrowed time at 5#'s. If you do a real tune, 10-12 #'s won't be a problem. The ls1 hard parts are extremely overbuilt from the factory. Unfortunately, the most overbuilt parts in the world will still crumble under repeated detonation. Ringlands go first, then the rest of the pistons, then head gaskets, then bearings and rods. At some point in between the plugs melt. A "perfect" tune can take all the other parts to rod or head gasket failure.
#14
Well, I'll be the black sheep and disagree with rebuilding the stock 346. My STS 347 recently gave out on me at 8 lbs with a good tune. After shopping around for a forged rebuild, I made the conclusion that it would be more cost effective (at least in my case) to go with a fully built iron short block from one of the vendors. I picked up a new fully built 370 iron block and some low mileage 317 heads off an '06 truck for just under $3.2K total. I can still make a few hundred bucks off of my 347 aluminum long block. I'm currently in the middle of the swap. If you must have an aluminum block, go 347 or 383. If you want to spend the same amount and have a bigger bore iron block 370 and still have a LS1 block to sell, talk to a vendor. So far, I have no regrets abandoning the aluminum block for the iron block. Regardless of your selection, best of luck to you on your build.
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Or... end up like me... $50k later... two different setups... three shops... and just now happy with my setup!