Head studs, Hex nut vs 12 point nut input wanted
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From: Alexandria La.
Head studs, Hex nut vs 12 point nut input wanted I'm getting ready to order my stuff to put m 317's on and wanted to know what the difference in the hex nuts & 12 points other than the socket need to tighten them?
Also, I wanted to know if I need moly lube on the block end or head end?
If lock tight, red or blue? And lastly when threading the stud into the block does it go in hand tight or torqued to a specific amount?
Also, I wanted to know if I need moly lube on the block end or head end?
If lock tight, red or blue? And lastly when threading the stud into the block does it go in hand tight or torqued to a specific amount?
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
They say that with the 12 point studs, you get more contact area from the socket, but in my experience, the 12 points are entirely way too easy to strip inadvertantly. Even when you are being extra careful. If I ever have to buy new studs again, I'm goin for 6 point.
No lube needed on the end you thread into the block, just get them hand tight, then take an allen wrench to them all and make sure they are all seated against the bottom of the hole. No need to torque them super tight or anything, just all by hand with the allen wrench. Do NOT use loctite on the threads going into the block. I did that on my last engine, and they were a BITCH to get out! Its also not recommended (now I know why!)
You only use the ARP lube on the top threads of the studs and inside the nuts for good measure.
No lube needed on the end you thread into the block, just get them hand tight, then take an allen wrench to them all and make sure they are all seated against the bottom of the hole. No need to torque them super tight or anything, just all by hand with the allen wrench. Do NOT use loctite on the threads going into the block. I did that on my last engine, and they were a BITCH to get out! Its also not recommended (now I know why!)
You only use the ARP lube on the top threads of the studs and inside the nuts for good measure.
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From: Alexandria La.
They say that with the 12 point studs, you get more contact area from the socket, but in my experience, the 12 points are entirely way too easy to strip inadvertantly. Even when you are being extra careful. If I ever have to buy new studs again, I'm goin for 6 point.
No lube needed on the end you thread into the block, just get them hand tight, then take an allen wrench to them all and make sure they are all seated against the bottom of the hole. No need to torque them super tight or anything, just all by hand with the allen wrench. Do NOT use loctite on the threads going into the block. I did that on my last engine, and they were a BITCH to get out! Its also not recommended (now I know why!)
You only use the ARP lube on the top threads of the studs and inside the nuts for good measure.
No lube needed on the end you thread into the block, just get them hand tight, then take an allen wrench to them all and make sure they are all seated against the bottom of the hole. No need to torque them super tight or anything, just all by hand with the allen wrench. Do NOT use loctite on the threads going into the block. I did that on my last engine, and they were a BITCH to get out! Its also not recommended (now I know why!)
You only use the ARP lube on the top threads of the studs and inside the nuts for good measure.
1 last question, do the studs come with the lube or do I have to buy that seprate?
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
Ive bought a couple sets new. One came with a small sample pack that was just enough to do one install, and the other didnt come with any at all. I guess its just hit and miss with ARP. I'd go ahead and just purchase a tube of it though when you order the studs. The $5 tube goes a LONG way. I've lost count of head installs ive done with that tube o' lube I got a couple years ago 
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From: Alexandria La.
Ive bought a couple sets new. One came with a small sample pack that was just enough to do one install, and the other didnt come with any at all. I guess its just hit and miss with ARP. I'd go ahead and just purchase a tube of it though when you order the studs. The $5 tube goes a LONG way. I've lost count of head installs ive done with that tube o' lube I got a couple years ago
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From: Alexandria La.
So in short, lubricate ALL of the possible friction points.
