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Head stud question.

Old Aug 30, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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Default Head stud question.

I put them in today, read the directions from ARP and they dont say which way the bevel on the washers go, I would assume down. Am I right?

Also, on the MLS gaskets I assume they are different than the stock graphite gaskets in the way they go on the motor. I mean that the graphite say to put "this side up" and the MLS can go either way as long as you put the label "front" to the front.
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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The chamfer face of the washer faces UP (should be contacting the nut) that puts the most surface area of the washer on the head..
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 08:09 AM
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I'll be putting mine on next week, how much trouble did you have doing them? And did you do it with the engine in the car? What technique did you use, ppl have told me to put the studs all the way in back it out a 1/4 of a turn then torque the nut on top? Sorry for the Hijack .. figured it was the same topic..
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ChevyChad
The chamfer face of the washer faces UP (should be contacting the nut) that puts the most surface area of the washer on the head..
Thanks, so your saying that with the washer on the head you should be able to see the bevel? Why does ARP not specify this in the directions?
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Super Slow SS
I'll be putting mine on next week, how much trouble did you have doing them? And did you do it with the engine in the car? What technique did you use, ppl have told me to put the studs all the way in back it out a 1/4 of a turn then torque the nut on top? Sorry for the Hijack .. figured it was the same topic..
Everything is pretty easy, the important part is making sure the threads in the block are clean and dry. IMO the worst and most time consuming part is cleaning & drying the threads. I found some info on another site on how to make a thread chaser out of one of the old torque to yeild bolts, it worked pretty good.

Oh and they studs go in hand tight (as per ARP's instructions), Ive never heard anything about backing them out a 1/4 turn.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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Alright, thanks for the info I guess I'll read the instructions with my studs (should be here today) First studs I haven't torqued down just seemed odd to me.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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same here never heard about backing out 1/4 turn. most make them hand tight some do hand tight plus a very small amount with a allen key.

For the washers i dont think it matters which way they go on. Ive seen the installed both ways, For my engine i did install them up cause i feel better with the larger area on alum
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BigRich954RR
same here never heard about backing out 1/4 turn. most make them hand tight some do hand tight plus a very small amount with a allen key.

For the washers i dont think it matters which way they go on. Ive seen the installed both ways, For my engine i did install them up cause i feel better with the larger area on alum
This is what i did.... worked out fine.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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The chamfer side is supposed to contact the nut on the head stud...its supposed to eliminate any stress risers that could be present...metal burrs and those types of things that could be imposed on the nut and cause the nut fail. So with the chamfer up you are guaranteed that the nut is only contacting the flat part of the washer and not the edged of the hole. Make sense?
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by squealingtires
The chamfer side is supposed to contact the nut on the head stud...its supposed to eliminate any stress risers that could be present...metal burrs and those types of things that could be imposed on the nut and cause the nut fail. So with the chamfer up you are guaranteed that the nut is only contacting the flat part of the washer and not the edged of the hole. Make sense?

Yes. Thanks, that makes good sense.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by squealingtires
The chamfer side is supposed to contact the nut on the head stud...its supposed to eliminate any stress risers that could be present...metal burrs and those types of things that could be imposed on the nut and cause the nut fail. So with the chamfer up you are guaranteed that the nut is only contacting the flat part of the washer and not the edged of the hole. Make sense?
Im just wondering where did you hear that at ?
The chamfer has a edge to just in a different spot. Plus we are putting more load on a smaller area of the nut should stress the nut more? how would a metal burrs cause a nut to fail its a non moving part ?


Just a guess here im thinking the chamfer is to keep from causing any loading on the bottom threads of the nut so they wont dig into the stud but i have no hard data to back this up.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BigRich954RR
Im just wondering where did you hear that at ?
The chamfer has a edge to just in a different spot. Plus we are putting more load on a smaller area of the nut should stress the nut more? how would a metal burrs cause a nut to fail its a non moving part ?


Just a guess here im thinking the chamfer is to keep from causing any loading on the bottom threads of the nut so they wont dig into the stud but i have no hard data to back this up.
I called the folks at ARP. You are right about there still being and edge, but is the machined side (chamfer feature)--I think the hole gets punched out which might leave some irregularity on the non-chamfered side which if placed on the soft aluminum heads wouldn't matter as much as if placed against the nut.
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