402 LS2 worth the extra $ over 383 LS1?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
402 LS2 worth the extra $ over 383 LS1? Guys I would really welcome your thoughts on this. I need to build myself a forged bottom end. This is for a Vortech blower up to 15psi of boost. I have been toying between a 383 or LS2 402 (I would rather a aluminum block). What I really want to know is what advantages there are in my paying the extra for the LS2 402 + LS1-LS2 conversion kit over an LS1 based 383.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Ive thought about this too...
I guess once you come into boost it really doesent matter. Ive noticed with boost, other things make little difference like cam, intake, C.I., heads,... I would do a 383 LS1 block.
I guess once you come into boost it really doesent matter. Ive noticed with boost, other things make little difference like cam, intake, C.I., heads,... I would do a 383 LS1 block.
A 383 LS1 and a 408 LQ4/9 would cost roughly the same and the 4.0XX Bore of the 402/408 will open up alot better head selections and make more power/torque over the 383 all throughout the rpm range.
Point being that on a street driven FI car where budget is a concern, the difference in head choice between a 3.9" bore and a 4" bore wouldn't be much of a concern. If the OP is going to be entering a class and heads up racing his car then head choice is important but on a non max effort car I would think some AFR 205's, TFS 215's, or even cnc 317's would be more than enough to support what the OP is looking for.
I think the head choice is more important when you are building a N/A engine or building an all out race engine.
Any opinions on this.
You're better off with 402/LS2 if budget allows, a 383/LS1 on 15lbs of boost would be pushing those thinner cylinder walls closer to it's limits. There's a reason why you don't see alot of guys here going 383 on LS1's for forced induction application.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
Lastly, I assume with the correct conversion kit the LS2 into LS1 swap is relatively painless?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
At least with a base LS2 block...there is room for repair or to grow a little. And the LS2 block is the better platform.
The extra cubes arent really needed, but will certainly do no harm to have them as well.
And I think I'd be right in saying that the LS2 platform now, would offer more plentiful parts as the LS1/6 gets older ?
That said...if you already had an LS1/6 block with a good standard bore and budget was tight. Maybe I would stick with my existing block, and bore size, and do a 382. That would still leave a little room for error.
I preffer less stroke and more bore. I would never build a 383. You can build a forged LS2 370ci with a stock crank for the same amount and it would hold up WAY better than your other 2 options. Plus open the door for all the premium head options.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Length of stud is not an issue. Securing a stud at the top of the block deck however, is an issue. Thats why GM tried to get most of the studs down to the base of the cylinder, so less cylinder distortion would occur when they are tightened.
long studs secured at the base of the block is the best way.
long studs secured at the base of the block is the best way.
10 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 2
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Length of stud is not an issue. Securing a stud at the top of the block deck however, is an issue. Thats why GM tried to get most of the studs down to the base of the cylinder, so less cylinder distortion would occur when they are tightened.
long studs secured at the base of the block is the best way.
long studs secured at the base of the block is the best way.
I like the LS2 blocks better than the LS1's, LS3/L92's 6.2's better than both. A good choice if starting from scratch. Although if you have an LS1, I'd use it, been plenty that hauled the mail.
A short stroke 370 'iron' isn't bad either if you don't mind the weight on the nose.
Bigger bores are better no question, but with boost it is somewhat of a moot point at a 'street' level. All out race, different story all together.
As mentioned a 346" with AFR 205s or TFS 215s and 12-15# would probably do 700-750RWHP no problem.
Spend the money on good thick deck heads and the supercharger set-up.
A short stroke 370 'iron' isn't bad either if you don't mind the weight on the nose.
Bigger bores are better no question, but with boost it is somewhat of a moot point at a 'street' level. All out race, different story all together.
As mentioned a 346" with AFR 205s or TFS 215s and 12-15# would probably do 700-750RWHP no problem.
Spend the money on good thick deck heads and the supercharger set-up.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
As far as lifting heads I feel a shorter stud would be a better way to go because it would be less susceptible to a stud flexing and would do a better job at holding the head in place. For that reason and probably others it is probably why they made that change to the later blocks. As far as I have seen on the all out builds the LS2's are able to outperform the LS1's, ie Koehler, Fireball, Brown etc.